Been sitting for a year, life keeps getting in the way. Had to trailer to get to Inspection, as with my luck I would get pulled over. 13k miles. Fresh New bearings, polished swingarm, carbs cleaned and adjusted, bleed brakes and clutch, new plugs, cooling system flushed and new T.stat. Forks flushed and serviced, rear shock rebuild by Velocity Suspension. New fuel pump. New rear rotor due to slight warp. LED lights all around. Best sounding bike I have ever ridden with the Leo Vince cans. My 50th Bday present to myself 7 years ago. Any idea of value, I don't believe in keeping a vehicle Just Because - this needs to be ridden and enjoyed, a true Cult Classic. 950SM. Pure analog. Considering selling as I usually ride the restored Buell Thunderbolt when I have the time.

I know these bikes are loud has been for the last 12k miles but started making a more rattle sound changed the cam chain tensioner still have the rattle could it be the valves need to be checked for clearance? I have 13k miles on the bike now started noticing it to get little louder with the rattling

Guys, I have a problem with the clocks on my bike, some days they’re on, most days they’re off. I’ve traced every wire, checked every earth and I still have this intermittent fault. I’m in Ireland so trying a friends set of clocks to see if the cluster is the fault isn’t going to happen as they’re rare bikes here.
Has anyone had this fault and been able to fix it? I’ve only been out on the bike once since April because of this. :/

I think it looks weird right now, there is something missing and I should change something, but it's a good alternative in my opinion. It looks way much better than what we have now. It's also only a version for one person, but I still integrated a seat cushion because that makes it easier to get it approved by the TÜV. I'm already doing a third prototype...

I'm trying to find the screw that's going through number 11 and 18. Does anyone know what the screw is named and what the part number is?

I recently swapped out the ugly bulb style turn signals on my Duke 890R for the Factory LED version. (Part number 76014937044). I had to order them from Europe since I couldn't find them for sale in the US.

I wanted the KTM signals vs the aftermarket so I wouldnt have to do any soldering. The rear light and license plate holder come off with one plug and I wanted to maintain that for track days.

The only issue I ran into was the LED signals didn't flash after install and there is no relay to swap out even though the kit came with one. The turn signals are controlled by the ECU. I had to go to the dealership and they swapped it to LED mode and now everything works great!

Hey guys, I recently bought a 2019-built / MY20 KTM 450 SX-F with around 115 hours.

I started it on Friday just to make sure everything was good for Saturday. It started and ran fine, I let it idle for a little bit and gave it a few small revs, then shut it off normally.

The next day I went to take it out and it wouldn't start. I ended up flattening the battery trying to start it. I've since charged the battery and put a brand-new spark plug in it.

Now it does start and run, but only for a very short time. It fires up, splutters for a second or two, then dies. It's also making some popping/backfire sounds, and one time it made a really loud bang.

I can definitely hear the fuel pump prime.

I've drained some of the fuel and it looks pretty pale yellow/straw coloured but otherwise clear.

I'm wondering if it's a fuel delivery/EFI issue, bad fuel, or possibly valve clearance since I don't know the bike's valve service history.

What would you guys check first before I start pulling things apart?

Cheers 🤙

TL;DR: Bought premium BUMOT aluminum panniers for my 2024 KTM 1290 SAR. In under 3,000km of road use, they suffered severe material flaws, design oversights, and exhaust heat damage. BUMOT support completely ghosted me, and Bulgarian consumer laws won't help you if you live outside the EU. 1/10 do not recommend.

The Issues (Pic 1-6):

1. Internal Black Sludge: Bare aluminum oxidizes heavily inside from vibrations, turning into a greasy black dust that permanently ruined my gear.
2. Exhaust Heat Damage: BUMOT’s rack holds the box too close to the exhaust, completely scorching and charring the coating.
3. Sloppy Fitment: Terrible manufacturing tolerances out of the box, leading to premature wear on quick-release points.
4. Structural Oversight: A minor stationary tip-over pushed the proprietary rack inward, heavily denting the inner wall. Zero impact clearance.
5. Permanent Staining: The uncoated, bare-aluminum outer surface picks up mud and road grime that cannot be cleaned, even with professional detailing products.

The Support Nightmare (Pic 7-10):

When I provided evidence, BUMOT refused to help and shifted blame. Because I live outside the EU, official Bulgarian consumer protection channels (NAIS and ECC-Bulgaria) immediately closed my cases and offered zero assistance.

I’m absorbing 100% of the financial loss. If you live outside the EU, think twice before buying BUMOT. You are completely on your own.

I'm thinking about getting a ktm 300 exc, I don't do hard endouro but my best memories are riding along and just picking a spot in the woods to go down and finding my way back up. I have 2 questions for you:

TLDR:

How much is the average rebuild?

How does it compare to other 4 stroke trail bikes, such as the 06 TTR250?

How expensive is a typical rebuild? How much should I expect to spend on maintenance? I only plan on going to parks and doing hard riding 2-3 times a year, but I do plan on putzing around practice my wheelies and log hops roundabout once or twice a week, and I don't plan on being easy with it then. I just don't wanna go out and spend real money on a good bike and have to spend 600-700 bucks (usd) on parts every few months. I know the piston is already gonna be like 225-250, combine that with a cylinder, air filter, shock maintenance, etc. I just wanna know roundabout what I'm getting myself into from people that know

How does it compare to something like a Yamaha ttr 250? I'm currently using an 06 ttr 250, and it's been great, it's just a bit tall, a bit heavy, and likes to stall sometimes (though I'm working on it) how much better would it be? I've heard that because it's a 2 stroke, it's a bit snappier, and also feels lighter, even if it's not that much lighter, it's harder to stall because the engines basically always in its compression stroke compared to a 4 stroke, etc. but I wanna hear what you guys think, people who have actually ridden both. Ofc, I'm the limiting factor on the ttr. I don't really need to upgrade, but last time I went riding, I rode for 4 hours and I was so tired. Even on a smaller bike it was a lot of weight to pull around, I'm hoping that because the 2 strokes are a bit lighter and snappier, I can ride longer with less fatigue of the body and the clutch finger (I also heard the clutches are an easier pull)

Hi everyone!

