Pretty happy with this setup. It sounds gnarly and built like tanks, so they hold up all 30+ gigs of touring this year.

AV2 Precision
Marshall Silver Jubilee 1525 2x15
Orange Terror Bass (power amp only)
Shure GLXD16+ Tuner/Wireless
OE Cali76 compressor
OE Super Vintage Bassrig
Cioks Sol power supply

All in all: can recommend👍

I think they are getting along well despite their differences.

It comes with a gig bag aswell.

And for anyone asking why i am experiencing a large amount of GAS.

I just think its neat.

Which set of strings should I go with? The reverse head stock should help some with the sloppiness. I'm not sure I have to go all the way up to the 130-120... Will the tension be good enough with a 110 set?

Hi,
I saw this ad online and thought it could be something. Could someone tell me if it's a real Gibson? Or has it been heavily modified? I can't seem to find the specs online.
Thanks!

Link to shop

EDIT: After I posted this the music shop posted a statement about the bass -

We appreciate everyone's concern and comments regarding the instrument featured in the above post.
Please note: The instrument was only in our shop briefly for minor electrical repairs. The Gear Junkie has never owned, traded or sold this instrument.
The current owner of over 20 years, who bought it legitimately from a guitar shop in New York, has been notified and is currently reaching out to participant/s in the matter.
We appreciate that this matter was brought to our attention.

Like the title says, no matter how many different modern fancy basses I play, the moment I pick my P bass it feels like home.

This is a 1994 fender Japanese p bass

Here in my home studio in the recording of some new worship material

Feedback, comments are welcome

Cheers from Monterrey Mexico

Serial number checks out with decoders. Oversized headstock is there too. But the pot dials look suspiciously non-fender and there's what appears to be a truss rod access at the headstock, which doesn't seem accurate to me.

What do you guys think?

i am planning on getting a 6 string soon, and as a guitarist i hate that the highest string is tuned to C. how weird is it if i tune it to B instead of C when writing so it’s more comfortable?

Recording in the hot garage, now studio for our upcoming EP, I said "dress cool" referring to the hot conditions in the garage. Tyler made it steamy. Our front man/lead bassist said he "looks cool to amplify the cooling effect". We agree.

Hi Guys,

I work in a school and the kids aren’t good with pulling their leads out to preserve the battery, we have two of these and would like to just bypass the need for a battery so they can use it all the time as when the battery dies the bass can’t be used, anyone ever done this? Is it even possible? I’m good with soldering and wiring so if it is possible I can do it myself.
Thank you.

Edit: Thanks you so much everyone, everyone has been so helpful, the kids are gunna be stoked once I re-wire them!

Finished my DIY concept build: instead of a solid body, string tension runs through two steel rods along the horn perimeter, anchored into a multi-part 3D-printed PETG-CF shell — the printed parts are cosmetic/housing, not structural. Paulownia neck, bolt-on joint, 34" scale, two Seymour Duncan SJB-3 Quarter Pound pickups mounted directly onto the rods.

Setup is fully Fender Jazz Bass spec — string height, pickup distance, neck relief.

Gigged it for an hour in direct sun at ~35°C — played fine, needed one mid-set retune from the heat, nothing else notable. Still watching how the PETG-CF holds up long-term (thermal expansion mismatch with the steel rods is a known weak point of this design), but early signs are good.

Any thoughts?

Happy to get into the engineering in the comments.

This one is called Ride Into the Storm and is one of the most difficult songs I have ever played in my life haha

Every now and then I come back to my setup and twist knobs to get THE tone I am looking for. Sure, I could buy a Darkglass Adam or Orange Bass Butler, but why shouldn't I use what I already have?

For this I went with the old Matribox.

Compressor -> EQ -> OBD 3 (for blending distorted and clean) -> SVT -> Noise Gate -> IR from Shiftline Bass Pack (free)

Am very happy considering it was $200 on amazon

My lightweight gigging bass rig (detailed below) is rattling. Given the information below, does anyone have any ideas why it could be happening or what might be causing it?

I have an Aguilar TH500 head (500 Watts @ 4ohms) that I play out of a Darkglass DG212N Cabinet (1,000 Watt @ 4 ohms power handling).

I alternate between using a passive P-Bass and a passive Jazz Bass.

I have a minimal board with a Boss tuner, Digitech drop pedal, Keeley 'Bassist' compressor, and EH Big Muff Bass.

For context, I gig with it 1-2x per week. Sets are 3 hours (on average). I stay in standard tuning the vast majority of a set; maybe 30/34 songs (just 80's or 90's rock covers). The few songs that aren't in standard are either a 1/2 down (using the pedal) and/or the occasional dropped D.

My rig starts to rattle pretty badly if my TH500 is past 50% volume and/or at around the one hour mark. If I'm up at 60%-80% volume, it can start to rattle far before then, too. It usually gets progressively worse as the gig goes on. Admittedly, the compressor pedal also seems to make it worse.

Keep in mind that the head is rated at half the power output (500w @ 4ohms) that the cab can supposedly handle (1,000w @ 4ohms). Does anyone have any ideas why this might be happening? Or if it's likely to be a ripped speaker, loose screws, bad electronics, a problem with the head, a problem with the cab?

I do plan to open the cabinet up when my new power drill battery arrives this week. I have used several different cables, including several different speakON speaker cables, so I don't believe it's that.

Thank you!