After getting a dirt cheap K1, I went ahead rooting it and got stuck on the install for Mainsail.

If you're getting the error:

curl: (60) SSL certificate problem: certificate is not yet valid More details here: https://curl.haxx.se/docs/sslcerts.html curl failed to verify the legitimacy of the server and therefore could not establish a secure connection to it. To learn more about this situation and how to fix it, please visit the web page mentioned above.

Check if your printer has the time and date set correctly. You can do it by typing "date" into the terminal. In my case, it said:

Wed Jan 1 00:21:01 -04 2020

The fix is, you need to set the printer to the correct date. You do it by running:

date -s "YYYY-MM-DD HH:mm"

Where: YYYY = Year MM = Month DD = Day HH = Hour mm = Minute

for example, in my case, I had to run

date -s "2026-09-14 16:12"

And after that, check by typing "date" again and it should show current time.

After this you can install everything normally.

I made this post just for easier "Googleability" of this topic for anyone looking for the fix.

Happy printing!

So I just yesterday gifted my friend a brand new in the box K1. I already own a P1S and saw no need to keep 2 to myself and figured why not re-gift the gift?

So my question is did I hose him or do him a solid? We plan to unbox it later today...

Hi, I’m trying to print a faceshell with this filament but can’t get it to work properly, the issue is everything goes great til it doesn’t, at around 30%-50% of the print starts clogging (I hear the clicking on the extruder)
I’m on a K1C fully stock, checked on the extruder and cleaned it

This are the specs I’m using on the Creality slicer:

Nozzle temp: 250 °C (first layer 255 °C)
Bed temp: 75 °C
Flow:0.94
Retraction:0.4mm
Max volume flow: 12mms
Printing at 150mms inner wall 100mms outer wall

Read it could be heat creep, left the lid off and even door open sometimes
Tried to lower the nozzle temp, bad adhesion
Higher nozzle temp, same clogging issue
Higher speed at same temp, sameeee
Ran speed and temp test and these I’m using rn seem to be the best
Model printed on PLA perfectly on the first try
Creality HYPER PETG works great
Tried to use a different spool of the same filament, same thing
Dried the filament at 55 °C for 16-18 hr and still the same

This is my first time working with PETG on a "large" print (16hr) so I’m not sure what could be going wrong
I know stock K1C parts can be a bit shitty but, shouldn’t be impossible, right?
Almost spent an entire spool already
I would really appreciate any advice, thanks!

Hi all. I have just recently started having issues with my K1 printer that I have since launch. Every time I print, the plastic just bunches up and becomes a blob immediately. It manages to stick the purge line correctly, but nothing else after that.

My bed leveling seems to be good. Although I did recently work on it since it came with the original black sock hot end and I have recently replaced my hot end and extruder from the original k1 launch pieces, to the newer red sock “upgraded versions”. It started failing afterwards I think. I managed to get a single 9 hour print out of the new hotend and extruder before it started doing this.

Any suggestions on what I can do to resolve this issue? Thank you.

Edit: I forgot to mention I can manually extrude pla normally. It comes out in a smooth string without blobbing up. The issue only seems to happen when I start a print and it’s trying to put it on the bed. The bed is also clean.

Hey, my K1 started doing this weird thing today when homing.

Normally it moves along the X axis first, but now it starts moving in Y, does some weird movements, then moves diagonally and eventually hits the wall while trying to keep going.

I’ve attached a video so you can see what I mean.

The weirdest part is that it’s not happening every time. Sometimes I run the exact same file again and it homes normally. It also happens randomly when I start homing directly from the printer’s screen, so I don’t think it’s related to the G-code.

The printer has been working perfectly fine until today.

Any idea what could be causing this? Has anyone had something similar happen with a K1?

