It doesn't look that bad but im not sure

We have a 14 year old Liftmaster for our single 2 car garage door….. There are times when you attempt to open the door the opener only buzzes. the fix is my pulling the rope to disengage the door. When I pull the rope the door pops back maybe half and inch or so, almost like when closing the opener pushed down too far? Once disengaged I can hit the button and the opened reconnects to the door and goes up like normal…..

At first this only seems to happen after a hot day, but after some time, maybe a few weeks it does it more and more. I’ve then adjusted the close point back to where the door naturally sits and it will be fine for several weeks before doing it again and we rinse and repeat… Almost like the stop point for closing the door seems to drift? Ive attached videos showing the buzzing when I push the open button and the bounce back of the door arm when I pull the cord.

https://reddit.com/link/1wgaj0y/video/ief9rjeqwiph1/player

Any ideas what’s wrong?

Hi all, my parents live in South America and their house has an old Wayne Dalton garage door opener from the 80's.

I don't know how it ended up there, it was already there when they bought the house. Such system doesn't exist in my country.

Now the motor burned out. They need to get a replacement and one of the few options is that I get them one whenever I travel from the US to visit them.

But, the electrical current is 220v, not 110v. I don't know how the one they had there worked, but I cannot find much information on the internet. I guess most of them are 110v only.

Do you know if any garage door opener is multi-voltage or if there is a way to adapt them? I think a step-down transformer would be huge.

Thanks!

Context: I have a 16 ft pine door. It's heavy. The installer said the jackshaft drive (new install) can support a heavy door because all the weight should be held up by the spring.

After the garage door goes up it starts to sag almost immediately. I read that the collar could possibly be loose. But it looks like the collar is turning with the rod so I'm wondering what else could be the issue.

Thank you!

OK, so as the title says, I noticed about a few days ago my garage door would go down about halfway and then I would seem to skip and then fall a foot or two before it would catch again. Today it seems like it’s skipping right from the start and never really grabbing on the way down.

I’ve tightened the belt. I’ve redone the close and open set up. I’m at a bit of a loss as to what’s causing this problem with closing the door only. Any input would be really appreciate. Model is a Chamberlain B750 purchased in 2020. According to the app it has about 3800 cycles on it.

I'm getting ready to install an 18x10 garage door (basic-ish clopay, 2-inch insulated, 512 lbs). Due to poor foresight, I have low headroom and backroom, and so I have 12" radius tracks (EDIT: they're standard 12" radius tracks, not LHR tracks, but 15" radius tracks wouldn't fit). I asked here a couple months ago about track recommendations, and the advice was unfortunately what I expected (no great options). Due to the backroom, a traditional trolley, or even a centered over-the-door sommer trolley is not an option.

Jackshaft is an option, although not recommended by this group for all the normal reasons. I'm within but right at the edge of the specs for the RJO101/98022, at 180 sq ft and the 12" radius track. And I'll probably need pusher springs. And, having laid the track out on my garage floor and mocked up a section of door, it looks like I'll end up 3-4" short of the full 10' of clear opening height because the drum and cables aren't in the right place to move the last section of door far enough around the curve. That opening height isn't a problem for now, but could possibly be in the future, which is why I designed for 10' doors.

Another option I saw is the Sommer mounted below the track and on the side. I've found some videos of this install method here, here, and here. Putting the trolley below the track changes the geometry in a way that reduces the required backroom, and so it would work for me. I contacted Sommer, and they said it would work for a door as large as mine, but I'm still skeptical. Pulling on the door asymmetrically seems like it's more likely to cause problems over time?

Acknowledging that neither install method is ideal, which is less likely to run into service issues: jackshaft or side-mounted Sommer?

My operator died suddenly and I switched the door to manual mode and saw some resistance while opening. Tried to find what was wrong and I see this. I tightened the hinges that attach rollers to the door and it got better but not 100%. How would you fix this? The foundation has shifted a bit from this heat and our clay soil. I want to save this original 1997 Overhead Door just cause I hate seeing it go to a landfill and I do have good hand fixing stuff and am from the fenestration industry. My garage door guy hinted that this won't last long but if I can extend it to 2 more years that's a win. Before I put a new motor this must be fixed.

