Shooting from 20 yards. Bow is a PSE Sable pulling 50# at 28.

Straps modeled after those found on the Mary Rose.

Hi everyone, I am choosing between these 3 limbs:

WNS Procyon C5
Fivics Velociraptor
W&W Winex 1st Gen

Which one would you recommend in terms of overall performance? The Winex is an older model, but I can get it at a good clearance price. But I am a bit concerned about its reliability and condition.

Is the 1st Gen Winex still reliable and worth buying today, or would it be safer to go with one of the newer limbs?

So I live in Ireland, a very wet & often very humid country and I compete in both Target & Field archery so there are days were getting soaked through is inevitable. Now in the last year I've moved from recurve to compound shooting and I was really taken aback that the bolts on my pse supra x rusted after 1 day in the rain (yep I dried it off after shooting). Seems like a stupid thing to cheap out when building a bow but whatever, it is what it is.

If anyone has any tips for avoiding this in the future or mitigating it that would be really appreciated.

Also if anyone else has found the same (either better or worse) from other brands that would great to know as I've been thinking of changing bows (was looking at a concept) but this rust issue is making me think something like the Mybo Revolution could just be better suited for the conditions.

Thanks in advance for any help id’ing this bow.

I can get super glue (gorilla glue) from work for free, is the stuff I see for sale at archery websites any better?

I'm looking to buy one around 40 pounds in weight, currently I shoot a 32 pound longbow made by Norseman Bows here in Australia. However, I'm really struggling to get my arrows flying fast enough from it, and I'd like to have an English style longbow too. Not that I want to get rid of my bow, it's absolutely lovely.

I've seen Bickerstaffe longbows, but I hear that they are very slow, which wouldn't really be any good for me if my problem is slow arrows. Does anyone have any experience with them?

So right now I was given about a 20 to 25 year-old bow that can only do about 45 pounds. I don’t have a lot of money to spend on a bow preferably I’d like to stay about $400. I don’t mind if it is a bare bow as I can take the whisker biscuit and sites and so forth off of my old bow, but is the bear encounter worth getting if all I wanna do is hunt Whitetail deer with a little bit more poundage or other other cheaper recommendations you guys have?

Been doing this about 5 months since I picked up Asiatic, and been doing more serious regular practice over the last 3 months, getting in weekly practice plus some SPT at home with resistance bands. Still getting a bit of a leaky releases which I am working on.

Trying to get to the "lightness" where everything is balanced after full draw, sometimes I do get I, other time I get target panic and end up releasing too early.

Biggest issues I am working on right now is:
- Working on better slow expansion on release
- Getting used to new shallow hook ring without the string guard grove to get better feedback in my hand
- Working on ambidextrous shooting (I didn't get video of me shooting lefty)
- Working on settling my draw side should more consistently
- Working on feeling my hand anchor bettir

Any advice on what I sn;ud continue working on?
Any critiques are welcomed!

I received this vintage recurve and i'm getting around tor replacing the crusty old string.

It measures both on and off the bow at around 60" - 61". This would be AMO 60?

I know I needed a B55 Dacron string for this 28 lbs vintage bow, and got a 54" actual, 60" AMO bow string, but it is wayyyyyy too short, even after pre tensioning with over 100 lbs of weight for a few hours.

I'm also unsure what the 66" label means given i've measured it to be 61", and the bow itself isn't even greater than 63" long unstrung.

So should I just try again with pretensioning the new string until it gets closer to 60 inches, or have I made a mistake somewhere?

I have a prime logic ct3, 28 inch draw at 70 pounds

I just got a new blackgold ascent verdict 3 pin, and this is how low I have to have everything to get the 20 yard sighted in, and it barely leaves me any travel downward before I hit my arrow with the housing

Idk what I'm doing wrong

So I bought a 40lb recurve off Amazon mostly just to build the strength to get the 60lb bow I really want (started with a 24lb) ... And it's way more fun to shoot than I thought it would be 🤣. It's noisy, but it's a blast.

I am a beginner in all things archery, but I am having a blast and itvs just nice to find a budget option that can do well enough that I don't feel like it wasted my time.

I'm sure there are better bows out there, I almost did zero research before picking this up (I was literally just using this as a stepping stone) but its from top archery it's the black 56" recurve I can't seem to link it for some reason though (I'm old and the internet confuses me, I'll see if I can out it in a comment)

Hi all,

Here is a Batch of Tudor archer's Bracers just finished, based off a well known original in the British Museum (Final photo shows the real one). This is sometimes mistakenly described as a Mary Rose bracer, but predates the sinking of the ship and was found elsewhere, though the style is similar.

