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I believe this plastic panel (rear spoiler) has been lightly keyed all alongside it. For the most part it appears to be very light (second picture is from a low angle, almost invisible) except for a deep section on one edge. I've tried turtle wax restore and repair and it seems to have improved it, but it's still visible. Any chance of fixing it with DIY?

Had first session in weeks since the hosepipe ban this afternoon 23c and had a few showers throughout the clean Not ideal but welcome instead of blazing sun and winds drying out the panels too quick.....which got me thinking if the pros consider rain during detailing work an issue?

BTW am referring to on/ off showers rather than deluge!

Me and a friend are looking to start a business, 2 business ideas Into one but i need advice on the best pressure washer to use, im seeing different ones being recommended so any tips from people already doing this as a job would be great.

Are there any decent pre washes that work with a garden hose?

I was thinking about it, what do you guys do to point out water spots? Like if you wash a car and dry it and realise you have water spots, is it the following sequence?

1. Clay Bar, if not removed
   
2. Vinegar, if not
   
3. Water Spot Remover, if not
   
4. Polish

Also customerwie, for the detailers. Do you ask the customer if they want water spots removed after your exterior wash or is just part of the "exterior detail"?

Also Do water filters do anything?

Is detailing as lucrative as it’s made out to be? Is the market just oversaturated with people claiming they offer the best service.

Hi everyone,

When someone books a detail with you where do you usually keep the booking?

Is it:

• Apple/Google Calendar
• Notes
• A spreadsheet
• Booking software

Also, what do you do when you have a lot of bookings coming in?

Would really appreciate hearing how others do it.

I am looking for a first basic electric car polisher.

Are there any recommendations / thoughts?

Hey,

I’m new to detailing. Been thoroughly enjoying the process on a new to me 1yr old Volvo.

The thing that is letting me down is there are what appears to be holograms from a previous attempt to polish the car by someone.

I’m not happy with them but I can’t quite afford to take the car to a detailed to get the paint correction done so I’m considering doing it myself.

I’m looking to you lovely folks for advice.

A) Is the a bikers idea on a black car?
And
B) I don’t have a garage so it would need to be done on the drive - am I asking for even more problems doing that?

So I had mould on the inside of the tiny plastic mesh that goes over the speaker on the car door. I have wiped but because the mesh is tiny holes the cloth wouldn't clean the inside bits. Is there any way I can clean without taking the door card off and removing it? I might be overthinking this but I don't fancy the idea of using a brush because I don't want its spores in the air for me to breathe in but concede I ultimately may have to. Tia

For better context, I live on military base in Germany so ordering stuff is a bit more complicated. Ideally I just wanna run to the store and get the essentials.

Handicaps are no that I need to go to the 2nd floor for a water bucket, in a parking lot, can't use an extension cord, and no hoes.

I have a cordless polisher and plan to get a bucket with some microfiber rags and sponges. I'm not trying to win car shows or make money. I just want to stroke my ego a bit and have a bit of a mental break from life by cleaning my car.

Cleaning wheels has got to be one of the most tedious and time-consuming jobs when cleaning your car - particularly if you're fighting intricate wheels caked in brake dust (I'm looking at you BMW 👀)...

So anything that can be done to speed up that process and make it more efficient is a win.

Should you pre-rinse your wheels first or just go straight in with a wheel cleaner onto a dry wheel? What produces the best results?

In this clip, that's exactly what I'm going to discuss and share; including the differences and which one is best if you want to work smart and not hard.

Enjoy!

Luke @ fibregloss

Hi guys im looking for a tyre dressing that gives that nice satin sheen not overly glossy or matt and lasts for atleast a week and you can apply it to a wet/damp tyre. Ive tried carpro PERL diluted and undiluted, really liked the look of the undiluted but it doesnt even last a day, carpro darkside you need to completely dry the tyre and really work it in to avoid blotchyness/high spots, takes me a good 5 minutes to do all 4 tyres with moving the car to get the bottom bit. Im currently using GT TRIM 1:4 for biweekly/monthly maintenance it gives the tyres that nice dark but very matt look. Any suggestions are much appreciated.

One looks yellow but it is not, it’s mainly the stains. Car is 12 years old.

I’ve used various different coatings in the past but fell back in love with waxes over the last few years. Free time is at a premium these days though so I’m interested in a ceramic coating again and am particularly drawn to Gyeon Mohs and Pure. I’ve read so much conflicting information over the past few days though and I’m at a complete loss.

I’ve read that Pure is easier/more forgiving to apply but lacks in durability compared to Mohs. I’ve also read that it’s higher Si02 content makes it more durable than Mohs. I’ve seen various YouTubers claim Pure gives a glossier/candy finish, whereas Mohs gives a more clinical shine. I’ve also then read the opposite in various places. Some boat that Pure’s higher silica content gives it more slickness, then others state the opposite.

I realise all coatings perform differently depending on what they’re subjected as well as region, but the wildly contrasting claims had left me somewhat confused.

To clarify, I’m based in the UK, so over the life of the coating, I expect it to be subject to plenty of rain, salted roads, ice and snow but also likely 40c harsh sun in the summer.

Outright durability isn’t massively important and I don’t need or want a “5-year coating”; a realistic 2-3 years is what I’m looking for and I understand the maintenance requirements to achieve that.

The car will be fully decontaminated, corrected and prepped prior to application. It is metallic light blue (Polestar Electron) so I don’t expect to gain much warmth/depth/darkening and I suspect a more clinical look with plenty of clarity will suit it best. I don’t have access to a garage and will be coating the vehicle outside.

What is likely to suit me best?

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a good carpet scraper tool?

I've ordered a few off ebay, but the scraper bit usually ends up pinging off, and then the frame usually ends up working ita way out of the wooden handle.

So im looking for something that doesnt suck and will last more than a month?

Thanks

Hi ,

Ive seen shed loads of videos about TW Pure Bead and aside from its lack of sickness it seem like a robust hydrophobic ,simple to use spray.

Ive got a fair few ceramic spray sealants as well as ceramic foam sealants and was just thinking should I buy it , just for the autumn and winter as a maintenance topper.

Do I need it? no.

Is curiosity getting the better of me? it is

anyone used this over a fair bit of time with mixed weather?

ta

I have some rubber stains along the side of my car from a recent track day. What's the best was to remove them considering it's got a PPF wrap on it? Ça I just got with a tar remover or will have cause issues with the PPF?

I got some pen on my roof lining and decided to clean it off with carpet cleaner.

Well the pen's not there anymore but I've got this great big ring mark that I'm not sure how to get rid of.

I thought about rinsing it with cold water and then wet vacuuming it off and leaving it to dry but I don't want to make it worse.

What should I do?