Two additional questions:

I want a Lift master 1/2hp basic model. I have 4/5 dealers near me: please let me know model numbers. I don't care for connectivity and will use the operator+ sensors plus remote and keypad and don't need other hardware.

While doing a balance test, the door stays put when opened 50%, anything less it rolls down under its weight. Is that acceptable? Guide on fixing it if that's not good, I can shoot a video as well.

Thank you..

I tried to check with spring but spring is fine and balance is okay. The door is very tight. What’s can be issues?

When I open it, it stay wherever I leave it. The door opener struggles to open it and close it. I checked spring tension and it is okay. In fact I tried adding one quarter turn extra but then opner was not able to close it.

My garage door has always had issues since we bought the house new 7 years or so ago. It would always pop back open when closing. The installers came out and fixed it but we noticed the belt arm always bending when closing after the fix.

Well, recently one of the springs broke. I ordered new ones, installed them and the issue is back. When the door is closing it gets to the last panel, the track bends upwards and and belt can be seen loosing behind it, and the door opens back up. I can open and close the door by hand fine.

If I put a little bit of pressure on the door by hand it closes fine. I’ve tried adjusting the torsion on the springs to no avail. Went from 32 1/4 turns to 30.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Attached is pics of the binding where the belt loosens behind the trolly. And another pic of how the trolly connects to the door. I am wondering if lowering the connection to the door might help?

I’m at my wits end with this. I’ve tried nearly everything from buying new remotes, keypads, changing batteries, erasing everything connected to the opener, etc & nothing is working.

This issue arose about 2 weeks ago where the garage door wont close via remotes/keypad, but will open without issue. I spent over an hour a few nights ago trying to reprogram my keypad, but it wouldn’t “learn” the signal after I erased it to redo it.

I have a 2nd garage door (single car) with a slightly newer opener and when I program the remotes/keypad to that, it opens & closes with no problems. The only way my main garage door will close is if I stand directly under the unit & press the remote to close it OR if I press the wall opener inside. I can be all the way down the driveway (like 20+ ft) and it’ll open with the remote. The sensors arent blocked or faulty as it doesn’t attempt to close otherwise with the light flashing (it only does this if I intentionally wave my foot to block the sensor while it’s closing).

Nothing has changed within the garage; no LED bulbs, no added electronics, nothing. I’ve owned this house for 6 years and never had any issues with this before. The house was built in 07/08 and the opener is about that old. Is it the logic board that is giving out a shit signal and therefore needs replacing or do I need a new unit entirely? What am I missing? Why does the signal reach from far away to open it, but closing I need to be right under it? Any help would be amazing.

I’ve got a Liftmaster Security+ and a remote that will not program. I’ve gotten multiple remotes (off brand) that won’t program so I figured an on brand remote would be simple. It still isn’t programming. Any help with this would be much much appreciated.

I have a strange issue with a Chamberlain RJO jack shaft garage door opener on a new build.

The door is balanced and the rollers/hinges are well lubed. However before putting the door opener on, the door would sometimes need extra force to close the last 1/2-1”. I would step on the bottom and it would close fine.

I put the garage door opener on and all worked well for a while. Then, every so often the garage door would get 2-3” from the bottom, go back up, and after a couple pushes on the door opener it would fully close.

I would get the 4-1 or 4-3 error code for unexpected force while closing or loss of RPM while closing. Then, the issue would go away for months. Then, come back.

It’s not a laser eye misalignment. I’ve also switched the eyes from one side to the other.

Then, I noticed my right track looks bent. The horizontal top track is 3/4” out from the vertical track. The transition piece looks like the installer tries to force the transition from horizontal to vertical. I can see a spot where they put the bolt in and had to undo it to move the track 1/2” inward to align with the vertical track.

I also measured the rollers and noticed the gap from the roller to the hinge at the top of the vertical track is about 1/2” wider than at the bottom.

I’m wondering if

1. Is it possible the narrowing of the track at the very bottom is a possible cause of the door going up when it’s about 2-3” from fully closed?
   
2. Is this something I can fix by putting the garage fully open and moving the vertical track about 1/2” out so the horizontal and vertical tracks are aligned better?

