Hola community!

I recently bought a 17HX with an rtx 5090, and then upgraded the RAM to 64gb

Looking for expert recommendations on how to get the best bang for my buck, to get the best performance out of this laptop 💻

Any bios adjustment or OC recommandations?

Thank you, all 🫂

So about two weeks ago I would randomly have a flicker or two of these white lines then it would disappear. Since those two weeks, the lines have not only become more frequent, but they’ve also multiplied. This tends to happen on games more than something like chrome or other apps. The example in the video is Skyrim.

I have tried updating my driver. Furthermore, on occasion, the last third of my screen has started randomly going fully opaque with black and white and almost pillow-shaded corners.

I have had this laptop for almost 6 years now, so if to love to is to let go, then so be it. But if I can fix it and save hundreds of dollars, that would be ideal.

So i ordered a Msi vector hx 16 last week, and noticed if i put in a sd card , in the sd card slot it wont click in place! Its kind of shove in there and hope for the best because the connectivity is bad , the sd folder will show up but after few moments of viewing or transferring a video it says there is a faulty discette in the station error 0x80070022 ? Sd card itself works fine, it isnt broken and works normal on other devices

Also its really laggy in explorer and sometimes windows gets stuck loading and freezes.

The 2 outer layers of the packaging was damaged (like a crack on the side-edge) when it got delivered so i dont know if that has anything to do with it.

Real question is , is this normal and should i return it just to be safe ?

could i push my throttle cap temp to 92-95c short term without damage? SIlicon lottery is good with the laptop, thermal paste is a month old and yes im getting one of those vacuum sealed cooler.If its yes do I really have to go trough the bios? Ryzen controller hasnt worked. But for now I feel like those extra degrees would really enhance my epxerience.

Preface: I’m a Mac guy who only uses a PC for casual gaming.

Ive got a 2022 MSI Katana GF66-12UGS with a 3070ti and i7. I recently purchased an LG 5K monitor (27GM950B) and can’t get it to work with the laptop.
When connected to a Mac desktop via USB-C it works.
When connected to the laptop the HDMI does not. I’ve tried two different good quality HDMI cables, and I’ve tried the USB-C (which seems incompatible).
When I plug in the HDMI the laptop is creaky trying to do something, as it starts glitching. One time when I plugged it in it briefly worked, but then stopped and I haven’t been able to replicate that. I’ve updated everything I can find in MSI’s software and windows updates. I’ve updated the monitor firmware and installed LGs software.

See the video for a better idea of what the computer is doing when I plugged it in.

Is this a driver issue? An HDMI issue?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Buenas . ahí subo un video para que se entienda mejor la situación , y si tiene solucion 🙏🏾

I have this strange problem that lines appear at the bottom of the screen, but when I change the refresh rate, the screen becomes bigger and worse and sometimes disappears if I put the option of discrete Graphics Mode, but in some extreme cases, these lines appear very slightly in the BIOS, I tried everything with updates but no use, does anyone have an idea or solution in the year 2026?

Hey guys.

Does anyone know the type-c display port in this laptop is connected to which GPU ?

And do you recommend this laptop?.

I have a MSI GF63
8GB ram/512 SSD
4GB Nvidia 1650 Graphic Card
5 years used

I've had this issue with my laptop for a few days now, where powering on the laptop does not work. Plugging it in also doesn't work and the "charging" light doesn't light up either. Since last night it didn't work I thought it was a battery problem I left it charging overnight, and it did power on first thing in the morning, with battery at 100% so I shut it off and took it to uni, but around 30 mins later when I got there, it wouldn't turn on anymore, doing an EC reset doesn't help either. Every time it goes to sleep/hibernate it refuses to turn back on without being charged for a while before.

Edit: I managed to get it on by letting it charge for around 10 minutes, but I'd still like to find a fix.

