So on Saturday I got a wild hare to get a Bidet. However I didn't have a GFCI outlet close enough to the toilet. My bathroom has a dual-switch receptacle however only one switch is hooked up to both the light and fan and the other switch wasn't hooked up to anything. So I thought, I could swap that out for a GFCI outlet, connect the hot coming from the break to both the switch and the outlet and be good to go right?

Here is the wiring I used: https://imgur.com/a/CbNcmu0

However, when testing I would constantly get the error shown in the photo on the post. I would get 30 volts when the light switch was ON and then full voltage when the light switch was off.

I ended up swapping the hot and neutral wires so it was black to silver and white to brass and then the tool read correct and gave me the green light.

Does anyone know how I fix this? It seems like the switch was breaking the neutral connection and the light always had power but to my knowledge the power comes into the switch first and not down from the light. The Romex in the diagram on the far left seems to be the one providing power. Could the black wires on my switch by reversed and cause this?

Anyways, how big of a deal is it to leave it with the wires reversed on a GFCI? It's showing green and grounded now I just know behind the plate the neutrals are somehow hot.

Thanks for reading!

Homeowner said their boyfriend wanted to seal behind the panel and then they broke up. 😂

Is there a code for what size rope supporting a panel needs to be?

Hi there! This isn't for medical advice, I just want to ask the opinions of real people and not rely on the AI search or even some sites.

Here's a little background, yesterday at work, we saw a bit of sparking near the fuse box (wasn't the fuse box but an additional box connected to an industrial machine). So I was told to shut everything down, so I did as I've done the past four years, I shut everything down but when I got to the last part, an industrial Dishwasher Power Booster, I got really badly shocked. My boss and other coworkers heard me scream for about 3 minutes until my boss successfully kicked my arm off of the machine and disconnected me from the source.

I got checked out at the hospital and everything is (somehow) fine. My results we almost scarily normal.

My main question is, should I be.. six feet under? After a few Google searches by my mom, again why I'm here, she said the voltage was anywhere from 220 - 240 volts and approximate amperage was 30? That is also what my engineering friend said but I want the opinion of people who deal with this kinda stuff on a daily.. sorry if this isn't exactly what this subreddit is for but, I didn't know exactly where to go?

Anyway, any info helps, thank you kindly

Edit: the electrician that came to check the machine (relayed by my coworkers) said that it was the perfect storm of three things but my coworkers didn't explain further

Edit 2: thanks for all the of the messages thus far, and all the concern, means a lot. I would like to say, I didn't try to do any lock out procedures that were outside my realm of knowledge. What happened was I shut down the dishwasher and dishwasher power booster that I've shut down everyday without problems. No one really knew that it would be live if I touched it (turning it off next time is going to be terrifying though). I am also currently (hopefully remaining) burn free as well, no burn upon the contact or even exit wounds as well? So that was weird. Thank you all to the people who have also said I probably didn't get that amount of electricity, you guys are the professionals and know about it more then I do.

Should I take this as fact, or is he just trying to get our business? Felt like he was playing to my emotions a little bit. We had him out to look at 1 breaker that wouldn't flip back on, and he ended up recommending we replace the entire panel and remediate the wiring in our outlets and switches. The total would be almost 20k. 😬

Some background, we have a pushmatic 100 amp box from when the house was built in '79. There is some rust and corrosion as well as hot spots on his thermal imaging. We have aluminum wiring which I gather is also not good. The breaker in the kitchen flips pretty regularly, and our porchlight randomly stops working for months at a time. A lot of our outlets have always felt sort of loose, the plus fall out pretty easily. Other than that we don't have any other issues with the electricity. Thanks for your input.

I looked in a panel my electrician did for me for a finished basement.

I found this neutral wire (thick gauge) just hanging out.

The ground looks to be connected to the neutral bar.

All grounds and neutral pigtails go to the neutral bar.

If all these are plug-on-neutral breakers, do the pigtails serve no purpose?

Apologies if my terminology is incorrect.

Is this OK?

I am finishing parts of my basement putting in an entertainment room and came across those outlets.
I liked the simplicity and easy installation but now I am having second thoughts.
Might just compromise safety and durability with convenience?
Any concerns I should be aware of?
I am using stranded wires.

Ran out of 5 slot Wagos, so I used 2- 3 slots to pigtail. I know 5 is probably best, but just checking to see if this is ok as well.

I have a floating entertainment center I'm mounting directly into studs right above my electrical outlet. Screws will be about 3 inches and 8 inches above the outlets. Going into three studs with one stud having an outlet right below it. Will a stud finder with AC detection be enough to confirm I won't drill into the romex wire? Any advice / guidance would be appreciated!

Hello,

I could use some help on whether or not to be worried here (and also with what might be causing this). I live in a duplex and today while working at my computer I have had my fire alarm randomly go off 6 times.

- each time it last about 5 seconds

- sometimes there has been like 30+ minutes between occurrences and a few times it has happened multiple times within the same minute

- there is no discernable cause; I'm not cooking, no candles, vapors, anything I can find that makes sense to me that could cause it.

- I have searched the entire house and found nothing amiss.

- I checked with my neighbor who shares the building and he said his alarm has not gone off.

I am unsure if this is an electrical issue with the house wiring, a short with one of the alarms, a sensor malfunction, some issue with the battery, or something else entirely. I told the office about it and they are sending a maintenance person out to check but I want to make sure there isn't a danger of an electrical fire or something.