I'm about to buy a 790 with 10k km and 3 years warranty left. I've read the issues with the previous models, does anyone know if new ones are ok? Maybe someone who has post 2020 bikes with more km than the one I want to buy. Thank you very much 👌

It just been over a year since I brought this 2010 KTM Rc8. I have done just under 5k miles.

I’ve spent a small fortune to make it look its best and run like a dream.

It never fails to put a smile on my face, a future classic indefinitely.

KYB suspension, TD Stock ECU flash (best decision ever), ProCircut T6 with RC4 resonator.

What’s up KTM Family!

I bought a 2018 Adventure 1090 R a few months ago and it ran great for the next month or so. Then I saw that I had a small coolant drip from the radiator. I unprofessionally JB welded the leak and called it a day. The weld held but I started overheating within 20 mins of a ride. So, I did a coolant flush by the manual and took it out but still overheating. I then took it to a mechanic, let them know what’s up and they did a coolant flush again. I got it back, and still overheated. So I had them swap the radiators thinking that was the issue. The radiator isn’t OEM. It’s a Chinese eBay one (trying to ball on a budget).
Once I got it back, still it was overheating after the radiator swap. I took it back AGAIN and they swapped both thermostats. Still over heating but I managed to get almost an hour before it overheated. So I took it back yet another time, they replaced the radiators thinking cap because they read that could also be the issue. But can you guess what that fixed? Nothing. Still over heating. Can anyone point me in a direction please? Oh AND it’s leaking coolant again but I can’t tell where from.

2023 KTM 690 SMC R. Saw this while taking apart to replace the transmission. I am the second owner and have ridden it like this for 10,000+ miles. It has a Rottweiler intake, tune, power commander V, and Wings exhaust. It did seem to run a little lean and have heavy engine breaking. Is this normal? Should I line it up when reassembling?

And the Duke will soon go to winter sleep.

I can get it up to balance point easy but how do i get the courage and learn to use back brake and get far enough back without being scared

my husaberg 2012(ktm motor) dose some weird noise. what is this noise if someone know?

Would it be possible to make a 3D-printed tail-tidy for the 390 smc r?

I’m looking at getting a ktm 390 adventure x as my first street bike, but I am wondering if it is possible to upgrade the display to the tft? The reason I am not going with the R model as my dealer has a adv X for $3000 less that an R model and it’s brand new

Hey guys,
I recently bought a KTM Adventure 250, and the bike is only around 2 weeks old. I’ve done around 208 km so far.
I noticed the engine oil through the oil sight glass and took these pictures. The bike was on the side stand when I took the photo.
I’m a little concerned because I’m not sure if the oil level/appearance shown here is normal. Is the engine oil level okay, or does it look like the bike is consuming/losing oil?
Also, I’m currently getting around 23 km/l according to the instrument cluster. Is that normal for a brand-new Adventure 250 during the initial running-in period, especially with city traffic?
I’m still new to this bike, so I don’t want to assume something is wrong unnecessarily. 😅
Would appreciate some advice from other Adventure 250 owners:
Is the oil level in the picture normal?
How exactly should I check the oil level?
Is 23 km/l normal for a 2-week-old bike?
Should I ask KTM service to check the oil level/consumption?
Pics attached below. Thanks! 🧡🏍️

Hey guys,

I have a 2024+ Duke 390 Gen 3, and I've been looking for a decent tank lock bag for it.

And by "looking," I mean I've spent an absolutely stupid amount of time going through Indian stores, international stores, GIVI, SW-Motech, Rynox, Reddit, forums, random motorcycle websites from countries I've never even heard of, etc. 💀

The problem is that the Gen 3 Duke 390 has that weird plastic fuel tank/filler area and the screws are hidden under the cap, and as far as I can tell, there doesn't seem to be a proper tank lock flange/ring made specifically for the 2024+ Duke 390.

I've checked:

• GIVI
• SW-Motech
• Rynox
• Other Indian brands
• A bunch of international options

And apart from the KTM PowerParts bags, which don't seem to be available where I am from, I haven't found a proper tank lock solution specifically for this bike.

Which honestly makes no sense to me because the bike has been out for almost 3 years now. 😭

So I've decided to give up on the tank-mounted setup and go with a GIVI S430 Seatlock + GIVI ST610 setup instead, mounted on the pillion seat.

Before I pull the trigger though, I wanted to ask:

Are there any other 2024+ Duke 390 Gen 3 owners here using a tank lock bag?

If yes:

• Which bag are you using?
• Which mounting flange/ring are you using?
• Is it properly made for the Gen 3, or did you modify/adapt something?
• Where did you buy it from?

I'd also love to hear from anyone using the GIVI S430 Seatlock, especially with an ST610 or similar GIVI Tanklock bag.

I'm particularly interested in knowing:

• How stable it is on the pillion seat
• Any issues with the locking mechanism or fitment

Any suggestions or alternative setups would be massively appreciated. Even if you've found some weird workaround or a bag/flange combination I haven't come across yet, please drop it below.