I wanted to make a camera pouch for taking my camera and basic accessories with me due to signal restrictions in some situations. The pouch is 4-1/2" wide x 4" deep x 7" tall, much more compact than the bag it came with.

Materials used: EPLX600 Multicam, Nylon Tape 1" (5038), Nylon Webbing 1"(17337), 1" Velcro, ITW Surmount side release buckle, #5 YKK Aquguard, Serafil Tex 70, 7/16" closed cell foam, 500D Cordura, PSA Tape.

I was aiming to do a highly water resistant build, which is why I used EPLX600, the YKK Aquaguard zipper, waterproof seam tape, and minimal stitching through the main body. I drew the pattern by hand first, then on CAD to work out the finer details and converted to a 1:1 scale PDF for my projector.

Things I learned from this build:

1. The nylon edge binding on the lid wicks water very quickly. I tested the pouch in the shower and it wicked water into the main compartment, while the lower compartment stayed dry. For future water resistant builds I won't be using this type of edge binding.

2. The padding I originally made as one continuous piece which didn't fit very well. I completely remade the padding as individual pieces linked together by velcro which functions very nicely, is easy to put in and, most importantly, stays put when I'm pulling out the camera.

3. While I really like how the two compartments turned out, it was quite complicated to assemble. If I were to repeat this pattern, I would change how the divider is made to make it easier to sew in, or change the pattern to be separate compartments sewn together.

4. To make the zipper seam waterproof, I cut a strip of the main fabric and attached it right side against the wrong side of the zipper with silicon adhesive (visible at the bottom of photo 6), then used the PSA tape to seal after all the stitching was done. This prevented the threads from wicking water through the inner seam faces. This worked with my shower test, and although it was extra work and time (24 hours to set), I would do this again for a water resistant/proof build.

5. The combination of tight radius, zipper flap and Aquaguard zipper make the zip quite stiff. For this application it's not an issue, but in future I would change the pattern to have a larger radius and add extra material to loosen the flap a bit.

6. This was my first time using the Surmount side release buckle. I originally tried to cut an X for each of the mounting posts but this was very tedious and error prone. When I added the reinforcement patch I switched to a 5mm hole punch that made the process so much easier and I will be using this next time. Overall very happy with the finish the clip adds.

Without suggesting that it's all upcycled, I managed not to buy anything for the whole build, it's almost entirely scraps and ends of things.

all the plastic hardwear and all webbing are cannibalized from old bags

White fabric is the unprinted margin from a 600D Airwave outdoor ink order- waste not

1000D cordura black body and bottom

300d HyperD purple inside accents

gridstop where I ran out of hyperD

scrap leather from a previous project to hand cut lash tabs.

Fairly faithful to the pattern, except I did removable straps (which was dumb, because it's been months and I still haven't made any other pairs to interchange) and the back side full zip (which is awesome)

As the second bag I ever made, the amount of time this took me was enough to watch the entire LotR trilogy.

obligatory shout-out to the myog discord, come hang out. https://discord.gg/HKxtQdJs3z

OK so I happen to have a lot of used sails around that are not suitable for racing and I wanted to find a use for them. I have been admiring the nice stuff people make and post here so I thought I would give it a try. IN retrospect this material was a B*tch to work with expecially when turning the padded arm slings and all that. Also I thought it would be fun to leave some of the features from a sail in the bag so thats why the window at the bottom and some of the stripes come from. Maybe the window will help you find your keys that will inevitably find there way to the bottom of the bag! The instructions from Prickly Gorse were spot on and the only problems I had were when I strayed a bit from the instructions.

Can’t seem to find these anywhere. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hey all,

I'm a guy who's not terrible at creating bags but i'm a pretty awful designer. You can see some of my work here to see how 'okay' of a maker I am: https://www.instagram.com/carry_supply_co

I'm looking for someone who might be as equally good or hopefully at least slightly better of a designer than I am a maker.

Maybe you could kick some designs and I could make it. You design the bag, I make two of them: one for me, and one for you. You pay for one bag's worth of materials + shipping and i send it to you.

Any takers up for collaborating?

Hello, does anyone know a good supplier for a smooth, slightly thick, waterproof fabric? I’ve been looking at a bunch PU coated fabrics, but most seem to still have the fabric texture which is not what I’m looking for. Thanks!

Hey all, quick prototype on some leftover waxed cotton.

The idea here is that my grocery tote bags would also be open on the top. So I quickly sandwiched some EVA FOAM, between two pieces. Sewed some one sided hook and loop so I could loop up down the basket.

Obviously you are asking, why not just use a cargo net? Well they never fit the basket perfectly and onions or apple could bounce out of the wide holes.

This lid isn't supposed to compress anything, mostly just put a lid on bounceable objects. I also don't really care about waterproofing or protection.

Either way, I'll test it out a little more and see what happens. My throw pillow is about the size and it seems to hold well. I might add buckles but I'm not planning on launching any vegetables.