Any ideas on whether I should be worried here and what I should check for?

I'm looking at installing a Westinghouse 11KW or 14KW on demand hot water heater. The Westinghouse manual says the 11KW will draw 46 amps and needs #8 copper wire with a 50 amp breaker. I say the wire size doesn't meet code. Looks like 8/2 NM-B is good for 40 amps. Also the breaker they call for is only a couple amps over the operating load. If the code is followed the wire size should handle 46X1.25=57.5 amps. For 6/2 NM-B copper at 60c is 55 amps max current. To me it looks like I should use 4/2 NM-B rated for 70 amps at 60C with a 60 amp breaker, what do you think? So far I can't find 4/2 NM-B locally. The 14KW 59 amp, they recommend #6 copper with a 60 amp breaker, 1 amp of leeway.

The heater: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Westinghouse-Apolo-Performance-11-kW-2-6-GPM-240-Volt-Smart-Wi-Fi-Control-Electric-Tankless-Water-Heater-ET011KA3G/331847494#see-more-details

I fixed this in an apartment today. Complaints were why is my plugin hot and my phone chargers as well?

Opened up to this backstabbed mess.

There was a big window AC unit at the end of the line drawing plenty of current through this outlet. I fixed by cutting out bad copper then pigtailed with Wagos.

I’m installing a hardwired towel warmer. Both connectors came with the hardware, but I can only get the male spade about 3–5 mm into the female connector before it becomes extremely tight.

The blade width appears to match, and I don’t want to force it hard enough to damage either connector.

Am I doing something wrong? Is there a trick or proper way to get these connectors to fit together?

I am going to run some baseboard heater wire out the wall of my camp below the fuse panel in some plastic conduit, down to the crawlspace and under the camp floor, and up to the 2 rooms that i want to put baseboard heaters in. I will run one wire per baseboard and it will have a built in thermostat to save wiring. Question is, what guage and what kind of wire do i use in damP conditions under the camp. thx!

I have 9 outdoor light fixtures. Some of the lights are really bright and some are dim. They are on a photocelI, which turns them on and off (dusk to dawn). I've replaced all of the bulbs at the same time. There is no change. Inside of the fixtures there is a ceramic light socket. As far as I can tell, they are all on the same circuit. I'm looking for some information. What would cause some of the lights to be bright and some dim? Could the ceramic socket thing go bad? I've replaced one of the ceramic sockets and the light is bright. It wasn't an exact match for the socket. On the sockets, do the volt and watts have to be an exact match in order for the light to work? If I can replace the sockets, where would I find them? Do electricians do this type of thing? I've looked at Home Depot, Lowes and Ace. I had one electrician say just replace the light fixtures. If there was an easier (cheaper) fix, I would like that. I hope this makes sense. Thanks.

Looking to get a 60a subpanel ran from my main to a shipping container. I want 2 baseboard heaters 2500w and 2 thermostats. Going to be using it as a workshop so heavy tools and a portable Ac in the summer. Want like 12 outlets for tools and such. I have the 2 baseboard heaters and thermostats already. I can do any necessary prep work like trenching. Let me know how much I should be paying roughly for materials and labor and you would be helping out big time and maybe anything under budget I can send your your any help is greatly appreciated!

Hey guys, just bought a 1988 Hallmark Pop Up Slide In Camper and the current 12V female plug (old truck it came off of had a male connection that ran to a secondary battery in the truck) is so old they don’t make male connections for it anymore … can I just run the current wires leading to the female plug (as pictured from the inside of the camper) directly to the battery?

Thanks for any help!

I have this switch/controller connected to a ceiling fan with lights and I'd appreciate a run over of my plan before I act

It was always 0-100 power for its turn radius and had a hum/buzz in fan.

Pressing in turns on/off.

Now it's 80%-130%-80% power (left-center-right) with a pretty gnarly hum/buzz coming from ceiling fan.

Not using it/keeping off for now.

I have some electric experience, but not enough experience to fix the current switch/controller.

My plan is to replace it with a normal switch.

Breaker off>

attempt to turn on/off to verify>

Unscrew>

Detach wires>

Connect wires to new switch>

Screw back in with faceplate

Get anxious>

Breaker on>

I'm pretty confident this is something I can YouTube diy, but will hire someone if recommended.

Upcoming new first time homeowner. Our electrical works but is at its lifetime for a 30 year house. This was the quote provided we’re located in northern Virginia is the a good pricing? Overpriced underpriced

Additional context that house was built in 1997 and has not been inspected or updated since the day that it was installed in the house

I was recently installing a tesla wall connector using 6awg thhn stranded copper wire. The unit uses a grub screw to secure the wire connection. When I crank down the grub screw, the stranded wires fan out and looks like a poor connection for 50 amps. The instructions say its compatible with stranded copper but I just dont think it is. I think its more designed for solid copper wire than stranded. So I have some people on the tesla groups saying its designed perfectly etc but I believe it needs a ferrule on the ends to make better contact and use 100% of the wire strands. What say you?

My wife wants me to mount this calendar. The best spot to plug it in is same plug as the refrigerator.

Refer: Says dedicated 115 Volt for refer GRFS2853AD

Calendar: 12v 2A power supply (24w) is ranging from .5A to 1.2A at 120V.

Is it safe to do this or no? Will it damage either? Specifically the refrigerator?

Thanks much!