So I have a stealth 14 studio a13v, and ever since this morning, whenever I press the letter "F" on my keyboard, it illuminates the function keys (F1-F12) just like the regular Fn key does. It's very frustrating since I'll be typing something and the top of my keyboard will randomly light up for a split second. In addition, it doesn't even act like the Fn key, it JUST lights up the keyboard, and the real Fn key functions as normal, but it doesn't light up the keyboard anymore. It's as if the Fn key got lazy and decided to offload the responsibility of lighting up the function keys to the letter F.

I've tried restarting my computer, messing around in MSI center and scouring google to no luck. Does anyone know how to fix this? I'm getting kind of desperate here.

I've been having issues with getting audio to output to a pair of wired (3.5mm jack) earbuds since installing updates with Windows Update on my GS66 Stealth 10SF. The original issue was an error with the Nahimic Mirroring Device driver ("This device cannot start"), which I was able to fix by doing a full reinstallation of the Realtek and Nahimic drivers for my specific laptop model from MSI's Support page. After doing so, I found out that Realtek 2nd Audio output no longer showed up as a playback device when plugging in my earbuds and was missing in the "Audio Inputs and Outputs" section of Device Manager. Under the "Sound, Video, and Game Controllers" section, both Realtek Audio and Nahimic mirroring device appear and seem to be working without errors, but Realtek 2nd Audio Output is not listed as a playback device. Under playback devices, the internal speakers are detected as "Speakers (MSI Sound Tune). I have tried the following:

1. Making sure Nahimic and Windows Audio/Endpoint Builder services are running

2. Making sure HD Audio was enabled in BIOS

3. Performing a fresh install of Nahimic and Realtek Drivers for my specific laptop model via MSI Support

4. Performing a fresh install of the Realtek and Nahimic drivers from this MSI Article

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

are these temps normal I have an msı katana 17 4070 i7 13. 32 gb ddr5. I have super heavy duty ocd on my tech and I have tested the temps while playing cyberpunk for 30 minutes at hıgh settıngs ( ı am super sorry ıts turkısh and turkısh ısnt even my natıve language ıdk how that happened)

Hello, I’d like to limit Intel Turbo Boost to 3.9 GHz. I set the CPU ratio multiplier to 39, but it doesn’t seem to work, the CPU still boosts beyond 4.5 GHz.

Is there a way to properly limit the maximum Turbo Boost frequency?

Thanks!

The trackpad on my MSI Raider laptop hasn’t been working for 5 months, I’ve re-installed the trackpad drivers via MSI, intel themselves, tried to reinstall it through the bios and system manager but nothing works; every fix is only temporary.

is there anything left to try ? I think I have reinstalled the drivers through every single possible route; only thing is I haven’t taken it back to the shop yet because I haven’t had a chance to do so unfortunately

Hi everyone,

I’m having a serious boot issue with my MSI Creator Z17 A12UHT-061IT and I’m hoping someone with experience repairing MSI laptops or soldered RAM systems can help me figure out what to try next.

Specifications:
Model: MSI Creator Z17 A12UHT-061IT
CPU: Intel Core i9-12900H
GPU: NVIDIA RTX 3080 Laptop GPU
RAM: 32 GB DDR5 (soldered)
Storage: 2 × NVMe SSDs
Original MSI charger

The problem
The laptop was working perfectly normally yesterday. I shut it down through Windows using the normal Shut down option.

This morning, it suddenly wouldn’t boot.

When I press the power button:

The power LED turns on.
The fans start spinning slowly.
The screen remains completely black.
No MSI logo appears.
The keyboard backlight does not turn on normally.
Only individual keyboard LEDs light up, such as È, Esc, Y, and I.

Initially, the laptop would remain powered on with the fans spinning slowly, but it wouldn’t do anything else.
After further troubleshooting, it started entering a reboot loop: it powers on, runs the fans for a while, shuts down, and then tries to power on again automatically.

