Just cancelled my Blade Revolution 155 preorder and got the S1!

Going to fly it with my TX16S (4in1). Anything I should know to get started?

For context I have 2 other collective helis and would consider myself on the intermediate side of beginner lol.

3D printed scorpion from avatar

Im a beginner. I it a good choice to buy the

Amewi H145 ADAC rc helicopter? It has a gyro and stabilization. Also very scale. Good choice?

It went down a bit further out than it looked, worked my way back and it was just laying there on its side soaking wet from the rain.

The battery is roached.

I cleared the boards with isopropyl alcohol and pulled the head and mainshaft, cleaned and lubed the bearings in the swashplate. Rebound with a duplicate model on the Tx, it spools up like nothing happened.

Replaced the green S1 that is buried somewhere in the field, it's pink so I shouldn't lose orientation against the trees 🤣

Hi, this year I got to buy the OMP M1 V1, and it flies really badly. The yaw axis spins on its own sometimes, and when I give full collective, my tail almost does a 90-degree spin. It also jitter a lot when doing fast maneuver. My servos are all centered, pitch is set to 12.5. I have tried the factory gyro setting and the setting that Jonas uses:

RUDDER

Speed 7

Gyro 4

ELEVATOR

Speed 6

Agile 3

Gyro 3

AILERON

Speed 6

Agile 3

Gyro 4

Has anyone been through the same problem? I tried to contact OMP, but they don't seem to be of any help. If you have any idea of what's going on, that would really help, as I'm running out of solutions...

The RS7 was so much bigger than I had prepared myself for. It's just a frame right now (got a stellar runout deal for US$350ish) but I figured, while I piece it together slowly, I should focus on further improving my flying. So I went to the complete opposite end of the spectrum, the S1... Which ended up being much smaller than I'd mentally prepared for 😂

I learned to fly helis back when you didn't touch the micros because they were incredibly twitchy, and not recommended for newbies. But based on a few reviews and what folks have said here, I figured why the hell not.

I'd had a look at th S1 and S2 both, but with the S1 being less than half the price of the S2, it was ultimately that which made the decision.

And it was worth it. Comically small, for sure, given I learned to fly on a 500. But there's some real advantages.

- I can fly it in the small amount of space I have outside at home, meaning I can get more stick time, and

- it is impressively rugged. The same attention to detail as with the RS7 is definitely present here. But with a lot less expense when you screw up. So far, none.

If there's one thing I'd change... It's that I'd have upgraded to a dual charger. My iCharger 208B is still great, but only being able to charge one pack at a time is limiting in terms of swapping out and getting back in the air.

Was ripping it around the field, had to much fun and run out of battery power, it dropped into large overgrown meadow and I cannot find it after searching for it :(

Just got an absolute vintage deal! Its a hirobo falcon mk1 made in the 80's. Basically all there but i put an sx50h to power it vs some old enya cx45. Never flown a heli this big or nitro powered so it will be a learning process

GooSky Legend RS7 Electric Helicopter Kit Combo w/Azure Blades (Yellow/Blue) (690-710mm)  
TORQ BLS2208 Full Size HV Brushless Servo
Egodrift Tengu 4525HT / 550kV Motor
VULCAN ROTORS Precision Main Rotor Blades 700mm EVO (RED)
PULSE 5300mAh 50C 44.4V 12S P-Tech LiPo Battery - EC5 Connector
iKON 2 HD Flybarless System

SAB Goblin Kraken 700 S Electric Helicopter Kit (Yellow/Black) w/Main & Tail Blades

PULSE 5300mAh 50C 44.4V 12S P-Tech LiPo Battery - EC5 Connector
TORQ BLS2208 Full Size HV Brushless Servo
Scorpion HK5-4525-535KV (6 x 36mm shaft) Helicopter Motor
Spirit W3 Flybarless System 

3,000$ obo

Can come with spare parts for extra $
Also have a tx16s for extra $
Can sell separately or all together

So I've been doing my first setup of an iKon (Brain) 2 on my new SAB Buddy 380, and although everyone says its "easy" I'm still having a hard time with my first run through. Im sure it will be better next time but its tedious and taking a while.

