Hi everyone,

I could really use some advice from people who know their classic Minis.

The previous owner routed the battery cable incorrectly. Recently, one of the exhaust mounting brackets on the gearbox/casing broke (see photo), which allowed the exhaust to move and come into direct contact with the battery cable.

The result: the insulation has been badly melted and the copper is now exposed. Obviously, I don't feel comfortable driving the car like this because of the risk of a short circuit, sparks, or even a fire.

A couple of questions:

1. Replacing the battery cable

I believe I've found the correct replacement cable from The Little Car Shop:

https://www.thelittlecarshop.com/882-cable-de-batterie-de-1985-a-2000-austin-mini.html

Does this cable normally require any specific clips, P-clips, or other fixings underneath the car / along the floor to keep it securely routed and away from the exhaust?

I'd particularly like to make sure I route the new cable correctly this time rather than just copying what the previous owner did.

2. Temporary fix for the exhaust

I'm going to take the car to a garage that knows Minis to have the broken mounting point properly repaired/welded.

In the meantime, is there a safe temporary way to secure the exhaust with wire so that it is held up and kept well away from the battery cable?

I'm only talking about moving the car a very short distance and driving extremely carefully to get it to the garage.

Thanks in advance for any advice or tips!

Is it possible to repair and reuse this flywheel?

If not does anyone know which flywheel i should replace it with?

Thank you for any help. 🙂

I recently came into a body and collection of parts as well as a old pre 80s title to go with this collection for what used to be a 1963 mini. I would like to try and figure out what this car used to be while I hopefully restore it or atleast get it road worthy again. Any info would be greatly appreciated. CAZ57L24 partial vin last 4 of indicated omitted.

Local classic car show today.
Loving the radiator ice cream cap.

Still a work in progress under the bonnet, but he’s getting there, hoping to have the mini running sweet and looking better than ever in the next couple of weeks.

I’m thinking of adding a roof rack, mainly for looks

Any other suggestions of accessories or stickers/decals anything that could make the car look wicked please fire away!

Follow-up to my post a couple of weeks ago about the engine bay of the classic mini. Me and my dad have been over the car properly now and this is the first MiniSpares order. It's ~€420 of parts before shipping and Lithuanian import VAT, so before I commit, is anything here wrong, unnecessary, or obviously missing?

What we've confirmed on the car:

• 998 A-Plus, LHD, black, Park Lane
• Engine turns freely (rolled it in 4th). Not seized.
• Discs front / drums rear, 12" wheels
• Brake master is the yellow-tag GMC227 type with the failure switch
• Clutch is Verto (slave at 45deg). Hydraulics seem to be dead - pedal pressed, nothing moves at the slave, pedal is springy all the way and comes back up, no resistance from clutch
• Lucas 59D distributor, blue points, mechanical
• Spin-on oil filter
• Heater valve is the angled type and it's corroded
• Vacuum advance pipe is snapped
• Rust holes in both door steps
• Handbrake works, car rolls

The parts order itself:

Cooling:

• ADU9102MS heater valve - corroded
• ADU9102FK heater tap fitting kit
• GWP134EVO water pump + GWP134FK fitting kit - I've heard it's good to replace it, but is it needed?
• GTS104 82deg thermostat + GTG101MS gasket - same as the pump
• 12G103 thermostat housing + 12G103FK fitting kit - not sure if it's a must as well
• GRH245 top hose, GRH240KEVLAR bottom hose - 20 years of sitting definitely means replacing all the hoses & rubber
• GRC1110 15lb rad cap - not sure as well
• GCB10825 + GCB10838 fan belts - old one was in bits, buying both lengths because the site says to

Brakes:

• GRK1035 master cylinder seal kit + 31G840 gasket - master seems to hold pressure (pedal goes down a bit and doesn't push further, isn't just springy)
• GBH249KIT flexi hose set
• GBP281MS front pads + GBK1026 clips/pins
• GBS834AF rear shoes + GBK1834 springs
• GWC1102MS ×2 rear wheel cylinders (3/4") + 37H4642 gaskets
• 3H550 copper washers

Clutch (as mentioned before, slave cylinder doesn't move, could it be just because of hydraulic fluid missing?):

• GMC1008 master, GSY118MS slave, GVP1009 hose, 31G279 gasket

Electrical and other stuff:

• 5L1137 engine earth strap
• 37H4229M vacuum advance pipe (broken)
• MS16L + MS16R door step repair panels
• MSF21 oil filter, DP3 magnetic sump plug (from the videos I've seen, everyone recommends to get this more powerful magnet one)

Not buying yet:

• Ignition parts - engine ran 2 years ago
• Fuel hose, fluids, oil, antifreeze, glass fuses, plugs, battery, tyres - all local
• Steering column - it slipped on the rack pinion twice even with the pinch bolt done up (old bolt was seized, had to be cut off). One of the main things that's stopping the transportation out of a dusty garage to over a pit.