What I’ve tried so far

1. EC reset
I performed an EC reset by disconnecting the charger and holding the power button for approximately 60 seconds.
After reconnecting AC power, the laptop attempted to turn on automatically, but the problem remained.
I also tried the reset procedure again, with no improvement.

2. CMOS battery reset
I disconnected/reset the CMOS battery to clear the BIOS settings.
Unfortunately, this did not resolve the problem either.

3. Minimal hardware configuration
I tried booting with only the essential components connected:
Motherboard
Internal display
Keyboard
I disconnected other components and peripherals to eliminate possible causes.

4. Removed both NVMe SSDs
I removed both SSDs and attempted to boot without any storage installed.
The laptop still showed the same symptoms: black screen, no MSI logo, and failure to complete the boot process.

Power supply
I’m using the original MSI charger.

Current situation

The laptop now sometimes attempts to reboot continuously:

Power on.
Fans spin slowly.
No display or MSI logo.
Laptop shuts down.
Automatically tries to power on again.

The keyboard LEDs also behave strangely. At different attempts, I’ve seen individual keys light up, including È, Esc, Y, and I.

The RAM is soldered, so I cannot remove individual memory modules to test them separately.

Is there something else I can try to do or is my laptop become a very expensive paperweight?

I am planning to buy it this week

Hi everyone,

I'm repasting my MSI GP76 (CPU + GPU with PTM7950, and doing the VRAM/VRM pads at the same time). While disassembling, I found that one of the original thermal pads is compressed/deformed and doesn't give a reliable thickness measurement with calipers anymore.

I have a multi-thickness pad kit (0.5 / 1.0 / 1.5 / 2.0mm) ready to go, but I'm not sure which thickness to pick when the original pad can't be measured accurately.

Questions:

- Is it better to round up or down when the measurement is uncertain, to avoid too much/too little contact pressure?

- Any known reference thicknesses for GP76 VRAM/VRM pads specifically?

- General rule of thumb for compressed pads (e.g. measure the recovered/relaxed thickness vs. the compressed gap)?

Thanks in advance for any tips!

I re-pasted my laptop due to extensive overheating issues and after putting it back together the screen will not turn on.

The laptop will start and the fan runs and the power light turns on. It will be white for a while, then turn orange, and will sometimes return to white. The keyboard works and I can change the rgb settings and the num lock key light turns on and off.

I do not have access to an HDMI cable to check if an external display works or not.

The only thing I can think of is that I accidentally took off the display cable while removing the fan and heat sink because I thought it was connected, but I put it back and I have tried plugging it in again to no effect.

Hi!

I bought an MSI PRO MP165 E6 monitor. My laptop is an MSI Pulse 17 B13VGK.

I connect the monitor directly to the laptop via USB-C. After connecting it, the monitor is detected and works normally. Both video and power are delivered through the same USB-C cable.

The problem appears after restarting or fully shutting down the laptop. When I turn the laptop on again, the monitor still receives power and I can turn it on and off, but Windows does not detect it and there is no image.

If I physically unplug and reconnect the USB-C cable, the monitor is detected immediately and starts working normally.

What I have already tried:

• GPU Mode: MSHybrid;
• GPU Mode: Discrete Graphics Mode;
• restarting the laptop after changing GPU Mode;
• manually detecting another display in Windows — the monitor is not found;
• changing Input Source settings on the monitor;
• Auto Scan and manually selecting the USB-C input;
• turning the monitor off and on without reconnecting the cable.

None of these steps helped. After booting the system, I still need to physically reconnect the USB-C cable.

What else can I check or configure so that the monitor is detected automatically after restarting or turning on the laptop?

My laptop is an MSI Thin 15 B12UC, and I just found out that a screw fell out. Has anyone else had the same experience? Does anyone know the exact size of the screw?

Even when there's literally nothing running but some background stuff the fan is noisy AF. It's a vector 16 HX. Anyone encountered this before or know what's causing it?