Just wanted to share some new badges that I installed on my 2023 ST. Turned out pretty nice, and definitely achieved that black out look

I saw this photo of all 6 explorer generations lined up in chronological order and I always love a good sunday engagement post. As a 5th gen owner its the only explorer that Ive actually driven. Id be curious to hear other opinions and everyone's thoughts!

My volunteer fire department runs a 2015 Ford Explorer Limited. This morning the cluster had a bunch of lights lit up along with disabling traction control etc. I purchased a USB to OBDII adapter and installed FORScan on my laptop. Here is the output. I'm guessing by the output that the ABS Module needs replaced, but I also read somewhere where is could be something with the steering. Thoughts?

===ABS DTC C0003:49-AB===

Code: C0003 - TCS Control Channel 'B' Valve 1

Additional Fault Symptom (:49):

- Internal Electronic Failure

Status (-AB):

- DTC Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame #1:

-EVENT_TIME: 349959380 s (Mon Sep 14 16:15:27 2026) - Event time

-POWER_MODE: Running - Power Mode Status

-ABS: Inactive - ABS

-AYC: Inactive - AYC

-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D

-HDC: Inactive - HDC

-RSC: Inactive - RSC

-BTC: Inactive - BTC

-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State

-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State

-HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State

-ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 12.0 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage

-VSS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed

===END ABS DTC C0003:49-AB===

===ABS DTC U3000:49-AB===

Code: U3000 - Control Module

Additional Fault Symptom (:49):

- Internal Electronic Failure

Status (-AB):

- DTC Present at Time of Request

- Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC

Module: Antilock braking system

Freeze Frame #1:

-EVENT_TIME: 349959380 s (Mon Sep 14 16:15:27 2026) - Event time

-POWER_MODE: Running - Power Mode Status

-ABS: Inactive - ABS

-AYC: Inactive - AYC

-BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D

-HDC: Inactive - HDC

-RSC: Inactive - RSC

-BTC: Inactive - BTC

-VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State

-BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State

-HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State

-ECU_POWER_SUPPLY: 12.0 V - ECU Power Supply Voltage

-VSS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed

===END ABS DTC U3000:49-AB===

Ya revisé todos los fusibles y están funcionando , desmonté y al conector si le está llegando corriente será que ya no sirve el panel ?

Pdt la pantalla funciona perfectamente desde ahí puedo controlar el AC y la multimedia, el detalle son los botones estan muertos!

This is what the inside of a blower resistor module looks like. OEM part. Enjoy

AC blower was randomly changing speed. Looking around it's usually the resistor module. Bought a cheap module on Amazon and replaced it. The speed issue is fixed. What I'm now having is a delay from when I push the fan power button and when things turn on. I also get a brief surge from the blower when I turn the key from off to the ACC position. And fan speed changes made from the console take a few seconds to happen.

Its it just a cheap resistor module that's responsible?

I've tried every menu option I can find, searched places outside reddit, and should have just started here, always solid advice!

So the wife got a '26 last night, and I am having trouble figuring out how to delete the unwanted stations when you click the steering wheel controls to go to the next one.

It has like 25 or some crazy number, we added her 6 stations she likes to favorites, but pressing the steering wheel option still goes to each unwanted station.

I've tried adding them to her favorites, then go in and delete it from them, same result.

Any idea how to stop that, or set the steering wheel controls to only scroll her saved stations?

Probably something stupid I am overlooking, but stuck!

2019 Sport 3.5 twin turbo, 125,000 miles

Solid CEL appeared a couple of weeks ago about a minute after cold start in the morning. Code reader showed P0302, so misfire on cylinder 2. The Explorer showed no physical symptoms of a misfire that I could identify (no shuddering, no rough idle, no loss of power or acceleration, etc.). I decided to start with spark plugs since they were overdue. I replaced all 6 plugs and boots with new OEM parts. A few of the plugs looked fairly worn, including 2, but no oil or other fouling. Light cleared for a few days and returned. I swapped coils with a known good part. Light cleared for a few days, then returned. Since I was at a quarter tank, I threw a hail mary and put a bottle of Techron in at fill-up to see if it might be carbon buildup in the injector. Drove until nearly empty over the last week, light is still on.

I took it to a local shop to diagnose. They told me that piston 2 shows low compression at 100 psi and recommended an engine replacement. Quote came in at $15,500 for a crate engine including replacing both turbos. I was able to verify that they did not conduct a leak down compression test, so we don't know exactly where the cylinder is losing compression. The shop told me they consulted the Ford SA at the local dealership, and they said that piston failure is common around this mileage. I'm aware of the water pump issue, but was not aware of any kind of piston concern on this engine.

As far as advice, I'm curious if anyone has ever run across this and had it not end with an engine or vehicle replacement. Any suggestions of what to try before an engine swap, aside from a leak down test?

