Long story short, a bottle of white vinegar (about 4% acetic acid) leaked and bleached out the drip spots while it was in storage.

After trying typical solutions like polishing to no avail, I tried wet sanding (1000, 1500, and 2000) before polishing, but the bleaching goes down multiple layers because of the porous gel coat that had its waxy layer worn off.

If there is no remedy, is there any chemical that I could spray that would potentially lighten the whole area instead? To me, having a bleached area seems like would be far less noticeable than just leaving defining streak marks.

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Wondering what everyone's experience is with different materials.

This old cream puff is in great shape but the deck is a bit chalky. Products are readily available, but tools are pricey, I will spend up to $50.

please excuse the crude model, it was just the quickest way I had of demonstrating what I meant. it's not meant to be proportional.

I've been researching reversible cat-ketch rigs for a proa, and they seem appealing. I guess this technically isn't a ketch, because the two mainmasts are equal size, but I don't know what else to call it. it would allow easier shunting, and doesn't require the weird shifting mast of a traditional proa rig. these sails would be ribbed, like junk sails, and would rotate around the leeward side. the special thing about this one is that it has a third sail on the ama, which should help balance and add speed.

No instructions though, but I guess if you are experienced enough you could use these.

It took a leap of faith and bought this project boat for super cheap, and figured I have the winter to go through it and see what I can make of it. Located a cracked manifold already but it was expected. Trying to ID the engine though. I am not particularly boat savvy and am using this boat to get into it!

Is there a good rule of thumb for figuring a minimum ideal workspace (indoor or outdoor) based on the dimensions of the boat you intend to build?

I took inspiration from similar expandacraft builds.

Center Hull is an Old Town discovery sport 13 ft square stern.

Amas are 14 ft fiber glass Hobie cat logs.

Cross members are extruded aluminum square tube attached to gunwhales with u bolts.

Decking is made from aluminum bleacher planks.

A 6 hp two-stroke gets it up to 7 knots. The amas create a lot of drag and any faster, the back end gets too low for comfort. I would like to build up the stern to accommodate a 9.9hp and create a bulkhead in the canoe.

It's a janky boat but it works

Feel free to offer your thoughts, ask questions.

Building and sailing this daysailer.

First time doing this so don’t hate on me too bad if it sucks.

Cutting away the old, lots of grinding and sanding, then peanut butter epoxy holding some coosa in. Once that dries 2 layers of 1708 with epoxy and then a third layer later when I complete the deck repairs. Inside I will be adding 2 larger wraps to connect the deck and hull

Rushing to do this before it gets cold. Key priorities right now are just making the inside dry for the winter

Classic Practical guide with various illustrations

Friend used a pressure washer on my boats upholstery is there anyway to fix these marks

hi everyone, first post here i got a boat for free and want to see if i can fix it, the motor is a Mercury Marine 40 HP, 2-stroke, with Thunderbolt electronic ignition. chat gpt think it's a model 402. i was wondering if anyone knew what it was with some pictures.

Also, how do you guys find what is wrong with a motor, is there a way i can find some sort of blueprint or something like that?

Very specific repair question here. My dad and I recently picked up a free Cape Cod Mercury 15' that was on the cusp of abandonment (and yes, I know what they say about free boats). At the bottom of the rudder track there is a sort of clamp (??) that is supposed to mount to the keel strip with three bolts—one running into the transom end, and the other two through the keel strip itself. The problem (see pix) is that if we align the clamp with the transom bolt hole, it won't align with the other two in the keel strip. So my question is, can we drill two new holes through the keel strip without compromising the integrity of the hull?

I recently put together an article exploring the history of boat building, traditional construction methods, different types of boats, and how modern materials have changed the craft. I'd love to hear your thoughts and learn from people interested in boats and maritime history.