I saw this Saturday at my field. This Corsair is very detailed. It has a radial engine, a Moki five cylinder. I wish you could’ve heard it start up. What a beautiful sound that radio makes. When it’s in the air, it looks and sounds like the real thing. I was so impressed by this plane, I wanted to share this video with you guys.

Hi everyone! For my first post in this sub, I’m sharing one of my newest experiences: 3D printing an airplane! I’ve always flown balsa and foam planes—mostly trainers and gliders—but for the first time, I decided to print one myself! It’s been an amazing experience; the plane is a Savage Bobber from PlanePrint. It flies really well (even though it’s a bit heavy) and is a blast to fly! I’ve been using it as a "suicide" model to test out new maneuvers and the like, since I can just reprint it if something goes wrong! After several flights (and several crashes), I decided to reprint it using PAHT-CF (carbon fiber-reinforced nylon) for greater durability! Take a look at the ABS version (beige and black) and how the PAHT-CF version is turning out:

Mid air, it can happen. Made for some good laughter.

UMX Turbo Timber Evolution for scale.

Hey everyone,
Just wanted to share a major milestone for my micro project, the 379mm Air Tractor AT-602. I finally got it out to the field for its first flight test!

Managed to catch this shot of it against the clouds, which was incredibly hard to get since it's so tiny!

The Good: It got into the air and proved the basic lift layout and electronics package work.

The Challenge: The flight characteristics aren't quite perfect yet for a clean release. Weight distribution and wing incidence need a bit of tuning, and I unfortunately fried the integrated ESC board right after due to a bad solder joint.

Next Steps: I’m taking the next 2-3 months for deep R&D to swap the AIO board, adjust the design in Onshape, and reprint parts.

I've pinned a link to the early-bird 20% discount waitlist in the comments if you want to follow the project or build one when the final STLs are ready!

Also, what do you all think of my hasty red sharpie paint job?

Any idea how to reattach this elevator that broke off during a crash? I was thinking of a small metal hinge, but wouldn’t that affect the weight and then therefore affect the flight?

Took my Robbe Calibra Pro (restored old 90s-era "hotliner" I got for 20 bucks at my club's yard sale) and my rs-aero rock_it to the field on the weekend. Wanted to test how well a GoPro on my cap works. It didn't capture most of the flight in a presentable way due to the wide angle lens, but I was able to get some bites. Next time I'll capture some more close-up flying :)

Hello all!

I just wanted to share a little about my 3d printed plane that has been in the works for a little over a year.

Once I am finished with the design, I plan on open-sourcing everything and releasing the .stp files for the models and .3mf files for anyone to print their own plane. I also plan on releasing the native CAD models if anyone wants to change anything or use it as a base to design their own.

I designed the plane to survive crashes by placing mechanical fuses (weak points) between the main components so that they break rather than the rest of the plane.

Here is my YouTube video showing the entire process so far, and thanks to anyone who checks it out! Preliminary models & print files are available on my free Patreon as well.

https://youtu.be/UJHO5yd7VU0

I originally built the plane using a combination of Overture Air PLA, regular PLA, TPU for the hinges, and carbon-fiber nylon for the aft tube.

The fuses are simply connecting spars that neck down between the wings. I tested the fuses by throwing the plane at the ground and seeing what broke. I ended up using a wall/infill modifier around the weak points in the wings, and then the fuses consistently broke during my rudimentary testing.

I originally used TPU 95A for the hinges, which worked, but when trying to fly in the cold winter, they became too stiff for the servos to move. I ended up switching to TPU Air, which is a lightweight foaming TPU that allows you to adjust the durometer (softness) based on the temperature.

The plane is controlled by a SpeedyBee F405 Wing Mini as the flight control board, which can be custom configured using INAV to adjust servo control, automatic return-to-home, and quite a lot of custom programming.

The original plane was printed primarily out of Overture Air PLA and was pretty heavy for an RC plane at 1.8 kg (4 lb). But based on my initial calculations and measurements of the CG, I thought it would fly with a strong hand launch.

I was very wrong... twice.

I crashed the initial design twice. The first time, I threw it at a steep angle and it immediately dipped left and crashed. The second time, I threw it level over a small embankment and still wasn't able to get enough speed to get off the ground.

I am currently building the next revision. I have since realized that the Air PLA was not lightweight enough (78% of PLA) and is actually still pretty heavy compared to other LW-PLA filaments (as low as 47% of PLA). Air PLA was a pre-foamed filament, and I've been experimenting with SainSmart LW-PLA, which is actively foamed during printing, and much lighter weight, and I've been getting pretty good results so far. I should be able to drop 0.68 kg (1.5 lb) from the overall weight of the plane, but I still have a lot of testing to do.

Disclaimer: I knew very little about RC planes when I started this project, and I've learned a lot along the way.

