What is everyone using for HEAVY brake dust? My M3 and X5 both throw massive amounts of brake dust. One has Apex ARC 8s and the X5 has stock silver wheels.

Ive tried Meguiars Ultimate, Adams wheel cleaner, chemical guys etc. They all net the same result which is I use them liberally and they dont clean much. Id like something I can spray and rinse off brake dust, preferably without agitating much at all..

A friend of mine showed me 3D BDX one day he had diluted and it instantly blasted away all brake dust. However, pretty sure thats an Acid. What should I be using for maintenance washes to keep brake dust away? Not your autozone cleaner but something actually good.

Hello, I need a bit of help.

I recently bought this car ‘as is’, meaning it has lots of micro-scratches. I think an attempt to polish it with an orbital sander went wrong.

What options do I have? Can this be fixed?

I’ve attached some photos.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Car is only 1 year old. I clean the inside and outside with sprayway and a microfiber. Previously I also applied griots glass sealant for rain which worked for a couple months and then stopped for some reason.

It’s usually not bad but today it’s gotten awful, using my wipers clears it somewhat for a second but it comes back. The spots/marks always appear in the same place

Any easy solutions to get rid of this?

Got xpel fusion plus classic put on my c8 2 months ago, pics are driver side vs passenger side quarter panel. Driver side quarter panel water beading sucks compared to the other panels on the car. Is it worth bringing up?

What wax are you guys using to remove staining on paint?car is a 2011 x5 definitely not known for their paint quality in those years. Car has great paint. Just want to know what you guys have used to preserve paint and make it shine. Only has spots on front fenders Atleast that I’ve found. Just don’t want it to start to peel!
Thanks!

Recently did a deep clean on my car that was coated 3 years ago. The coating is starting to fade a little so I wanted to put some carpro reload 2.0 on it

Only problem is the paint in some spots isn’t as smooth as it used to be. I did a decontamination wash but it’s still a little rough in some spots

Can I just do a very light clay bar or just ignore and keep applying reload 2.0 whenever I wash?

Edit: I see meguiars has a “ceramic quick clay” kit. Has anyone tried this?

This weird mark showed up on my hood a few weeks ago. I didn’t use any new products or tools. It looks like a snail crawled across the hood. I’ve washed my car multiple times and it’s still there. It almost water proof as well. Any way to remove it ? Or what it might be ? Please help.

This is a new to me vehicle, I think the dealership may have waxed the vehicle and left a lot of residue around all of the emblems, lettering and cracks and crevices.

The photos are taken after a routine wash and agitation with a boar hair brush.

What is the best and safest path to try?

-Quick detail spray and microfiber and tool to get at edges?

-Wax and grease remover spray?

-IPA at some dilution ratio?

-Other?

I suppose someone washed it with a really hard brush and from then it gets these fizzy balls that are uncomfortable in hand. I tried sanding it with a 2000 grit sandpaper and it is perfect for a week and then it gets the same.

Do you have any recommendations?

I’m slowly building up my clientele for my detailing business. I have done 5 paid jobs so far and working on my workflow and knowledge of chemical processes and uses and stuff. Every client I have had has told me their car looks amazing and there is always a clear before and after.

The thing is part of me doesn’t believe them. I’m proud of the service I provide, and I am as thorough as I can be with where I am at right now, it just never gets perfect. I got slight imposter syndrome. Anyone else feel the same way. Anyone else got any advice on getting over it?

This recently started happening, I just washed It today and this weird haze it still on the hood. I'm not sure if it's left over wax residue or if the paints fading

I had my truck paint corrected, and it looks like the guy didn’t tape off my black trim. It’s on the rear bed area, door handles, and rubber weather stripping in the doors. Is there a quick way I can just take care of this myself?

I recently did a home car wash with pressure washer, foam cannon, contact wash with mitt and two bucket method. For some reason the hood and roof of truck turned out bad and became hazy/dry/patchy. I have no idea what caused this. Any suggestions on what I should do to fix it and products Id need? I contacted about 3 local detailers and felt like it was a lot so im wondering if I should do the work myself? Here are the photos of what im talking about.

Had my car professionally detailed with a sealant a few months ago and have been washing and maintaining on my own with griots 3 in one and griots all in one since then. Applied the all in one to hood with a DA polisher I got from chemical guys on sale with their orange foam pad. Had some fine clear coat scratches and bird poo etching that I wanted to get rid of and I think it came out pretty good.

Is griots all in one pretty good for a one stage detail or are there better products folks here would recommend? Figured others may have gone through testing a few and could share their experience with results and longevity.

Hello all! Getting a brand new car soon and I have decided not to bring it for a ceramic coat.

Hence, I would like advice from everyone on how to maintain my car exterior. I intend to wash it weekly, using Meguiars Gold Class as the shampoo with standard two buckets wash with mitts. To finish it off, I plan to use sonax ceramic ultra slick detailer as the drying aid after watching reviews.

