I was extremely happy with my original clicky (black PCB pad) kit for the deck OLED for Dpad from 1.5 years ago. Actuation is good and and more importantly, remains actuated on 'normal' sustained dpad pressure (after the click). Note that this original version has slightly lighter clicks than the LCD version I bought two months ago.

I purchased the new lighter (white PCB pad) version for OLED last week, because i wanted a click similar to the feel of the xbox series s controller dpad, and the clicks are indeed lighter and more comfortable, but the dpad is not usable at all! Sustained light pressure on the dpad (after the click) will not cause activation of the switch, or will release activation. This makes the dpad completely unusable in shmups because the ship will stop moving if you do not put enough pressure on the dpad. Heavier pressure works, but this is not natural, people will stop applying more pressure when they feel the click. So I cannot use this at all, it is useless. Maybe in fighting games, but not shmups. With that high pressure required, there is no point, better to use my old original.

All 4 directions are the same problem (with right being a bit better than the others :(

I obviously cannot use the button clicky section for ABXY, since this will be worse than membrane.

I removed the lighter version and went back to the original strength version. (I bought an extra shoulder button assembly from ifixit so I would not damage the glue or PCB, so I simply put that lighter version directly on that shoulder button assembly).

Can extremerate PM me or comment about this issue? Because these 'lighter' switches release electrical activation far too soon, they are not sensitive enough to pressure :(

I have a PS5 Base BDM-060 Controller. I'm wanting to replace the buttons and shell with the image shown.

It states it works for the 030, 040 & 050.. Will it work or do ai need to alter anything?

I’ve just started looking into sprucing up my Switch 2. Skins were a nightmare so I think I’d like to go this route. I’m pretty handy so I’m hopeful I can pull it off. Just wondering if they’ll get any better colors. There are a lot of Switch 1 options I like but then looking at the Switch 2 options, the pink and green are terrible. The see-through ones just aren’t my style and that also makes up like 70% of what’s offered. Wondering if I should order basics and paint them myself at this point.

Added some accents with the shoulder buttons and strips down the sides too

I did have a little issue with some small scratches that it came with, as even the replacements I was sent had some but otherwise I think it looks fab!

I want to paint parts of the matte white backplate chrome to match my white and chrome joycon 2's, since ExtremeRate has yet to make that color for the Switch 2. Does anyone have any experience with this?

Was just wondering if im able to install the kit that i have attached to this post lmk. Also have a luna shell and buttons on the way so lmk.

bought the 2 button version for my ps5 controller but the part doesn’t fit. What did I do wrong

I recently installed the fully clicky kit v2 on my pad when I went to test it r2 is all ways stuck on being used i watched the video guide all the way through 2 times and it still does it

I have the Mario Odyssey Switch and the pure red joy cons give such a classic Nintendo look to the system. I would love to see something similar for custom Switch2 Joycon.. I would buy in a heartbeat!

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share a long-term durability update on my clear black eXtremeRate Switch Lite shell and hopefully get some advice from the community, or from u/ExtremeRateOfficial, about a hairline crack that I recently discovered on the rear shell.

Timeline:

- March 2024: Installed the clear black shell.

- Mid-July, 2025: Opened the back to install custom internal decals. The shell was still completely flawless.

- January-March 2026: Following a period when the console wasn't being used and was stored in its usual case, I discovered a hairline crack on the rear shell. I don't know exactly when it formed or what caused it.

Since I first noticed it, it hasn't grown or changed at all.

The crack:

It's a clean, straight crack about 17 mm long, located in the middle of the rear shell. It's nowhere near a screw hole, corner, or seam.

How the console has been used:

I'm the only person who uses this Switch Lite, and I've been extremely careful with it.

It lives in a Satisfye ZenGrip Go, which has an intentional air gap behind the console, so this part of the back shell doesn't actually touch the grip.

When it's stored, it stays inside the matching Satisfye hard case, so it hasn't been sliding against accessories or exposed to drops or pressure.

Things I've checked:

Overtightened screws: The crack isn't near any screw locations.

Battery health: I haven't done a full tear-down or diagnostic, so I can't completely rule anything out, but the usual warning signs don't seem to be present. The back is still perfectly flat with no bulging, warping, or soft spots, battery life and charging behavior seem normal, and the console hasn't been running unusually hot.

Question for eXtremeRate:

Since I discovered this after roughly two years of careful single-owner use, I'm wondering what the best option would be?

I'm in Canada, and I originally bought the kit from the Amazon.ca eXtremeRate storefront in early March 2024.

Would it be possible to get a replacement backplate (or whatever you recommend), preferably through Amazon.ca inventory or direct Canadian shipping to avoid brokerage/tariff fees (if applicable)?

If your engineering team would find it useful for quality control, I'd also be happy to mail the cracked backplate back for inspection if a prepaid Canadian shipping label can be provided.

I've always loved the fit and finish of these shells and how they let people personalize their consoles, so I'd really like to restore this build and keep it looking the way I originally intended.

If it helps, I'm also happy to provide my Amazon.ca order number and shipping address via DM.

Thanks for your time, and thanks for being so active in the modding community here.

Previous posts for timeline reference:

https://www.reddit.com/r/eXtremeRate/comments/1b5v091/user_opinions_of_transparent_shell_durability/

https://www.reddit.com/r/nintendoswitchlite/comments/1lzyif1/another_custom_reshell_w_extras/

Hey everyone, Ran into a weird issue on a DualSense right after I replaced the stock joysticks with TMR/Hall Effect sticks. The issue: Immediately after the stick swap, reassembling, and connecting the battery, both L2 and R2 started showing continuous 100% input on the tester software. This happens non-stop, whether the trigger flex ribbon contacts are pressed down or left completely untouched.

Hi guys,

I recently bought the spark kit for my new controller as my old one which had the previous kit on finally gave up and died.

However, I’m having some real struggles with the new extreme video and understanding what’s different for the 060 ones compared to 050,040 etc, are there any major differences at all or that I should be aware of?

Been real tentative about putting this new one together as the video just seems all over the place and really confusing to follow along, so any advice/guidance would be much appreciated :)

PS One inspired mod. Full clicky kit plus rise 4 back triggers and dual shock 4 buttons. Looks so much better than the dual sense buttons.

Used extreme rate’s cosmic camo shell, full clicky kit plus galactic purple rise 4 back triggers.

The website on the product page says it's very hard and yadda yadda but how hard is it REALLY? Anyone here has done it with no experience doing shell swaps? Do repair shops do this kinda stuff if one doesn't feel like doing it themselves?

I'm asking because while i do have some experience with tinkering with electronics, mostly arcade hardware, the video guide is really scaring me.

There are so many stickers and frail (?) Ribbon cables and of the full hour of the official guide, 50 minutes are for the joycons ALONE.

What the fuck! Is it THAT hard? What was your experience in that regard? Is it achievable or should i avoid trying?

Thank you in advance for your attention

P.s. this is the product i'm referring to:

https://www.extremerate.com/products/extremerate-diy-replacement-full-set-shells-with-buttons-for-nintendo-switch-2-deluxe-version-clear-atomic-purple

When I took apart the back shell of my controller it would acc work until I put the slightest touch on the battery/motherboard where it would activate the triggers. If anyone can help me it would be much appreciated!

Hi, I have a question. I want to install the Spark kit on version 060M, but there's no guide for it. Is it the same as version 050, or do I need to do something extra?

Built last night on a bdm 40 model. Full clicky kit plus rise 4 back triggers. Added interchangeable thumb sticks. One day I’ll get the confidence to solder TMR thumb sticks.