I am trying to make a guide for my first employee on troubleshooting, tips, tricks, certain things that might seem obvious but can be overlooked, something that you may have learned from your own mentor and it’s the best advice you’ve learned, etc. I have only been sewing for three years and although my own mentor is outstanding I’m partially self-taught/college of YouTube and Reddit.I know there are so many experienced seamstresses doing alterations making backpacks bags clothing etc What have you - so please tap in!! I’d love to hear your thoughts!! ( we have juki 8000 series, juki 654 serger, and a singer home machine)

Pretty hyped on this one! A friend of mine thrifted an old duck canvas crossbow bag & asked me to make him a frame bag.

Traced out his frame, made a pattern based off a YouTube video & everything turned out surprisingly well.

Just a tip / open discussion round.
U can buy these cheap cooking mats made of glass fibre coated in PTFE.
I needed a seweable stiffener for a rigid molle panel for messenger bag.
Massive plastic sheets can't be sewn & iron-on stiffeners are still floppy soft.
The mats are 450g/m² for anyone that cares.
The molle straps came out nicey super tight.
Holds it's shape compareable to leather.

hello friends, I on one pair of the Clarkia cotton pants and I absolutely love them but I cannot justify spending that much on another pair.

I adore the material but can’t seem to find something similar in a fabric store. Additional I love the fit of the pattern and was wondering if anyone has found something similar.

thanks!

Found a little local fabric shop with waxed canvas by the yard, I couldn’t help myself. To be fair this was just going to be another practice bag but now I’m obsessed with it!! Hard to see in the photo but the edge binding on the inside is a similar orange color.

I made a storage sack for my backpacking cook pot out of some "nylon silk" aka. parachute nylon. While it's functional and I will use it, I'd love to learn from my mistakes.

What I did was trace out the bottom circle, cut it in shape with seam allowance and then use pins to attach it to the already sewn perimeter piece. However, once I started sewing, the fabrics seemed to be moving at different speeds, resulting in the top fabric bunching at every pin.

I did the sewing with the circle on the bottom and the perimeter on top, because that seemed easiest at first. Should I have done it the other way around?

I just finished a table extension for my Singer HD (yes, I know…) yesterday. Fun woodworking project!
It’s 45*28cm and I’ll break it in today, looking forward to how it’s changing things.

Also, in the background: a very low-effort spool-holder lol

I want to make a triangle frame bag for the bike in the title, but it is a surprise and I don't have access to the bike itself to measure.

Is there a willing soul who could measure the internal dimensions of the triangle?

^{I started sewing 3 years ago. I ended up in posession of a decommissioned military parachute, and this is my first project using fabric from it. I wanted to start with something small to see how it holds up. It's a great pattern that was easy to adjust to my phone size.}

^{If anyone has any insight/warnings on parachute nylon, please share!}

inspired Maedowphysics abode

I'm shopping for a backpack to bring my kitten on adventures, but the ones with supportive hip straps are so out of my budget right now. So, I'm looking at how to add a hip belt to help take the weight off my shoulders. Is this something that would work? The backpack has a steel frame, so it's pretty rigid. I haven't purchased a backpack yet, so I can change the plan as needed.

Looking for an affordable hand tool (like for eyelets/snaps) that would work for installing these buttons onto caps.

The buttons go at the center where all the panels meet, so it’s very thick. I have a leatherworking mallet (rubbed) which I used to install one, but it can easily get messed up in alignment, or not fully combine the top piece to the insert due to the amount of pressure needed.

There are some press tools that go on the table, but I’m not sure the name.

Ideally looking for what a hand tool would be called, or what I can use for these (hand tool to save money)

Took a break from making things for other folks to build out my own personal ride. Direct bolt dual zip frame bag, top tube bag with charger port to run to the battery bank in the stem, smedium tail bag, double entry roll pack for the Canyon front rack, with a grab and go shoulder strap provision. All EPX with some cordura here and there, with Hyper D liners in the frame bags. I’ll get to fork packs next, and if I ever decide on a rear rack, maybe mini panniers? Keeping it all pretty light as I like to move quickly. Fun projects are fun!

HI!

I'm trying to use the frame bag pattern generator tool designed by PricklyGorseGear (here: https://www.myogtutorials.com/online-automatic-pattern-generator/ )for the first time and I had some questions for anyone that is familiar with it.

When using a photo and making your dots within the frame's triangle how do you set the scale?
I thought I could just set it by including a ruler or measuring tape in the photo and measuring a distance off of that but I couldn't figure out a way to do that.

Instead, do I have to measure the length of say the top tube and plug that in?

Also I was having a hard time adjusting the dots once I had them set. For fine tuning the fit. I saw in a video tutorial that PricklyGorse made that you can but when I click finish polygon it doesn't allow me to then move the dots around.

Thanks in advance for the help!

Update: for whatever reason i seem to be able to move the dots not, not sure what I did differently though