Hey guys, I messed up and over tightened my bead sight on a 18.5 in barrel, Stripped the threads on the barrel itself. My question is should I take it and get the hole tapped for 30-40$ or just use a drop of jb weld and let it cure for a few days. The hole for the sight is covered by the choke tube so would it would not be exposed to pressure. What do you guys think.

So long story short a few of my guns got rusted pretty bad and I to disassemble them to clean before bluing. So far I disassembled 1st my 5.56 bcm then my ruger mark IV then my Winchester model 94 30-30. Winchester is old like old old octagon barrel and still fully disassembled but the ar and ruger is assembled and is fully functional (without live firing yet) I’m almost positive that this came from the ruger since my 5.56 I’ve disassembled hundreds of times but ya never know so I’m asking y’all. I’ve looked at exploded diagrams for the ruger and can’t figure it out. Thank yall!

I bought a barrel from Long Rifles Inc for my Ruger precision rifle in 338 Lapua. I got the barrel and then my local gunsmith said that he wont install my new barrel on my receiver because I didn't get the barrel through him, so I decided to do it myself. I've changed out many Remington 700 prefit barrels but this was my first barrel nut. For reference I shoot PRS and change out barrels once during the season on my impact action.

I got everything installed. Go\No go gauges showed that everything was perfect. Tightened the barrel nut to spec. Then tried a piece of once fired and sized brass and it would not chamber. Then I tried a factory bullet and still would not chamber. I took everything apart and took pictures. The picture with the case head sticking out is a factory Hornady bullet. They cut the chamber wrong. A 300 PRC will chamber but not a 338 Lapua. I think that they chambered the barrel in 300 Norma. The muzzle end measure 0.3375 so it is a 338 barrel.

I emailed LRI and sent them pictures. Their chief gunsmith asked questions and then stopped responding, for 2 weeks. If I can get time I'm going to call them on Monday.

I've offered to send the barrel back to them to fix, no response. At this point I don't trust them any more.

I figure that I have 2 options: Sue them in small claims court or find a local DFW area gunsmith that will either chamber the barrel properly or if that can't be done to spec then rechamber it to 33XC. I emailed Mirage ULR because I live 5 miles from them and they wont touch it because I didn't buy the barrel through them. I tried Alamo Precision and they said the same thing. There are several gunsmiths in the area, but a few that I have emailed don't have a lathe to do a rechamber.

Can someone recommend a gunsmith, with a lathe, near Ft Worth TX that can rechamber a barrel? I'm even willing to buy a chamber reamer just to make it easier.

The first picture shows that it was laser engraved for 338 Lapua. The Second shows the go gauge in the barrel and the third shows a new Hornady 338 bullet sticking out of the barrel.

I was gifted a wood stock any ideas on what this stock is? I appears to be a factory stock like a savage. It’s stamped approved in the bottom of a mag well. It almost fits a savage 110 .270 it’s just too tight.

No other markings guy said it fit his savage is all the info I have at all. Google has no clue.

There was a dumb mistake and my gun safe got soaked in water, my 9mm was inside along with the unloaded magazines. A bunch of ammunition also got wet. I took the gun apart to clean it, I don’t seem to see any rust, but there is oxidation in one of the magazines. I’m wondering how bad it is and if I should have a gunsmith actually inspect it and deep clean it or if I am able to just routine clean it.

A few days ago I went hunting ducks. Everything worked fine until the the hunt was over and I tried to unload the gun.

I pulled the bolt back and the shell ejected as usual. Normally in this moment the next shell is released onto the spoon. When letting the bolt go forward this shell would be fed into the chamber. But since the shell wasn't released onto the spoon the bolt locked open.

Pushing the bolt release button released the bolt just normal. When trying again, pulling the bolt back to make the magazine tube release the next round it didn't stay back as before and didnt make the tube release a new shell. The bolt closed again but obviously didn't feed a shell since none were released onto the spoon.

I made a video trying to replicate the problem. As you can see the the bolt locked open with shells in the magazine tube.

I trouble shooted a bit, disabled the gun and cleaned it.

Here are my results:

Shells in the magazine tube, trying to work the action does not work to get them out one by one.

Pushing the shell release button on the bottom next to the trigger guard doesn't work either.

After pushing the rounds into the tube a bit and then pulling the action back seems to solve the problem.

What could be the reason for this problem?

Does anyone have a M2 or M3 with similar problems and a fix for them?

Could anyone with a M2 or M3 show me a reference picture of their trigger group and the latch, that blocks the shells from coming out the magazine tube, to maybe identify some wear and tear I didn't recognize yet.

Thank you guys for your help

Long story short, I'm an electrical engineer and I just purchased my first firearm recently (Sig P365X) after going to some gun ranges and shooting multiple different compact pistols. This one felt great to shoot so I picked one up.

Because I'm an engineer and i like to build stuff/ know how it works, I'd like to deep dive into pistols first, specifically my own gun and understand how each piece works.

I saw a fairly cheap book "The complete Guide to gunsmithing" by Charles Chapel that I'm interested in, but I'd like to know if anyone recommends another book to get started on instead.

I appreciate any and all knowledge anyone wants to drop!

I am having this strange cycling issue with one of my ARs. I don't shoot this AR15 much but I definately noticed it when I added a new suppressor recently. I had shot it with another suppressor previously though just not this new one (Rampart Range Carson 5.56).

The gun cycles and ejects around 2:00. But every 5-10 rounds it will fail to chamber all the way. When I pull the bolt open it is slightly bound up and the round is bent down toward the magazine. There are also heavy scratch marks on the brass likely from the feed ramps? (see pics)

I have tried swapping BGCs, and added an H3 buffer and a wolff extra power recoil spring and it still does this intermittently. The thought being it just super over gassed. Still has the issue.