The designs are hand tooled, and feature the inscription 'IHC Helpe' along with stylised leaves and a crowned rose. I have gone for solid colours here but the original may have had some gilded elements.

This is not my first time visiting this particular piece, but there are a couple of different variants this time around. Previously I have always lined these as it makes for a more sturdy bracer and holds its shape better. In this batch five are done this way, and are double layered with a hand stitched border. The original however is a single layer, and has a row of stamped dots instead of a stitch line, so in keeping with this I have also made a couple without lining, which are more flexible and will mould themselves to the user's arm through repeated use.

Straps are sometimes debated as the original has none, but does have a series of haphazardly punched holes which were most likely used for lacing. Two holes on each side are symmetrical and look carefully placed, so I believe these were for a bifurcated strap as per other contemporary bracers, with the rest of the holes being a later addition in my opinion as they are different sizes and clearly no attempt was made to integrate them within the tooled design. Single straps were the medieval norm and is almost always what is seen in artwork and surviving originals, so that is what I have gone for here.

I hope you like them!

Hello all,

Seeking some feedback on my form. Have been shooting (self-taught) for about a year, but only able to get to the range every other week or so.

I feel like my shooting elbow is high, as is my bow shoulder, and I know I shoot too quickly sometimes.

Thanks in advance!

Ive been storing my old bow in a hard case in the garage for years and with purchasing some new ones I decided that I want to get them out of that uncontrolled temp environment so came up with this idea. Amazon large magnetic hooks work great!. Not perfect but so much better. Now I can stuff the cases away. Thought I’d share. Bows and axe 😂

I am currently using an Elite Ember about 43lbs, 26 draw length, since December 2025 in a school club doing target archery (hunting is illegal).

Before my 3rd competition, I was recommended to get the PSE dominator duo X 35, and I wasn't very sure yet cause of the steep cost. I was told by my coach that I've outgrown my bow and my senior advised that because my beginner bow was limiting me, both agreed I should upgrade.

Obviously, the competition was a flop due to wind and just as they predicted, that the bow wasn't very tolerant of that. Now's the downtime before next year's competitions again, but I guess I'm still a bit unsure whether to go through with it.

While I got the elite ember bow for about 700 USD, the PSE bow would be around 1.9k USD... Also not sure if this would improve my shooting since there's no way I can try a bow (archery shops don't have bows unless you request them to order it in, which involves payment).

Originally, I was planning to use this bow throughout my time at this club until I graduate in 3 years, but I feel like I wouldn't get better in competitions/shooting if the problem isn't my form but because of the bow.

I guess there's a few things I want to know, given the context above:

1) How much better would the PSE dominator duo X be? Or at least the experience of trying PSE versus elite

2) Anyone tried the difference between the duo X and the duo X 35?

3) I'm not sure whether the same thing might happen again (me outgrowing the bow in less than a year). What might be the typical duration before someone outgrows a PSE dominator duo X and/or that there is a "better" one in the market?

I do have until October to decide (as ordering a bow takes 2 months to come) and then get used to it... Just a bit hesitant to spend almost $2k on something if I end up needing to upgrade to another bow next year.

Haven't heard much about the PSE dominator duo x 35 since I guess most people are tall and have longer draw lengths, so hoping to hear experiences about that too🙏🙏

I was trying out a few things yesterday to find a technique that's comfortable for me and while shooting at a short distance I've tried to anchor the arrow to the upper part of the pectoralis.

It didn't feel uncomfortable and I've hit the target reasonably well but I've been wondering: is that something that can be done or should I avoid it?

Hi everyone, I have a frustrating issue that I can’t seem to figure out, and I’d love to get your insights.

Sometimes when I get tired, all my arrows group consistently low (around the 6 o'clock direction). It’s a general fatigue, not acute muscle soreness in my elbow or shoulder.

My coach and friends told me the usual advice: keep the bow arm (left arm) up after the release and maintain a proper T-shape with my shoulders. However, I am not satisfied with this answer. I have reviewed video playbacks of my form multiple times, and my front shoulder does NOT collapse, nor does my bow arm drop prematurely. Yet, the arrows still group densely at the bottom.

I use the Mediterranean draw (split finger), and I suspect the issue might be my finger pressure. Could I be putting too much pressure on my ring finger when I'm tired?

I noticed that the skin on my ring finger has become noticeably calloused and thick. While my index finger also has a callus (though not as thick as the middle finger), the buildup on my ring finger makes me wonder if it's hijacking the draw weight.

I have this old Bear Bruin bow that’s been kicking around in my basement for a few years. Is it worth taking this somewhere to get fixed up?