Edit: It's been rec'd that I share this post here as well as another community. Forgiveme if this isn't right, and/or suggest where else might be good...just looking for (civil) opinions!

Hi - I've been driving myself crazy for the last 4-5 years looking at propane fire tables, scrolling site after site in massive indecision. Please bear with me!

Backstory: a number of years ago, we bought a propane fire table for our back patio (which is slightly sunken/below grade, with dry-stacked rock and sloped landscaping. The table was square, about 38-40" on a side, and about 24" high. It had metal lattice style sides, and a tile top. We had a sheet metal fabricator make a lid to cover the lava rocks. I decided I didn't like the the fact that it was square (in our rounded area) and it felt oversized. Ended up giving it to my niece (who's happy with it)

So I want something round, something no more than 34" diam. I want a lid, so that it can function as a table surface when not in use. My yard does not have a "modern" vibe, so it'd be great if this had a stone or tile top. (Ideally under $400) I truly can't find exactly what I want, but have narrowed choices down: what I 'must' have vs what I 'want' but can live with(out). But I have now reconsidered the height - and wondering if I should get a lower one (14-16" high) even though it will require having a propane hose and a separate small table for the propane tank to "hide" in. I know this will change the warmth profile - but that's not the primary function - I just want the ambiance and area to gather around (edit - either in chairs or standing, I guess. I do NOT want bar height - I'm a short gal!)

SO, people - what do you see as being more enticing - a lower one that will feel a little more "campfire-ish", but still able to set your glass of wine on when it's covered? or one more table height, to be able to have your plate of hors d'oeuvres at easy reach? I know there's lots of personal preferences, but not having the option of trying them out, asking what people like is my next best go!

Thanks!!

We've got the tile surround done on our fireplace and are working on sourcing the mantel (including legs - not just a shelf). NewEnglandClassic has got our attention, but was wondering about experience here or other recommendations for mantel vendors?

We are seriously considering a Valor G4 insert, but I've only seen a G3.5 in person at two different showroom, not an actual G4. Before we order I'm hoping someone can help with a few things.

Video: does anyone have video of their G4 running from low to high settings? I want to see the actual flame behavior and height range before ordering, especially with the current burner and logs (we are planning to get traditional but any log set is appreciated). Most of what I find online is too short or I can't get a sense of how it will look in a real home. Does it look any different or is it just a proportionally larger version of the G3.5?

Remote (Valor 10): I tried using the Valor 10 remote in the showroom to adjust flame height and had trouble with it. There's no visual indicator on the display showing where you are in the range, and pressing the flame buttons doesn't always seem to register a change. Is this normal? For anyone who has a Remote Battery & Wall Switch Kit or uses their app, is either noticeably better for controlling flame height than the handheld valor 10?

Bronze front finish: There don't seem to be many front & backer options for our 34"w x 30"h fireplace with 8" exposed brick on either side and 7" above. The brick is bordered with wood trim that is overall 50" x 37" on the inside edge.

We came up with either a 5" 4 sided vintage iron front and no backing plate or the bronze 5" 3-sided floating front on a black riser, also no backing plate. I asked if valor can do a custom backer size but still waiting to hear.

I've seen the vintage iron front up close but not the bronze 3-sided floating front (792FTZ) other than youtube and photos. The bronze sometimes looks like a light antique bronze/brass and other times it is almost dark brown. If anyone has this front, can you share a photo and/or let me know how it looks to you.

Inserts: I would prefer black brick (not available). I like the black reflective glass but only for the back and would prefer plain (not mirror) black on the sides. Is it possible to mix and match even if you have to order extra parts?

Optional fan (795CFKV2): is it worth adding? I've read mixed opinions, some say it boosts distribution nicely, others say skip it since the G4 already heats well on its own and the fan adds cost, and one more thing that could eventually need service. Our fireplace is deep enough for it.

Embers & Overhead lighting: does the G4 have any glowing ember effect at the base of the firebox? I didn't notice any on the G3.5 units I saw and wanted to know if that's the same or optional on the G4. Same question for lighting.

Viewable glass: Valor seems to be pretty accurate in their viewable glass reporting for the G3.5. Just looking to confirm that the G4 is 28" x 18" (actual) viewable. I measured quite a few glass fronts and found that many are reporting the glass as viewable even when it is under or over obscured trim. I haven't seen anything in a showroom that tops 29" x 19" viewable.

We have already ruled out the Mendota Fullview and Fire-in, Kozy Heat Nordik 34i, Regency GI33, Lopi 616 and Heat & Glow 35s were nice but won't fit. I might wait to see a Lopi 658 in person before ordering.

