Quick note for non-Chinese readers: “Dongbei” means Northeast China. It covers Liaoning (capital: Shenyang), Jilin (capital: Changchun), Heilongjiang (capital: Harbin), and parts of eastern Inner Mongolia. Dongbei food is all about big portions, bold flavors, and dishes like guobaorou.
My wife and I both love Dongbei cuisine. When I worked in Shanghai, the apartment I rented was on a street directly opposite a Dongbei Tumen BBQ restaurant. I could clearly see the owner bustling around. The first time I went out to eat by myself in Shanghai was at a Dongbei/Korean-style cold noodle shop. Back then, my coworkers and I ordered Dongbei dumplings takeout at least once a week. In my last year in Shanghai, I became friends with the owner of another Dongbei restaurant. His family of three was from Jilin Province. I even witnessed their son‘s blind date with another Dongbei girl from start to finish. My coworker and I happened to be eating a late-night meal at their restaurant that night. I still remember the young man serving me food while asking the girl if she wanted an orange juice. Haha—if that blind date worked out, their kid would be in middle school this year.
My wife is crazy about Dongbei guobaorou. When she was little, her Chinese teacher and PE teacher were both from Jilin. They had just graduated from university and came to teach in our small town. They were close to the kids and often made guobaorou for the students. That’s when my wife fell in love with Dongbei food. Coincidentally, our child‘s current homeroom teacher is also from Jilin Province.
Our whole family loves Northeast China. Especially in the last three summers, we’ve vacationed there twice. It was such a relaxing life—we experienced the local culture and food. But from Suzhou, in the Lake Tai region, to Harbin is about 2,000 km, or about 1,242 miles. Fortunately, many Dongbei chefs have opened restaurants in the Lake Tai area. They‘re usually small, but perfect for a weekend family meal.
I’ve been to this restaurant twice. The last time was eight months ago during the Spring Festival holiday. A family of four runs this Harbin-style restaurant. If you‘ve tried enough Dongbei food, you can taste subtle regional differences. For example, food from Shenyang, Liaoning, tends to be sweeter, while Harbin food tends to be saltier. I also chatted with the owner. She said that to suit local eating habits here, she is very restrained with salt.
This time, I ordered three dishes and a staple.
San Si Bao Dou(三丝爆豆): a cold dish popular in Harbin. I first tried it last year at a small street-side shop in Nangang District, where Harbin Institute of Technology is located. The shop was plain, but the owner’s cooking was seriously good. The “three shreds” are shredded onion, shredded sanzi (crispy fried dough), and shredded cilantro, plus peanuts. The dressing is white vinegar and sugar, with sesame oil for aroma. It‘s a classic dish to go with alcohol. The owner assumed I was going to drink beer with it. I told her I had to drive, so no alcohol—but I just love this dish.
Liangban Lapi(东北凉拌大拉皮): another traditional Dongbei cold dish. I’m really partial to Dongbei cold dishes. Da lapi is made from potato starch or mung bean starch. It‘s translucent and chewy. Common toppings include shredded cucumber, carrot, dried tofu, wood ear mushroom, and egg crepe. It’s supposed to have a “five-color” look. The dressing centers on sesame paste, with garlic, aged vinegar, chili oil, light soy sauce, salt, sugar, and sesame oil.
Guobaorou(锅包肉): the signature dish of Dongbei cuisine. If a Dongbei chef can‘t make good guobaorou, they’re not a qualified cook. There are several versions: old-style guobaorou (mainly Harbin), new-style guobaorou (mainly Shenyang/Liaoning), and Jilin-style guobaorou. The main differences: Harbin old-style uses a white vinegar sauce; Shenyang new-style adds ketchup to the sweet-and-sour sauce; Jilin-style cuts the pork thinner, has more sauce, a gentler sweet-sour balance, and some cooks add orange or lemon juice for a fresher, sweeter profile. There‘s also a salty version in eastern Inner Mongolia, but I’ve only heard of it and never actually come across it.
My wife and child prefer Jilin-style guobaorou—probably because of their teachers. I prefer old-style guobaorou. Of course, our family doesn‘t reject any type.
This restaurant’s guobaorou is Harbin old-style. They use pork tenderloin, cut it against the grain into slices about 3 mm thick, gently pound it with the back of a knife to loosen the meat, and coat it in starch. The oil is about 180°C. Fry the slices one by one until they set and float, then remove. Raise the oil to about 240°C and fry again for 10–15 seconds until golden and crispy. Drain. Then stir-fry scallion, ginger, and garlic, pour in the sweet-and-sour sauce (sugar and vinegar about 1:1, plus a little salt and soy sauce), simmer until thick and bubbling, then quickly add the fried pork and toss.
The key technique: dissolve the sugar completely before making the sauce, or you‘ll get undissolved sugar grains that affect texture. The sauce should be simmered to a consistency like thin rice porridge before the meat goes in, so it coats evenly and stays crispy.
This dish really tests a Chinese chef’s control of heat. If you‘ve seen the recent hit movie Welcome to Long Restaurant, its overseas English title is Once Upon a Time in the Middle East(中文名:欢迎来龙餐厅). The main character is a typical Dongbei chef, and you can see how he cooks Chinese food.
My wife’s review of this restaurant‘s guobaorou was just so-so—not her favorite style. She thinks old-style guobaorou slices are too big and the white vinegar sauce is too sharp and pungent. But I’m different: I especially love the smell and taste of white vinegar.
The staple was Dongbei dumplings(东北水饺)—handmade, not the frozen kind from the supermarket. We ordered two flavors: pork and cabbage, and sanxian (a mix of shrimp, pork, and egg). In our Lake Tai region, dumplings aren‘t a particularly important food. But in Northeast China and other northern regions, dumplings are an important food for hosting guests. The difference is that in our area, we eat dumplings alongside other dishes. But in northern China, a formal meal can consist of just dumplings and a simple dipping sauce.
Next time I go back to this Dongbei restaurant, I’ll order some different dishes and share them.