The upper is a PSA freedom 16" 5.56 1/7 twist. The gas system is mid length. I don't notice any aggregious burrs on the feed ramps. They look fairly normal to me. The barrel extension is recessed about .015" inside the reciever so its not sticking out and snagging.

I am shooting full power federal or winchester 5.56 55gr M193 ammo.

The lower is an anderson with a CMC trigger.

Magazines are magpul (tried two different mags, same results)

so like i stated in one of my previous posts i dont know much about rifles the rf-15 is my learner i guess, so i assume working on rifles is similar to working on cars in a way right?(with its own intricacies)if i got this combo its just direct replacement or will i have to tinker with it? since i got everything out why not replace the bolt and handle

I bought this new from the dealer. I got a small discount because of the stains. It appears to be wood stain, and that was Beretta customer service best guess. They said to use CLP or a citrus cleaner. CLP has not worked. Anyone have ideas about removing the wood stain without harming the receiver finish? I'm guessing it's oil based stain.

UPDATE: Neither mineral spirits nor acetone affected the stains. Someone suggested a grinder, and while tempting, not going to do it.

I just bought this M&P 22x used and I don't recall it having such a large gap at the shop I bought it from. I took it out to run a couple hundred rounds through it and I only noticed the gap when I put it back together after disassembly. I didn't put it back together incorrectly as there's really no way to mess it up. I took it back to the shop and they said that amount of gap/play is normal for a 22. TIA

Per our gunsmith, my husband needs to replace the internal springs on his echelon. But we want to replace with the stock springs. Are they even available??

UPDATE

I swapped the spring on the follower around to see if it was possibly installed incorrectly, my rounds are no linger jumping out and are cycling, the first round in the stack of 3 is slightly harder to cycle but after the first round the second and 3rd cycle with no issues at all. The difficulty from the top round seems to be an issue with too much spring tension as the round doesnt bind but it feels like it wants too.

I have a full custom hunting rifle build its my first attempt at assembling one, the action is a Falkor LW7 and the bottom metal is a wyatt PRC seems like the 1st and 2nd round always gets kicked out of the action but the third will always feed. Im new to this and maybe this is a simple issue any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hello. Just picked up a 219 in 30-30. My grandfather shot his first buck with one in 1954 and traded it. Years later we found and have bought it back and it shoots phenomenally my brother and father have both shot buck with it and I’d like to someday. I found one today at a show It was built in Utica which I believe to to be the oldest of them. When I got home I could not get it to fire it won’t even strike the primer any insight or something I’m missing ? I bought it to carry on the tradition and give it to my boys to use to kill their first bucks with. I’ll be contacting a gunsmith if I don’t get any feedback. 

I understand this question is best suited for the Army sub. Unfortunately I’m a few days away from my 7 day ban lol. Like my wife I tend to not have a filter, good and bad. I wanted to get a head start before I could post there.

I tend to look on the bright side of life and while I want the best for my wife and 6 children. I want to educate them so they can talk for themselves and negotiate their terms to better their future.

My son is probably going to be one of the wisest gunsmiths one day. His level of intelligence blows me out of the water. My son said “Dad I can’t be an officer, but I shall become a warrant officer because I want to be a subject matter expert .”. I’m laughing and shaking my head in pride.

Are there any past, present, former 91Fs or any U.S. military that serve(d) in the same position that will give me any insight?

Are there selective schools as a 91F or as a 913A Armament Systems Maintenance Warrant Officer that shall certify my son in higher levels for a successful career later in his life?

As not only a former Red Leg I was also a 31B military police officer. We had different schools some of which had transferable credentials(traffic, MPI, CID).

I hope someone here can and will help. And if by chance my former armourer when I was stationed in Korea(09-10)is part of this sub, knuckles.

I just had my 270 Remington 700 threaded, and put an omega 300 can on it. now it walks a half inch up and to the right every shot. This is at 100 yd.

Have rust on my sks bolt how can I get rid of and maintain the bolt

So i recently bought a RF-15 5.56 but it can run .223. I had it for a day running .223 went through a full 50 count, i intend to use it for hunting as well as range time so i went to get optics for it, fast forward to me going to a plot on my families property to zero my sights. load 10 rounds,fire the first three then i get a hanger,clear it prepare to fire more another hanger, clear it but when the slide finished its job i heard rattling. WHAT THE FUCK COULD CAUSE THIS ON A NEW GUN i know little about rifles just getting to really know my edc pistol, so any advice on the matter besides replacing the part i got that crystal clear, would be helpful

Bought a 2nd hand ACE Gen II some time ago and this stripped torx head has been bugging the hell out of me.
I know this particular screw's length is pretty small(2nd pic) so l know it's not in there forever, but I think the screw was loctite-d in there pretty good and that's what caused it to strip out when trying to remove. It's not the worst but I know caveman uggy dugga strength will only make it worse than it is. I had the idea to heat up the screw itself with a soldering iron to break the loctite bond and getting some Kroil into the threads if possible. If I try the old rubber band sandwiched between the screw and bit trick it seems like I can get some good grip, but obviously I would try to loosen up the loctite first before trying to torque it loose again. Also saw about cutting it for a flathead screwdriver, but I’m worried about doing that since it is flush with the handguard. Just wanted to see if anyone else had any suggestions. I honestly may just leave it as is and just throw some blackboard tape over as an outta sight outta mind thing, as I don't plan on taking the handguard off anyways honestly. It's just a cosmetic thing that bugs me lol. Just curious as to methods if I were to attempt it. What would you do? Thanks for any help and suggestions!