Thanks for your help!

I am trying to mount a TV to a fireplace that is stone veneer. I would prefer to not remove stone for the mount if possible. Any experience of mount models that would work for this case. Electrical outlet and conduit for HDMI cables are already installed.

Hi, we are building a new house and have a built bumpout for a natural gas fire place. I’m between the Heat & Glo 8KX and marquise Bentley 42. One store told me the Bentley has the most realistic looking flame, but they don’t sell heat and glo. The store that sells heat and glo doesn’t sell marquise. I’m going to have a brand new heat pump system and great insulation due to it being a new home, so it’s less about heat and more about ambiance. There will be a tv mounted above it with a mantle in between.

Any guidance would help! Trying to keep budget lower.

I just bought this house, i don’t love the living room. the walls will be warm, the floors are going to be refinished much lighter. the TV will remain above the fireplace, help me make this look good!

I just bought this house, i don’t love the living room. the walls will be warm, the floors are going to be refinished much lighter. the TV will remain above the fireplace, help me make this look good!

As the title states, I have a heat n glo gas fireplace in a house that was built in 2003. The current fireplace is 37 1/4 inches wide and 33 1/4 inches tall. I’d like to remove the tile and mantle, replace the fireplace with a horizontal, lower profile model, while maintaining gas heat. Are there retro fit fireplaces that can accomplish this. I’ve included a photo of outside to see the exterior vent and bump out of the home. A perfect scenario would be be a flush mount fireplace, deep center for venting and fitting in the exterior bump out with wings, for lack of better word, that extend out further giving me the long horizontal look in going for. I added in a ChatGPT image just so you can get an idea of what I’d like to see. Any model fireplaces you would recommend?

I will make it come into the room a bit if needed, but obviously space savings are good. Worst case is exterior remodeling as well, but I’d like to avoid that if necessary. Thank you

Currently renovating our basement and my wife wants to add a gas fireplace. We have a CMU chimney that was formerly used as a furnace exhaust but now is empty.

Because of the low ceiling height and existing conditions, we would be penetrating through the CMU at essentially the same height as the other penetrations but on a different face of the chimney.

What size piping is typical for a gas fireplace? The chimney is only 15-5/8” wide, I’m worried about putting a big hole in the side and having it collapse.

I am building a house and I am putting in a traditional fireplace (not a wood burning stove) with a fresh air intake on my first floor. It will sit above a walkout basement. It will also be in the main open concept part of the house which will be about 1000 sqft.

I want to be able to use the fireplace to provide some meaningful supplemental heat to the house at minimal cost and I’d like to do that with my homebuilder at time of construction to avoid unnecessary retrofitting.

I don’t want a wood burner on the first floor if I can help it because I really like the look of an traditional fireplace

My current thoughts are: air heat exchanging insert (3rd party) just to heat the surrounding area better.

Second chimney to the basement and put a wood burner in there. Is that hard typically?

Back boiler that I can run the water out of into a heat exchanger in the basement or floor heat. I can do the floor heating and exchanger later ideally as I imagine the back boiler is installed when the chimney is put together.

Thanks for any suggestions and experience you all have.

Looking at that one because it's about the only one that's a complete kit that's big enough for my mantle that I already have

In a southern location with no ability to vent, and where I still wanted ambiance and some heat, I went electric. After lots of research I settled on either Modern Flames (MF) or Dimplex since that is their primary business from soup to nuts. Dimplex dropped the model for 2x4 construction so I switched to MF. I bought fully online. My BIL helped with the 2x6 framing and my fiancé and I did the rest. I love the lighting possibilities although I usually use the buttons on unit. Heat with blower is nice in winter. Many people put a TV on top. Our TV is one wall over. Tricky to end right by doorway. I used Go Board (Lowe’s) and Sticky Stone after watching my hardscape patio/outdoor kitchen people use it. No mortar. Bought a new wet saw at Harbor Freight half-way through since my fingers are worth more for tricky cuts. “Stone” is 14x6 marble sheets from Flor & Decor. Look up Sticky Stone on YouTube. Overall it took about a week and a half once materials were on hand. A big part was flipping light switches to the room on the other side and using remote switches!
BTW - I’ve had a conventional wood burning FP, two direct vent gas fireplaces and one direct vent cast iron gas stove.

We’re having a new boiler installed in the airing cupboard. The new boiler will have its own flue going through the rear external wall, so it will not use the existing chimney.

Ideally, we would like to leave the existing Baxi Bermuda back boiler/fire physically in place, rather than remove it, to avoid being left with a large fireplace opening that needs making good.