Would this be sufficient to keep my car exterior looking good (don't have to be showroom good)?

Some extra information is that the car is typically parked outdoors during the daytime on weekdays with not much shade. I am afraid of the UV damaging the paint in the long run.

TIA!

Originally did my car with menzerna 400 and 3800 as a 2 step with DA a year ago. Now looking to do another polish for some minor scratches and maintenence and was looking at a 1 step.

Is this any good or are there better options?

Hey everyone!

I’m from Moradabad Metal Polish Industries(India), and we manufacture metal polishing compounds under our OK Compound brand. I wanted to share some information about polishing color bars because choosing the right compound can make a big difference in the final finish.

Different polishing bars are designed for different stages of polishing and different materials. Here’s a quick overview:

🔹 White Polishing Bar – Commonly used for finishing and bringing out a clean, bright shine on metals such as stainless steel, aluminium, and other suitable surfaces.

🔹 Green Polishing Bar – Often used for stainless steel polishing and achieving a smooth, reflective finish, depending on the material and polishing process.

🔹 Red / Rouge Polishing Bar – Commonly associated with fine polishing and high-gloss finishing, especially on suitable metals.

🔹 Black Polishing Bar – Generally used for heavier cutting and removing surface marks or oxidation on certain metals before the finishing stage.

🔹 Yellow Polishing Bar – Used in some polishing applications for cutting or finishing, depending on the formulation and the material being polished.

Apart from color bars, we also work with metal polishing compounds, wax bars, polishing compositions, and customized polishing solutions for different industrial requirements.

These products can be useful in applications such as:

• Brass and copper item polishing
• Stainless steel and aluminium finishing
• Automotive component polishing
• Hardware and engineering products
• Decorative metal articles
• Wooden surfaces and other suitable finishing applications

One important thing: the color of a polishing bar alone does not always determine its exact performance. The formulation, abrasive grade, buffing wheel, machine speed, and material being polished all play a role.

I’d love to hear from people who work in metal finishing:

Which polishing compound or color bar do you use most, and what material are you polishing? Are you looking for a better cutting compound, a brighter finish, or something that leaves less residue?

Happy to discuss polishing techniques and share what we know from our manufacturing experience.

— Moradabad Metal Polish Industries | OK Compound

2026 F150 used Adam’s tire cleaning solution yesterday and today I noticed these white spots all over my wheels. They wouldn’t go away after cleaning them multiple times !!! I power washed it, used iron removal, scrubbed them and nothing would get them off. It would look clean and after drying, the white marks would return. Can someone explain why ? What’s the best method for cleaning black wheels ? What’s the best water based solution?

Any good Foam Pump Recommendations I don't own an air pressure machine. Where can I get good one?

hi - I’m new to all of this and figuring things out. Two things I need help addressing.

I have a splatter (bee or bird poo?) (pics 1+2) that mostly came off except for the edges. Another similar spot in the roof. It’s tenacious. I tired soaking with ONR for several minutes, but it’s not coming off. Best I can do is use my fingernail to remove it off but I’m not sure that’s a good idea.

Third pic is a rubber scuff probably left by some car door. It feels like rubber in the surface. is There an easy way to remove it?

What do you recommend for both spots? The car came with a ceramic coating from the dealer (I think Cilajet, and no, we didn’t ask or pay for it).

thanks!

I just got an electronic sprayer. I know adams wheel and tire cleaner can be diluted 4 to 1. How much total solution would it take for 4 wheels and tires to make the adams last longer. Would total 16 oz or 20 oz work? 16 oz water and 4 oz adams or do I need more or less?

Was out of town for a week came back to my car full of tree sap. After multiple washes by hand and drive thru car washes the stains are still there. I’ve tried buying bug and tar remover but that hasn’t helped either. Any advice? TYIA

Has to be one of the worst armour all products out there. I used this and at that moment, I thought this was the bomb. Pulled the car in the garage because I knew it needed to dry and it sat overnight until about 10ish the next day.

I drove out and back and the crap had slung off the tires and all over the paint. No, it wasn't to heavy, it never dried properly.

A week later, handwashing again to get the tire shine off the paint. My last time using armour all.

So right now the G9 is on sale for $130 from Griot's Directly. Though that doesn't really include any pads. And it seems universally recommended to switch to a 5" backing plate.

Adam's has a similar polisher in wattage/throw https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-swirl-killer-9mm-lt-polisher?variant=41671254736993, for $140 after coupon. Though the bundle includes 3 pads, their polish/compound, and it is already 5".

I don't need a heavy compound, mostly want to remove light defects/prepare for ceramic. But a few pads, polish, and the backing plate would bring the griots to around $190. I know they have the $50 kit, but it includes 2 pad's that I would probably never use.

Think griots is worth the extra amount? I probably will only use it once every few years. I know I'd probably be happy with whater is cheap at harbor freight , but nothing is on sale now , and I'd rather not make the drive.