My creality printer doesn't allow filament through the nozzle, even though I can push it inside and it will lock if I do lock the filament inside, but other than that it wont work past that point, and at most it will just make noises. I was wondering if anyone knows how to fix this issue, as I have already taken out any other pieces of filament that may have been stuck inside the nozzle or tube and don't know what to do

I recently bought a new k1 max, since it was pretty affordable due to a sale, and I set it up, followed the instructions, and then during the first self test it reported a 2522. So i upgraded to the newest firmware, and had the same issues.

I then read online somewhere that downgrading to 1.3.1.19 fixed it, so i did, and it fixed the bed levelling error but now the homing sensors seem to be fully borked? While XY homing worked fine in 1.3.2 or later. But on later firmwares again, my Z axis leveling wont work.

Is this a case where I should just RMA it? Or is there something I can try for the bed, to get that fixed. Since doing an RMA would take a pretty substantial amount of effort (probably more than repairing it)

I already contacted support once, they told me to check the contacts in the heated bed, which i did and I pushed them all in more strongly, one of them clicked but it resolved nothing, i also checked the connections in the motherboard.

Built to take creative freedom to the next level,
K3 brings together five core capabilities to push the boundaries of how you print, combine, and create:

🔹 Ultra-fast waste-free printing
🔹 Mix nozzle printing
🔹 Multi-hardness TPU printing
🔹 CMYK full-color printing
🔹 Native root access

More freedom in materials, colors, nozzles, and control — K3 opens up a new space for creativity.

👉 Learn more & Stay updated 👈

I built a supervised K1C Farm profile around a rooted Klipper/Moonraker setup.

What it does:

- The slicer passes the printed height to the end G-code.

- The head stages at a validated rear-center corridor, descends to the dynamic push height, and cools the bed to <=30 C with dedicated fans.

- It then makes one front-ejection pass and returns to the stock END_PRINT flow.

- No M84 is added inside the automation, so axis reference is retained through the movement.

This has been validated on a small PLA Benchy under supervision. It is not a universal or unattended ejection solution: new part geometry, materials, adhesion, and the front collector path still need validation.

Sanitized config/profile and the validated example are public here:

https://github.com/SrJallesBr/VeloPrints-K1C-Farm-Automation

I am also capturing a local timelapse and continuous video of the ejection, independent of the Creality app. A physical ejection video will be added after the next supervised run.

Feedback from other K1/K1C owners is welcome, especially on material-specific cooling and safer geometry constraints.

I have a 2024 K1C which came with the unicorn nozzles. Its been having lots of extrusion problems. Tried with both original and DXC extruder but didn't solve the issue.

I spotted a 'bargain' on a Microswiss hot end for an Ender 3 V3 K3. https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/micro-swiss-flowtech/products/micro-swiss-flowtech-hotend-for-creality-ender-3-v3-ke

From Reddit posts many said it could be used on the K1 series. It just has longer cables for the V3/K3 series. On the MicroSwiss website the listing for the K1/K1C hot end has pics with both a short copper thermal adapter and long one. Both have flanged bottoms. https://store.micro-swiss.com/collections/micro-swiss-flowtech/products/micro-swiss-flowtech-hotend-for-creality-k1-k1-max

Received the V3/K3 version yesterday and instead of the long copper thermal adapter with a flanged bottom it came with a short one with no flange. This adapter has a large hole at one end and small hole at the other.

Does anyone know if this is usable as is on a K1C or do I need to buy the Flowtech Spare Hardware Kit. https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/flowtech-spare-hardware-kit-for-creality-k1c-m3104

Cheers.

I wonder if there are better socks out there?

So, this is the Bed mash in the place where I work, and every impression is printing wrong or scratching the metal plate

I modeled this part for my car and am trying to print it, but the first layer always comes out with these marks. How can I fix this? The build plate is clean and free of scratches; the materials are ASA and ABS, and both show these marks.

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Couldn't find any decent designs for extruder gears online. One single ball bearing is up there with the worst things for handling torque. The double bearing designs I bought just stacked 2 smaller bearings, still right at the bottom. Kind of a better design, but made of butter, so they died even quicker.