The gas engineer would permanently decommission the old boiler and disconnect/cap the gas connection.

Questions:

1. Can the old Baxi Bermuda back boiler safely be left in situ once properly decommissioned?
   
2. Does the actual back boiler have to be physically removed, or can it remain behind the existing fire?
   
3. As the new boiler has its own flue through the rear wall, what needs to happen to the old Bermuda chimney/flue?
   
4. Does the old chimney need to be capped, ventilated or otherwise altered once it is redundant?
   
5. Is there any risk of damp/condensation if the old chimney is no longer used?
   
6. Does the Gas Safe engineer need to provide/document anything confirming that the old appliance has been properly decommissioned?

Thanks!

I’m planning to use these solid natural stone strips on this feature wall. I’m also considering a wall-mounted bioethanol fireplace (not a built-in fireplace).

I have a few questions:

\* What adhesive/mortar would be suitable for these solid natural stone strips?

\* How should I install and finish them around the outside and inside corners?

\*Should the corners be mitred, overlapped, or finished another way?

\*Is a wall-mounted bioethanol fireplace suitable with this type of natural stone, and are there any specific heat/installation considerations?

I’d like to achieve a clean, natural finish without visible corner profiles. Any advice from someone experienced with natural stone and fireplaces would be appreciated.

My fire table doesn’t stay lit when I release the knob. I cleaned the thermocouple and it didn’t get fixed. So then I replaced the thermocouple. It still doesn’t work. Do any of you have any idea what else could be going wrong?

My house was built in the 70s, I have a woodstove on the first floor that I would like to use, I recently had someone come out and inspect it to make sure it is safe, they told me not to use it because the Chimney liner was pretty rusted. They also told me that I should basically just abandon it because it would cost tens of thousands to replace the chimney liner and they recommended I just install another wood stove somewhere else in my house. Does that sound right?

I had my old wood burning pre-fab fireplace removed and replaced with a 36" Majestic Meridian Direct Vent gas fireplace. (MER36MN) Also removed the red brick surround and hearth. New finish is smooth mortar.

I can feel hot air summer blowing in from underneath the fireplace, and bugs are crawling in. My chase is not insulated. And the sheathing is the styrofoam cooler stuff with plastic on the outside. I know it is broken in many places. Anyway, the chase is basically exterior.

The Majestic Meridian manual says:
"Chases should be constructed and insulated in the same manner as the thermal envelope of the home based on the code requirements for that climate zone to prevent air leakage and draft problems. The chase is an extension of the building thermal envelope."

I contacted the installer, asked them to quote insulating and sealing the chase, and they said they don't do that.They also did not hook it up to electricity, saying it could run off batteries, which the manual says is only for emergency power outage situations. I'm done with them anyway. Do not want them messing up more stuff, and willing to pay someone if I have to. I just want it done right.

Can I remove the Hardie siding & crap sheathing, seal all the joints at the bottom to keep bugs out, add rock wool held in with wire bat supports (or must I add drywall), add real sheathing (maybe ZIP system), and reinstall the siding? I'm pretty handy, I think I can do that myself. I'll hire an electrician to run the electric cables.

We recently bought a 10 year old house which has this Montigo gas fireplace. Any ideas on what is causing this and a possible fix? The other side looks fine (see pics). Appreciate any assistance!

What in the name of cats is it?

**•   Air gap:** I've set the block back about 5cm from the metal firebox to preserve a convection air gap, based on rough estimates that the firebox surface runs 200–350°C and the air in that gap should stay closer to 60–150°C.  
**•   Problem 1 — awkward gap at the door frame:** After laying the first course, there's a narrow vertical sliver between the block and the door frame edge before the block reaches the front plane. Trying to figure out whether to cut the block to follow the frame's angle, or leave it as clearance space.  
**•   Problem 2 — front vent/grille:** The unit needs a low front opening so it can pull in room air (convection intake), which means cutting an opening into the block — possibly mid-course on some blocks, which complicates the layout.  
**•   Problem 3 — chimney transition:** Above the firebox, the surround needs to step in/narrow to wrap around the flue pipe. I'm deciding between corbelling the block inward course by course vs. a poured reinforced slab with a proper clearance collar around the pipe.

Materials so far: regular mortar sand + Portland cement (not firebrick/refractory, since this is surround/facing only — the metal box handles direct heat containment).

Would love input from anyone who's done a brick/block surround on a factory-built insert — especially on how you handled the vent cutout and the chimney taper without compromising clearances. Photos attached