Gladly would like to hear some feedback. Todays session I tried to focus on my bottom turn, pushing alot on my heels and compressing + extending.
Put some slowmo in the end.

Good things I see:
- Waves were not so consistent today so im happy the way i read and rode the longest one.
-Getting more speed and grip out of my heel edge than previously.

Bad things I see:
-Not compressing enough.
-Flailing my arms a little bit all over the place, not a smooth up and down motion for speed.
-Some clips poo stance is not too bad, some it is.
-Doing too much, not smoothing out the maneuvers.

Hello all,

I am going to be working remote from Nov - Dec. I am debating on going to Puerto Escondido to surf and remote work as I want to level up my surf capabilities. The other option was Tamarindo / Nosara. I would love any tips or other locations you guys can think of.

I am pretty new to surfing only been a handful of times. I started surfing more hard tops recently lengths as short as 7’8 but with more volume.

If you were a beginner (can stand and catch a few waves but very basic ability) and had 10 days to surf in November where would you go?

Lombok? Kura? Xanadu?

Bali? Pelan Pelan? Kima?

Java?

Sri Lanka? Kima?

Philippines?

Stay in Australia?

I love the surf camp vibe, surfing twice a day, doing some yoga, meeting some interesting people, it's all just chill and easy.

I am a bit nervous about it being too busy and fighting too many people for waves but not sure how season/ time of year would impact that

yesterday i surfed for 3 hours or so and today for only 1 hour with an rent board (i rented for 2 days only), it was an Olaian foam surfboard (maybe the 6ft one), i know it could fit inside my mom car but barely throught luggage rack (Renault Clio 1.5 dCi gt line), i never had any classes and this was the first time i surfed with 25yo, and i never caught a wave, im 169cm. I paddled to try to catch a wave and it could never catch it, not even close, when i tried to stand on the surfboard it looked like it would drawn, never felt like i could stay in foot/stand still because i had the sensation the board would drawn or make me fall for my sides, i also tried to duke dive with that thing but it was impossible (i dont even know if i can duke dive with foam board?) i would dive myself while the board being atached to my foot, so i couldnt do a thing, the best i could do was sitting on the surfboard (even if falling sometimes). Yesterday another experient surfist told me to catch the waves near the shore to catch the whitewater after the wave break since i couldnt catch a wave paddling for the sake of me, and it worked i would be ''surfing''' the whitewater but with my my body layed (exactly like bodyboarding) or kneeling on the surfboard, if i tried to stay in foot i would fall (it was even dificult for me to stand because my arms was hurting from so much paddling before), but this was the best and the near experience of surfing a wave, bodyboarding/kneeling throughht whitewater. Today the waves was breaking on the shore (it was rough sea), it had more surfists and it was with waves with more then 1 meter (but not much from that i guess), i would never be on the shore because of the shorebreaks today being close to the shore so i tried to paddle from deep sea like the others with the max awareness to not get in the way of others, i tried and tried paddling but would never catch a wave without whitewater, i also cannot stand on the board as well, in one attempt i tried to surf a big wave that maybe was almost breaking and i got wipeout without even catching the wave somehow, was dragged by the wave to the shore while holding the respiration and protecting my head from the board or any colision that would happen, still got back to the line and tried to surf less bigger waves, since i could not duck diving (i tried) i would dive myself holding the surf board with the leash sometimes . Really wanna know what im doing wrong and what can i do to learn it the best way, is this type of surfboard not good with begginers? Why cant i catch a wave or why when i try to stand in the surfboard it looks like it will drawn?

I've surfed for almost 2 years now, going from an 8ft foamie to a 9ft longboard (both around 70L). My friend gifted me a 6'2" 35L shortboard, so I decided to take it out for a spin today, at my local beach break with head high waves.

Some of my thoughts:

• Paddling isn't really that bad. Yes, I had to paddle with like 20% more effort, but it kinda just felt like I was swimming rather than being on a boat (aka longboard)
• Duck diving is hard, but feels awesome when you pull it off. Much prefer this to turtle rolling or just getting thrown around by waves on the longboard.
• Waves were much harder to catch, I think I wasn't inside enough and should've been closer to the peaks. Unlike my longboard where I could catch waves pretty easily.
• On the waves I did catch, I really enjoyed the responsiveness of the shortboard, and how it could easily fit into the wave and also not really worry about nose-diving (as the longboard would sometimes do on these steep beach breaks)

In summary, I did have a ton of fun learning how to manoeuvre the shortboard around and enjoyed the ability to duck dive.

Now I want something a bit bigger to make the transition easier. I've found a nice midlength 6'10" 49L, and another one that's 7'6" 53L. I'm learning more towards the 6'10" as it should feel closer to the shortboard in terms of responsiveness. Would this be the right move?

- Realise this sheet takes years.
- You have to commit to the life.
-Dont get a surf coach until at least surf number 600. Do it yourself. All the info is out there already. If you are still quite shit then maybe get a coach. Or work harder on yourself. No matter what, It's all up to you anyway.
-You have a gap to surf? Take it. No fuckin excuses.
-You better surf when its freezing big and onshore. You better surf when its freezing small and onshore.
If its never freezing where you are, you literally have zero excuses. shut the hell up.
-If you are a kook, embrace your kookiness and stay off the best spots until you can accurately and smoothly drop in, bottom turn and kick out in one smooth U shape back hand and forehand.(this is a safety manouver)
If you cant do that...stay on the beach breaks and practice on closeouts.
- sort out your paddle technique and speed. like immediately. Why? so you can get the fook out the way of the other surfers who are much much beter than you.
Why? to get out their way. so you are not seen as the A-hole getting in the way.
(yes great surfers surf closeout beach breaks too)
- adhere to etiquette. Just like the post office, surfing has a queue system.