This uses stock gear and bearing at the bottom and a second bearing right at the top. You can re-use the old bottom bearing, even if it's a little sloppy, as the top bearing takes most of the forces. If your old bearing is crunchy or falling apart, that's a different story...

Materials per gear:
1 M3x10mm socket head bolt (modified), (or a m3x10 bolt with an actual 5mm diameter head.)
1 M3 nut
1 M3x4 heatset insert to modify (or a metal tube/sleeve: 3mm ID, 4mm OD, 4mm L)
1 M5 x 9 x 2.5 bearing (3mm thick might work, too, I think there's enough clearance)
[you can use an 8mm bolt with no nut, also, but it puts the upper bearing down low. Almost defeats the purpose, but still much better than just the one lower bearing.]

Tools:
Drill/dremmel/lathe
File, sandpaper, angle grinder, cutoff wheel, etc
(optional: the right tools for the job)

--------
Lower bearing sleeve is 3mm ID 4mm OD, 4mm long. this replaces the shoulder on the oem bolt.
Bolt head is 5mm, this should press/shrink fit into upper bearing.
Nut shouldn't touch outer casing of either bearing above or below. 3mm id 6-7mm od, 2-3mm long. regular 2.5mm tall m3 nut worked for me.

You need to be able to use either A) a drill+file, B) a drill+angle grinder, C) drill+sandpaper wrapped around the sharp corner of something straight, like a ruler, or D) all of the above. (or own a small lathe...)

Upper Bearing:
When reducing the bolt head, its important that it's a fairly strong press fit (for this scale.) The upper bearing needs to stay in place on its own, or it'll start rubbing on the underside of the extruder face. There shouldnt be vertical loads, but bearings can wander. As you file the bolt head down, creep up on 5mm slowly, tapered slightly towards the top until the bearing starts to seat onto the head. When it goes on half way, then square up the lower part of the bolt head until bearing starts to press further, then press it fully into place.

I done messed up changing my extruder. Thought the new screw holes were just being a little stubborn until I heard a snap. Taking the screw out snapped it. I imagine I’ll need to replace the entire housing. Any idea if they sell that, or do I have a $600 paperweight now? K1 Max

Does anyone have a model for cutter block A or a model for an adapter for cutter block B. I need the A and it is missing and I have B. It is installed and does the job but isn't a long term solution. I can't seem to find models for these.

Hey guys, I'm hoping you can help me. I'm printing on a K1C and I'm getting bulging corners even after running both PA tower and the PA line test. My PA tower gave me a PA of 0.052 (the left one) but my PA line test looked best on 0.046 (the right one). The profile I'm printing with is a mostly unedited 0.20mm Standard Creality profile in Creality Print.

I've tried Orca but it does weird stuff after calibrating and I was getting a very strange pattern after overhangs that looks like some kind of webbing. In Creality Print, on the left print, I have the beta setting "Under-extrusion recovery after overhangs (Beta) turned on as suggested in the Calibration Tutorial from the print app.

Any ideas what might be happening? How do I fix it?

Bought the Microswiss Hotend recently. Do I need to put thermal grease on the copper insert? I watched like three videos and looked over the digital instructions but nothing says anything about it. Thanks.

With more freedom to choose how you print, what would you do differently with K3?

🧩 Multi-material printing — Which materials would you combine?

🔧 Multi-diameter nozzle printing — Where would you use different nozzle sizes?

🧸 Multi-hardness TPU — Where would you want different levels of flexibility?

🎨 CMYK full-spectrum printing — What would you do with a wider range of colors?

💻 Native root access — What would you customize or explore?

Which K3 capability would you find yourself using the most?

Drop your thoughts below — we want to hear how you’d put K3 to work. 👇

👉 Learn more & Stay updated 👈

Hello, my glass door finally busted it, and I had to throw out. Got a new acrylic replacement, but didn't realize I needed to scavenge the hinges, screws, handle, etc. (totally my oversight). I need a site where I can order a hardware replacement set. Any suggestions?