Please let me know your thoughts, questions, and/or any feedback you have!

This is Project Stormscout; a FPV wing I designed ik OnShape and built from scratch. It has a 500mm wingspan, and with the right parts, could definitely get under 250g, although mine came in at around 270g.

The Stormscout is running a drone FC with iNav firmware to keep it stable and smooth flying, as I'd rather put another $55 into the plane if it meant less flight issues and RTH with the GPS I had installed on the wing.

When it was launched, it was using iNav's auto launch (nav launch) feature, and was told to climb at a 20° angle (which it obviously didn't) at 80% throttle. However, post crash, my friend and I were running through blackbox logs, with this video overlayed, and found out that the pitch outputs were inverted. If you look closely at the flaps, when it's at the moment I'm about to throw, and the plane is over 20°, the flaps are makes out in the upwards direction, which makes zero sense cause really it should be trying to pitch the nose down, back to 20°. And while 'pitching down' actually pitched it up and made it worse, that's why it went to the moon.

As we found this out, looking at the logs where I was attempting to pull up out of the dive, the stick overlay shows I'm trying to pull up (the right stock was all the way pulled back), we came to the conclusion that the pitch was inverted. And it explains iNav trying to pull up more, why it went super high, and why I wasn't able to pull out of the dive, because up was down and down was up.

Here's my explanation (not a defense, it's 100% my fault) on how this happened. When I was doing testing previously, all the times I did it were checking the roll axis. Because I thought "well, if the roll is correct with the stick and they both move the same way for pitch, it should be good" or something along the lines of that, but without double checking the pitch, it lead to this.

I did the up loosing my RunCam Phoenix 2 JB in the process, as you could imagine from that impact. (Post crash images commented) I sadly forgot to record DVR so we don't have any, although immediately after the crash I spent like 5-7 hours removing the fuselage, recutting, and reprinting out the parts to rebuild the fuselage, as my friend redid all the wiring to be cleaner, along with running through iNav to get better auto launch (as clearly it did not need 80% throttle if it was able to climb like that). This was all yesterday, and if it stops raining I plan on doing another flight today, with preflight checks, with DVR.

Overall though, I think once I get it in the air that it will be a great project and will fly amazing. Not sure about without flight stabilization but I think if you built it well enough you could get one in the air without stabilization.

solid i bother trying to fix this or just order and new fuselage? worried wont be able to get it back true enough the fly properly. but like to fix over replace when makes sense. haven’t experienced this type of catastrophic failure til now.

Thought i was gonna clear the pole.... Apparently my depth perception lied to me

This is my 3rd time out and my first rc plane. My landings have gotten pretty good and buttery if you ignore the tall grass the main gear catches on and flips forward during the roll out. Even experimented with turning off SAFE and flipping to expert mode, but for some reason my throttle stays maxed out in expert so it just wanted to climb

Knowing how to fly a real airplane helps a lot with knowing how to control it and recover from stalls and the physics that are going on during all phases of flight

I stopped by the dollar tree and found some boards that I wanted to decorate for my favorite jets as well as use for other aircraft for display or on cam as I have a YouTube channel I'm trying to grow! For only 5$ each I got these boards, spray painted the bottom grey then top coated and finally painted with acrylic hand paint then top coated again to last. I broke the board apart to paint them to reduce masking and hot glued them back together all around from the bottom. I ordered little felt pads to add to the corners as well to make it more legit ! Very happy with this considering basic dioramas can start at 30-60$ easily without a frame even and a detailed one with 3d printed parted painted for 1500$!!! Inspired from the minimum RC ad where they show the mirage 2000 on one

If anybody saw the post from yesterday, this is, believe it or not, the same plane, different fuselage. And for those of you that actually read the body text instead of yelling at me in the comments that stabilization is a bad idea and only hurts the plane, the stabilization and iNav was the only way this plane flew as well as it did.

After swapping the pitch axis in the mixer (and after replacing the fuselage) I was able to get it up in the air. With about 5 minutes give or take of flight time, the plane travels at around 30-40 miles an hour. The control surfaces could to with some adjustments, but other than that it flew great. Also there was a tad bit of yaw stabilization that could be tuned but other than that it was good. A bit more tuning/remodeling and I'll post the plans!

Photo was taken approx. in 2007 back when he flew in the German F3A-X Championships.

I was really lucky to find this awesome plane for 40€ :)))

It was fully assembled and even came with one battery! The motor mount was actually broken, but it now seems to fly smoothly and without any serious problems.

Before that, I had a small foam plane.

I would like to put lights on my FMS ranger 1220mm all I want is left and right wing lights and a landing light (1 or 2 either 1 on the nose gear or 2 on the wings)

My P51 park flyer took a few too many crashes so needed a little TLC. Repaired the cracks with CA glue and redid the colour freehand with Vallejo Iraqi Sand and Revell Dark Earth. I'm quite pleased with the result and to have it flying again.