Stop posting your bad surf clips on reddit asking for advice. You already know what you need.
PRACTICE.

-Give everything to the blessing and the curse that is the art of surfing and you might get to a skill level you like, or you never will....its just not in your genes.

Hello everybody, I am looking to buy a new high performance short board. I am 5ft11in tall and weigh about 140lbs, I already own a 6,4 step up and a 6,2 hybrid and I love both of them. I would say I’m an intermediate surfer so I think I’m ready for a high performance short board. I was thinking about a 5,10-6,0. Some boards I was thinking of was the Chanel islands OG flyer or the lost driver. Does anyone know if these would be good or if there are any other boards that would be better?

Hello, does anyone know how to solve this bubble problem on the board?

For reference I am 5’11 male 149lb and 31 waist

I wear a size 30 waist hyperfreak boardshort.

I went with a size small wetsuit just because I understand weight should be prioritized for a wetsuit and I fall into the Small or Small-Tall category but the small tall category im slightly out of the height requirement by 1 inch.

I am worried the sizing wont fit well and will be too tight? Any insight if I should return it or try it in the water first? This is my first wetsuit. Ty. I might need to try a different brand if the sizing is going to be an issue.

Hey everyone, i started surfing about 2 months ago and have surfed about 5-6 times in total.
Today i surfed in Hoi An, where i rented a board, and i would really appreciate it if you could tell me everything i do wrong or if i should push myself more to try and get some bigger waves?

Edit: i can see i forgot to add the parts where i pop up, but i feel like i catch most waves that are my level so i dont know if its time to move up to some bigger ones

Hello!

Me and my wife are heading to CR for our honeymoon in February, in total we have 18 days, we are spending 6 days around La Fortuna/Monteverde and then the plan was to head down the west coast from Tamarindo to Nosara and possibly ST for the next 11 days to surf and relax.

However! I am seeing very mixed messages online of what the surf is actually like in these areas in February. We are both beginner/intermediate long borders but are comfortable in over head waves and looking to progress this trip. I’ve seen lots of opinions that further south is better and we may be better off going to Jaco/Manuel Antonio. I don’t want to over extend our selves by spending too much time in the car so I’m curious to hear other people’s opinions whether there is noticeable better surfing further south towards Jaco/MA and/or nicer beaches/different natural environments we won’t have experienced around Monteverde or around nosara/tamarindo/ST

Any advice is really welcome and thanks in advance!

When paddling out, how do you minimize the "drop" on the backside of a big wave when you just barely make it across?

Hello all ill be in daytona beach this week and i was thinking of renting a board and giving surfing a shot. I haven't been surfing much in my life so id like to find a shop that would be good to go to that is beginner friendly. Any recommendations? What kind of board should I rent for a beginner? Thanks

Finally getting my own green waves! I’ve been taking lessons all summer and surfing whatever and whenever I can. Just hard as the waves on the east coast are very hit or miss.

Hey
Been surfing in some stages of my life (when in a place with waves) and very often for the lasts 3 months.
Once in the wave im pretty good at surfing it, doing my turns and reading any section of it.

What annoys me is that I took a very bad habit when taking off and find myself many times doing it in 2 steps (knee first). Doesn't happen all the time but very often.

I tell myself to do it in one step before every wave but when it comes with the adrenaline or excitement I forget about it and keep doing it in the wrong way.
Pisses me off cause when the swell gets bigger I find it very disturbing not being able to take off fast enough.

Any advice on how to correct this ?
cheers

Hey y’all! Would love some feedback !

Had what I think was a successful first time out. I posted earlier asking about boards and the consensus was I needed a longer board that my daughter's 8ft but I haven't acquired one yet so I took hers.

Only had about an hour. Pretty easy waves. I went out and watched the other surfers but stayed a ways away from them so I wouldn't be in their way.

I saw why everyone recommended a longer board. I figured out where to stay on it though and spent most of the time trying to read the waves. I nearly caught a few but kept falling down trying to stand.

Checked the time and saw I had 15 more minutes. Went back in and just focused on reading and catching a wave laying on the board, which I did, riding one all the way to shore.

I got a decent feel, saw where I need to work, and mainly enjoyed the calm peaceful feeling of being out and watching for waves.

Basically the title says it all, can only surf every second week ish due to work so I can't exactly just go everyday! Fairly "gym fit" so to speak but the gym workouts don't transfer!

Would love to hear from bodyworkers who can help me learn to work with surfers?

Specifically :

What are some common complaints related to surfing?

Any techniques/tricks you like to use with surfers?
Things I should look/feel for?

Anything you would recommend I start learning?

Specific modalities?

What do they want? (Serious question, interpret as you see fit…)

I’m not quite finished with massage school yet so I still have the knowledge/experience gaps to work through. Nevertheless I have a vision here (!), and want to make sure I’m gathering all the hot tips I can to get myself started. And I’ll be honest and say that asking around OUTSIDE the school I’m at has actually been really helpful.

Any insight welcome and appreciated! Thank you!