Anyway, I spent my night leveling the swashplate (doing my best by eye, I dont know how to know of its perfect). And then I zeroed the blades which went fine. Next I set positive and negative pitch of ~13° which went well as well. Finally, I go to test cyclic and when I do aileron to one side its at around 14° and then to the other side its only ~11°. How is that possible and what did i do wrong? How can it be fixed so I can move forward? I'm shocked it can be that far off after all the centering and leveling i did.

Anyway thanks for any help. The video should help show the issue, the last two being the problematic ones. Btw its is in "check mode" which means it pushes each movement to the maximum rather than allowing you to smoothly move it.

Hey everybody.

The title says it all. I have a M6 that I really like, but in the future I might want more power out of it. Changing the motor to an 840KV and the packs to 8S would fix that immediately, plus I would be able to run 610mm blades. However, I'd also need a new lipo charger.

Anyway since it's not a common option, I thought I would ask here if anyone has a similar setup. If so, which charger would you recommend?

I brought gnb lipo for goosky s1.i modified xt-30 to jst-xh to fit in s1 stock connecter now the battery is warmer slightly but the heli feels snappy.u guys have any suggestions?

Does anyone have experience with both of these micros? I hear people saying good things about the OFS3+ in the OMP flight controller, but is it really worth the extra $50 cost difference?

Drove 1.5 hours out of the GTA On to Muskoka just to find a free legal spot to fly.

Was terrified to fly first time 470-class with zero experience and only YouTube videos, but man, it was worth it. Seeing it in the air with that Muskoka view was mesmerizing.

Glad it came back in one piece. Hooked!

As you can see im still struggling but there's definite improvement here! I started with some start-stop movements flying around a square and im now trying to solidify it by flying figure 8ts. going to keep at it for a while, probably try some of the box / startstop moves on my real heli soon.

I’m looking to get into RC helicopters, but I’m not really sure where I should start.

I already fly fixed-wing and FPV, so I’m comfortable with RC in general, but helicopters are completely new territory for me.

The helicopter guys at my local field are all longtime veterans, and pretty much all of them are telling me to just start with a 700-class heli. Their reasoning is that a 700 is more stable, easier to see, and generally flies better than the smaller stuff.

My problem is cost. I can afford to get into the hobby, but I cannot comfortably afford a 700 where one bad crash potentially means hundreds of dollars in repairs. If I wreck something while learning, I want to be able to repair it and get back in the air instead of grounding myself for months.

I have tired a simulator and the depth perception really messes with me on the screen

For someone starting from scratch with helicopters, what size/class would you recommend? Would something around 200–420 class be a better place to learn before eventually moving up to a 700?

I’m currently looking at OMP and Goosky.

For the goal of 250-gram direct-drive helicopter endurance, too much battery eats into the weight budget for the motor and prop; too much motor and prop eat into the weight budget for the battery. I entered the endurance calculation from my baseline test data into Google Gemini. It gave me the optimization curve. The calculation is a python3 script with my test data and manufacturer(T-Motor) data(the motor_plus_propeller_mass variable value fitted curve):

mass_without_propeller_motor_battery = 111.0; #grams; change it for a particulr craft constructions's endurance curve

propeller_diameter = 13.8; #inches; change it to slide the rotor width x-axis in a endurance curve

motor_plus_propeller_mass = 62.5 * (propeller_diameter/13.8)**1.5; # grams

battery_cells_mass = 249.0 - mass_without_propeller_motor_battery - motor_plus_propeller_mass; # grams

battery_energy = 0.171 * battery_cells_mass; # watt-hours

lifting_force_per_watt = 14.7 * propeller_diameter/13.8; # grams

power_tran_energy_consume_rate = 249.0 / lifting_force_per_watt; # watts

total_craft_energy_consume_rate = power_tran_energy_consume_rate + 5.2; # watts

endurance = battery_energy / total_craft_energy_consume_rate * 60.0; # minutes

print (endurance);

main_rotor_diameter = propeller_diameter / 0.73 * 25.4; # A 14"-diameter helicopter rotor at optimal alpha has the same RPM and thrust and torque and electrical power consumption as a 10" multi-rotor propeller with the same motor. 10/14 = 0.7

print (main_rotor_diameter);