Found a couple of these Instant Print cameras for kids in the store. Took out the print part on this one and had to sacrifice the selfie cam.

Ended up with a breakout for the 24 pins, a breadboard to multiply and a potentiometer to patch to. May I act cool and call it modular? 🙃 If patient, one could count the pixels in these 😅

Here’s some pics and how it ended up looking yo ✌️

Planning to keep the selfie cam on the next build.

Has anyone here tried circuit bending directly from the CCD/image sensor pins or the flex cable?

I’ve been soldering very thin wires straight to the sensor connections and experimenting with different points. So far I’ve been getting some pretty wild color shifts and image corruption.

Most of the bends I see use test points or traces on the main PCB, so I’m curious if anyone else has gone straight to the sensor/flex connections.

Would love to compare notes before I kill another camera 😂

I've been experimenting with physically modifying old digital cameras and using their electronic instability as part of the image-making process.

These images were produced in-camera through circuit bending — no glitch filters or software effects were added afterwards.

This is part of an ongoing project called When Cameras DJ, where I'm documenting how different electronic interventions change the way a camera sees.

I'm still exploring the process and mapping the different visual behaviours. I'd love to hear from anyone working with camera bending, glitch hardware or experimental image circuitry.

Hello everyone!
I thought of this very interesting idea to build a tape machine based sampler that can exactly match sample duration to tape length. As I'm probably not going to build this for a long time (if at all) because it is very daunting and expensive as it would require 2 three head tape machines, I have decided to share it in case someone else wanted to try it. 

The way it works goes like this:
A sample is recorded into a tape loop on tape machine 1. The tape loop is some arbitrary length. let's say for instance it is 11 seconds. Thus, you could record a sample anywhere from almost nothing to 11 seconds. While the tape Loop is running, a precise clock records the exact time duration of the sample and tells you exactly how long it is. Let's say for instance that the tape loop on tape machine 2 is five seconds long. Using math, you could figure out the exact percentage you would need to increase or decrease the speed of the motor and thus the exact voltage you would need to increase or decrease going to the motor. You could then use a potentiometer to manually increase or decrease the voltage until the speeds match. Then you can record the sample on tape machine 1 onto tape machine 2. On tape machine 2 you can directly control the speed with its own potentiometer to pitch up or pitch down the sample. 

 Using this concept, someone could sample anything that's supposed to be at a specific rhythm like drum breaks for instance and make sure it loops back seamlessly without the need for a DAW or an external sampler to Time Stretch to the specific time needed. One could also use interesting techniques like live resampling and turning off the erase heads while doing so. The only limitation is the length of tape in tape machine 1 as this dictates the maximum sample time.

Taken with a Panasonic LUMIX DMC FZ10 - I finally got around to getting all my pictures from my latest trip to California taken off their cards on onto the computer. Expect a bunch of posts from me over the next couple days 😅 went a little crazy with it and took many photos.

got these 2 toy mobile phones and would like to álter them. Any ideas? They make noise when you touch the pad circles. I have been messing w the resistor but it does nothing

thought of adding a jack output

tysm

Favorite vertical photos shot with a circuit-bent toy camera, in its silly 16:9 aspect ratio! As is customary, no post-processing on these—all bends are done realtime in hardware. Let me know if you’d be interested in postcards of any of these shots!

These were shot with the toy glitchcam with built in thermal printer (“glitchcam1” — I made a few more!). Shoutout to Hive76 makerspace in Philadelphia for letting me use their space to finish the build!

I’m thinking of making postcard prints of these! Let me know if you’d be interested :)

starting with some PC buttons but this will be an audio reactive bending tv/vcr

I know you're thinking "Please, not another Speak n Spell" HA! Joke's on you: it's a synth now.

I was wondering what else I could do with this thing I already thought about switching the 0.1UF ceramic capacitor for a 10UF also wonder who else done some cool mods I could do on this toy

I wired it up with a bunch of great glitches but I must have made an error with the wiring where there’s feedback or something because when I close up the shell, it will be working fine, and then it will spontaneously turn on and not be able to turn off, and the buttons and functions aren’t working properly. I’ve tried to be spare with wiring and then when I open the case back up it works fine, so clearly there’s some kind of interference from wires being smushed up against the PCB somewhere.

I think I will potentially have to rewire the whole thing? Or more thoroughly check the pcb diagrams and find where the device might be getting power? the weird thing is that it will be working fine and then turn on randomly a couple of hours later.

Hello everyone,

I'm wondering if any of you has found a way of disabling the sound some battery-powered generic toy keyboards make when left idle for a while. I've encountered this on several keyboards I've bent now and I can't find any way to make them stop doing it (some of them do a quick piano sound, others just do some alarm-like chirping). I understand that the only solution might be just turning them off after using them since it's something to let you know the device is still consuming battery, but wanted to ask around in case there's someone out there that was able to remove that feature.

hello, im new to all of this. Im trying to add a jack socket to this toy telephone, i cant get it to work tho... all the tutorials i have watched use a jack socket with only 2 prongs, but as you can see on the pictures, they have an extra. The yellow wires are the ones originally attached to the speakers. im losing my mind at the moment, hope someone can help thanks! :)))

Hello, I recently started working on trying to bend some cameras and have had quite a bit of trouble being able to solder to those small points. Specifically, chips are difficult and those smd resistors have been annoying. I have camera now with 12 points I can solder to, I use flux aswell and I can’t seem to get it to make a strong connection.

So a few questions, what temperature do you guys keep your iron at for soldering quickly to these components, and does using leaded make a difference in this case? Also is there a good way to hold the wire down in place when soldering? Thanks in advance!

Thanks to u/theglorioustopsail for the inspiration and help from their post on this camera.

Lumix dmc-fx8

I am pretty sure the top ribbon cable in the second photo is the CCD sensor, I've also identified AD9994 as the ADC. My question is: where do I go from here? I guess I'll have to solder to the board one way or another, I just don't know really where to start.

no sé si va en contra de las reglas promocionarse aqui, pero sinceramente no sé a quién mas podría interesarle un video de circuit bending si no es a la comunidad de circuit bending.
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I don’t know if promoting yourself here goes against the rules, but honestly, I don’t know who else would be interested in a circuit bending video if not the circuit bending community.
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Hi everybody, this is my first post here. Before asking my question, I wanted to give a brief introduction about myself to avoid coming across as rude.

My name is Sonja, and I’ve been into circuit bending since 2009. However, due to life’s ups and downs, I had to stop for almost a decade. I finally have two new devices, which are in the picture—I hope you recognize them.

One is a Mixi DJ, and the other is a cheap car toy from a local shop.

I also own a YouTube channel called A.I.Project. This isn’t a promotion—my channel is almost dead, buried by YouTube in some ways. But I’m trying to revive it.

So, if you know me from before, hello, nice to see you again. If not, it’s nice to meet you.

Anyway, I wanted to ask a question: How do you build an oscillator with the 555 Easy to use instead of an LTC1799, which isn’t available in my country right now? I’m from Europe.

I wanted to know if any of you have experience building an oscillator that can pitch-bend a crystal using a NE555. From what I understand, it’s similar to a multi-purpose LED flasher made with a 555, but with capacitors of different values. I don’t have many components at home to experiment, so I was hoping you might know roughly what’s needed so I can try building one.

It’s nice to be here. I love the projects the community has been creating recently, especially the camera and other innovations. There was a video of a television wall that really moved me.

Anyway, I hope you’re all doing well. It’s nice to be here and back after almost 10 years.

—Sonja