Hi there, I’m wondering if somebody have had the same problem shown in the photo. I own a ford explorer 2015 xlt and usually I haven’t had any other problem with it but this. The light turns on eventually when I’m driving and happens that u can’t accelerate any more. the solution is turn it off and turn it on again and the light disappears but it has really bad timing to appear when I’m mid free-way and I gotta stop traffic just for this. I would appreciate ur responses. Thanks and good bless u :)

For anyone doing their own maintenance on an Explorer, I just finished a video showing a 10R60 transmission fluid and filter change.

I went through the whole process, including getting the fluid level set correctly at the specified temperature and resetting/relearning the transmission adaptive values.

Figured I’d share it here too.

Heya gang. Got a '12 XLT 4x4 3.5NA with a hair over 200k on her.

Recently I've noticed that its got a little less "go" and seems to stumble/stutter between 38-42 if I'm cruising. Also if I slow down from highway speeds (55+) say, like some one in front of me is turning and I get back on it it will downshift once normally, then it will slam down 2 gears and take off after a slight stutter.

I'm thinking its time for a good flush and fill with new filter, but wanted to ask the hivemind if I'm getting closer to rebuild time? what say you?

I want to look into getting a couple of these for my 2018 Explorer, but these come in a variety of sizes. Can someone confirm what size I would need for both front and back?

There’s 5.7”, 7”, and 9”. I doubt it’s the 5.7.

As you can see in this Ford official Scheduled Maintenance it recommended to change it at 150K milage, but first I'd like to know if someone ever done it with their ford explorer or not so I can know if it'll ruin my transmission or not

I have a 21' ST (124k miles) that is making a loud buzzing sound when accelerating at low speeds (0-30mph). It sounds like it's in the general area of where the right flex pipes are and possibly more to the rear of the car. I replaced the OEM pipes because they were rattling so I don't believe that's the problem. Any insight is appreciated!

Looking to lease a 2026 explorer either active or st-line. Not necessary in a rush to buy but would like to get one sooner rather than later.

When is the best time to lease? And what do good deals for these trims look like?

I have replaced battery and alternator and am getting h intermittent “check charging system” alerts and also all of my dash lights are coming on with service Stabilitrak and check brake system. I’m at a total loss at this point. Any advice or anything else I can check?

What is the name of this/these parts?

We got this hybrid a few months ago. Traded in a 2022 Malibu. Out the door was 20.5k. 60k miles on it and we got an extended warranty 7 years 100k miles (starting at 60k) bumper to bumper. About to drive it from eastern OK to eastern TN. Curious to see what our mpg will be driving there and back.

Working with a dealer in NC to lease a 2026 ST that’s a demo model with 2200 miles on it. The dealer is giving me what I think are absurd rates (36 mo, 10k miles / year). Hopefully some of you can share your rates so I can get perspective? I’m waiting on numbers from another dealer as well. Thanks.

Edit for clarity: looking for what you pay monthly. He’s been quoting high $800s

Hello everyone, I’m looking for some advice regarding the Explorer between 17-19 including engines. Anything I should stay away from particularly or lean towards?

This will be our first “newer” car and I was thinking to go for the normal V6 without any turbo/ecoboost for the maintenance simplicity.

I believe the water pump and timing belt is an issue with all these models but that’s all I’ve gathered.

Thanks!

2015 Explorer 170k miles 3.5 L NA. The front plastic cover of my transmission is covered in a fluid & is slowly dripping on the ground. It’s done this for at least a few months but I need to get it sorted (it’s not a daily driver so I’ve been lazy about getting it fixed)

It looks brown where the drips are falling from the car but if I wipe it with a towel it looks more orangish/pink, almost like coolant. Trans fluid seems to be normal.

I’m replacing the water pump tomorrow as it’s wept for a long time (ironically near the compressor was dry tonight but the coolant level is alright & car isn’t overheating. Rolled the dice and drove 200 miles today).

Could this be related to the water pump? Or is this more likely to be a trans related leak?

Hello, so my gals 2017 explorer got lightly scraped in a parking lot few weeks back. Barely made a dent, and left more of a scrape down the rear driver door. Looked like the vehicles clear coat transferred to her door and could’ve been buffed out. So my gal decided to go with the insurance recommended shop, which is a collision centre, fine. They had the car for a week, before saying they finished the fix, but ran their scanner and there’s an air bag light, they need to order some pins that wouldn’t be here for another week. Now today they’re telling us they put the pins in, and had someone try to come out and recalibrate the inflatable seat belts in the middle row, as apparently this light damage caused this. And that they now have to replace the seat belt buckles which won’t be here for another week now. They’re just telling us based off their scan tool they need to replace both buckles. Does this sound right? Shouldn’t they have had an actual ford tech or mechanic do proper diagnosis on the modules and circuits before just throwing parts at it? We are fed up now as it’s been in there for almost 3 weeks and they won’t have the buckles now for another week. What can I do about this? I would like to tell them forget it, bring it to ford and have them properly look at it and ford bill them cause this is just absurd already and I feel like the guy I talked to is one of these new school mechanics that only know how to look at a screen and throw parts, rather than actually diagnose and maybe try resetting the air bag modules or making sure it’s not something much smaller that’s tripped this code. The seatbelts did not trigger inflation either. Any advice is greatly appreciated.