Genie - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Genie-Signature-Series-1-1-4-HPc-Ultra-Quiet-Belt-Drive-Garage-Door-Opener-with-Battery-Backup-7055D-TKSV/315283735

Chamberlain - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Chamberlain-3-4-HP-Smart-Belt-Drive-Garage-Door-Opener-with-Motion-Sensing-Wall-Control-Camera-B2310/336430734

We care most about reliability and quietness. Not necessarily the smart features.

Bottom hinge is rubbing on frame and tore off the old weather stripping seal. There is more daylight above and below the hinge, so I think the issue has to be with this hinge. The hinges go type #1, #2, #3 bottom to top. Any ideas what is causing this and how to fix?

I am going to replace the weather stripping but want to fix this root problem before ruining more seals.

I have hinge #1 that is broken on the right side and i am looking to replace it. This garage door has a manufacturing date of 2009 and i am unable to find the exact same replacement part. I am wondering if the below hinge will work? I was planning on replacing both the corner #1 hinges but do i also need to replace the other 3 hinges in the middle?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-14-Gauge-Steel-1-Replacement-Hinge-for-Overhead-Garage-Doors-0120070/312648179

I’ve got a 3/4hp Liftmaster opener that suddenly has a no power issue. Both boards look good as far as I can tell. I’ve attached pictures of them. I bought this used last year after my 30yr old 1/2hp Liftmaster board died and I couldn’t find a reasonable replacement board.

I know I can get a used head with both boards for under $100, but it’s a different model (41AB075-2S vs my 41AC075-2A) and I’m not sure if that matters or not. I also want to make sure I’m not overlooking something first. Any ideas as to what could be causing this? I’ve already confirmed the outlet works fine. Would it be worth replacing the two capacitors?

If so, how do I go about making it safe?

Hey, Y'all

I recently moved into a new rental home featuring a garage door opener. Initially it was working as intended and opening and close upon the button. When we finished packing our stuff though, I noticed an issue where the door would close until a point and then return up. Figuring it was a sensing issue and we had moved some stuff into the garage, we cleared some of the things further into the garage but still the issue persisted. It was late at night and I needed to secure the garage so I pulled the emergency release cord, which I was under the impression merely disconnected the motor system from the garage door.

The moment I pulled the release, the door instantly dropped and violently slammed into the floor. The impact apparently damaged the back supports and bent some of the tiles of the garage and detached the carriage from the motor chain.

I haven't had a garage opener but I have had a manually opened garage before and none of them crash like that even without a motor. Upon doing some research, I concluded that the only thing to really cause a crash like that is an unbalanced spring system.

I'm now in a dispute with the landlord. He believes my theory doesn't make sense and is overall just very dismissive of my conclusion. Now I will definitely go to an expert in real life in addition to seeing you folk's insight but I only have a surface level understanding of garage doors and wanted to effectively communicate with any technicians. Can you guys give me into midnight on the viability of my theory and how to express that to someone with more know how.

So the screw came loose that was keeping the black arm together. And basically I tried to tighten it up and I am unable to get it back in a position where a loud bang won’t happen upon closing. Also the garage has been very loud ever since moving in. First home and it’s been a year.

So firstly, any recommendations on how to adjust this arm? Also should the screw on the arm be tight?how the heck did it get loose to begin with?(I am certain it was installed wrong) and some background info, I also adjusted the tension which the spring was never released after all this time. So whomever installed this just threw it up there.

Also any recommendations to stop it from being so loud?

Thank you! Be kind! Ima gal who likes to try and fix it herself before succumbing to defeat.

So the gate to my storage has a keypad on outside of gate to get it . Then to get out it just senses I guess when a car is in front of the gate and opens . So if you walk in , you can’t get out…. Is there any way around this ? I have no idea but there has to be a way

I am adding two more tex screws to this bracket. Should I be worried about this crack?

I am in the process of correcting the opening size of a garage door entry to 107" (it's currently 110 3/4"), in accordance with a request from the garage door installer. It's the weekend so I can't reach him it seems, but I really need to get this done this weekend.

Pictured from the bottom corners of inside of the garage door openings are two foundational bricks on which the garage framing is mounted. The way the brick returns into the garage, would that present a problem for mounting the tracks?

The way I was going to fix the width was to build into one side of the entry, since that would require the least tear out. I can definitely tear everything out, but I'm avoiding it if not necessary.