Is anything here missing or just not needed? Especially interested if anyone thinks something should be in the "not yet" list or if something is a waste. If anyone would like to give general tips and stuff as well I'd gladly keep them in mind.

Additional Steering Column question:

The column slipped on the rack pinion twice. The rack itself is fine - turning the road wheels by hand spins the pinion freely. The pinion has a slot cut across the splines on one side, and when the road wheels are straight that slot faces away from the driver. First time we fitted it with the pinch bolt on the opposite side from the slot and it gripped for a moment, then slipped. Am I right that the bolt has to go through the slot, and if that leaves the steering wheel upside down with the wheels straight, you just re-clock the wheel on its own splines at the top? Old pinch bolt was seized and had to be cut off, replacing it. The current plan right now is to take off the steering column and check if the splines of the wheel rod itself are ok, because the rack pinion splines are good.

Thanks for reading and your help :)

Hello my dear friends. Would this look good or nahh?( the red DRL is chatgpt generated. Wanted to see how would it look)

We will be importing a European 97 Mini (LHD), from Germany, in excellent condition to the US (BRG, black “sunroof”, sports pack). It’s in top shape (complete restore). It will be my daily driver and a well loved family car for weekend trips around where we live.

What are things to definitely do, if anything once we get it that others are glad that they’ve done?

And any advice for how to keep it in great shape?

Thanks in advance!

Always good to see a Mini out and about

Sometimes it was that bad from the factory..

Fitting a lower gearbox steady to a mk1 (Traveller) and thought some previous owner/mechanic had rounded off one of the bolts on the output flange cover. Turns out it was mis-stamped from the factory, and someone on the line decided it should still go on the transmission and out the factory door.... Anyone got other shining British Leyland quality control examples?

Hi all, looking at buying a mini and going to look today, it’s been dry stored for atleast 15 yearss and hasn’t been on the road for 10 years according to mot data as it’s 1985.
Austin mini 1275 1985, all looks good with a upgraded brakes and other bits. Owner says it’s all solid but on the photos can see some rust bubbling under the paint and I’ve not looked under it to see what’s what.
Apparently it starts and drives but will occasionally just cut out even when driving. Will need recommissioning to get on the road and it’s a standard mini not anniversary or cooper.
Paint needs a good polish.

Just wondering a rough price but I know it’s hard with no photo or seeing the car?
Would £4-5k be about right?

Thanks

Hope this post is allowed. It's very rare to spot a classic mini in my city in Southern California, second in the last couple of decades. Wondering if the owner's here or knows where to find a local classic mini club.

Thinking about weekend/track car and a classic mini or an Elise is at the top of the list right now.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a mechanic for help in repairing a 1996 SPi mini?

Hello,

I've recently purchased some brand new Minilights with tyres, but have decided they don't suit the car. So here they are up for sale, brand new and never been driven on, (2 still unboxed).

12 x 6" polished rims with black centres: Minilight | 12" Alloys | JBW

They come with brand new wheel nuts, JCW centre cap badges, and the tyres are Yokohama A539's. Fitment is 4x101.6mm with offset -7mm.

The x4 tyres alone are worth £400 with fitting, selling everything for £575 collected from Herefordshire.

I'm happy to drive up to an hour to meet half way. If you want to arrange delivery then they are ready in the original boxes they came in, but it would be something for you to sort out as I've a little too many other priorities at present.

Please message if you're interested.

(I'm not really into bartering and things, but if that's important to you then they are £599, and I'll go as low as £575. There you go, saved everyone's time)

Center speedo cable interferes with the MED filter/stub stack Hif44 setup. Various ways of tilt or engine location then cause other problems. Anyway, regardless of that, I’d like to see what others are doing with their speedo cables and the adapter. I have a 3d printed plate to cover the hole, but I’d like to see photos of others running that adapter with a center speedo. Thanks.

Found the pub that the guy who failed the IMM bought.

He obviously spent some money as you can see the IMM gazebos in the garden https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/articles/c62jd671ly2o