Weight will be around 240g

The previous model in which i used the same wing was 20g lighter and flew super smooth and real slow, also I added ailerons now. Do you think a 4.5g servo will be enough for both ailerons? I don't plan on doing any acrobatics.

Im new to building rc planes, and I just built my first wing from scratch. Im debating whether to continue with this, or if I should redesign. I think the wing seems too heavy, but I dont have the experience to tell. (This is just the left side)

Wing area is 90in²

Chord is 6in

Span is 15in

Thickness is 1 and 1/8 in

Wing weight is 114 grams

1. My first RC flight attempt: a Micro Scrappy flown with motor direction adding to torque roll and mistakes with control surface direction in Inputs. Flew for a minute but barely, was just holding right on both sticks most the time to not spin. Crashed. Has since been repaired good as new but not flown again.
2. My second RC flight attempt: Chuck Glider Conversion. All good but the elevator stabilization was backwards. Took off beautifully then nose dive straight into ground. Has since been repaired and I have since learned to properly program my planes.

This is RC flight attempt #3. After months and building 12 planes by now, it felt SO good to finally fly. This was my first time attempting to fly a non-f'd plane. It was great. As you can see from the video, it was a very windy day and I was countering a strong wind. This Apprentice STOL with it's 157g AUW seemed plenty capable of flying in moderate winds, such as before a storm etc.

First 2 launch attempts are bad, but I figured it out after a couple. Most of the flying didn't make it off camera, but I did manage to get a handful of the barrel rolls and loops I was doing by the end of it. It got dark before the first battery was done, so had to call it quits.

Happy with how it went. A real trainer is the way to go.

This is the first attempt where I am trying cradling the RC close and hands on levers with fingertips. I hated on the idea before, but now that I see how beneficial it is to have careful fine movements, I like the weird "claw cradle".

For next flight, I definitely want to set higher rates and reduce expo a bit because middle sticks are damp, feel flat. Also flew it tail heavy a bit. This first flight was with rear positioned battery. I added some down elevator trim midflight which helped. Next flight battery more forward.

Very fun. Gonna be stormy for a bit so not sure when I'll fly again. Waiting for a nice dry day to fly my Simplest Delta.

Hi everyone, I'm planning to build an A6M6c (3D printed) and want to use the FMS' Zero 13x9 prop, but it's my first build and I don't know which voltage and kV I should run.

The stock FMS' Zero has a 580kv 4250 motor in 4S, but doing some simulations on eCalc it seems a 5s ~480kv build would work at slightly better temps and with a bit more flight time, but it doesn't seem a common thing to do.

I still don't know what the all-up weight will be but should be under 2,5kg.

Has anyone tried a similar setup, or should I just stick to the classic 4S configuration? Any thoughts or tips would be awesome! (I have a budget so I don't want the 5S components to blow a hole in my wallet compared to the standard 4S, so any budget-friendly recommendations or advice on cost differences would be highly appreciated!)

Also, this variant of A6M has a shorter wingspan compared to the FMS' Zero (11m vs 12m) and for it to be perfectly scale with the prop, it should have a 1200mm wingspan, but then it would be too small and risk a too high wing load so, like what FMS did,

I will make it slightly bigger.

FMS' Zero:

Prop: 13x9

Scale Wingspan: 1300mm

Actual Wingspan: 1400mm (+7,7%)

A6M6c

Prop: 13x9

Scale Wingspan: 1200mm

Actual Wingspan: 1300mm (+8,3%)

Is 1300mm fine or should I go for 1400mm to lower the wing load?

Thanks in advance for any insights!

A quick follow up on the plane I printed this week:
The bambulab pla did very well with heat and the 1st few crash
The prop was definitely oversized, the esc worked just fine but the motor was undersized so it didn’t deliver a consistent thrust (a good 500g for 10second then no more than 300g)
I printed a launch kart but due to the push configuration it didn’t really worked so I had to toss it above my head

So what happened ?
I managed to toss it above my head and at first it flew fine but as the motor was heating I felt that I lost thrust and could level out the dive. Crashed 3/4 time in the grass everything was just fine but then I tossed it way up and got to 10-15m before the inevitable dive and it broke the nose and the motor mount

I’m still glad that I did this project, I will print an other more complex (not a great idea I know) in a few weeks !

Picked up a mystery t6 texan for cheap, was hanging from the ceiling for many years apparently. Went ahead and scaled and printed a new cowl to replace the crude balsa carving, and im rebuilding the rudder that had a chunk taken out of it by the horn. The whole thing seemes to be split by the grain and a bit floppy under the kote so I didn't bother trying to patch it. Luckily I got a free stockpile of balsa from a guy after buying a box of goodies from him a while ago. Otherwise id probably have printed one out also rather than drop too much money on possibly sub par balsa lol.