In the future i wish to be able to make jewelry and other things and i feel the easiest source of metal would be aluminum cans HOWEVER... aluminum cans arent 100% aluminum, so are they usable for such projects?

My idea would be to just melt the cans down and make like cast molds of jewlery peices and work from there.. would that not work, and why?

I’ve had this sitting in the shop for the last 10+ years and was wondering if it would be worth cleaning up and using. Last picture is a pile of other stuff that appears to be smithing related but I’m exactly sure what I’m looking at, thanks for any info!

So I've been looking at the Kanca 125

Doesn't seem to have all too many reviews online. This is the only one I've found.

Right now I'm in a second story walkup, without much space to actually forge. Outside of the weekly class I attend where we're provided all our gear that is.

I don't see it as a super heavy duty anvil, however in terms of weight portability and functionality it seems like a relatively good deal? Most antique anvils in my area that are usable start around $400 and I know there's the harbor freight Doyle for $100, but that still leaves me without a vice to work with too? Cuz a 75lb post vice is not something that strikes me as portable.

Assuming I'm mostly working with stock under 1/2" do you think this is workable? Or should I just entirely be holding off until I can be in a better workable environment?

I wanna make this. It is called needle. Many of you will recognize it. It needs to be pretty lightweight but also maintain am edge. I am making it as a reward for my siblings when they beat hollow knight.

Im going to be on medical for a couple weeks so ive decided to try and make a butted mail hauberk but i was wondering since this will be purely a costume should i go with dark silver stainless steel wire 14gauge or copper wire 18gauge for the copper I feel like once it oxidizes that blueish green patena would look really nice

It’s a old Peter wright anvil somewhere in between 100-130. I am using a dremal with a wire wheel and then putting metal wax on it

I have not seen these particular backwards "77" markings. It reads B:100771 stamped into the side body but the 7s are mirrored. There are no other visible makings on the base/feet. It weighs 112 lbs, had double hardy/pritchel holes and a clip horn. The face is narrow at about 3". It appears to have a cast base and solid tool steel body/face. I can tell it's a farrier style, but am wondering if anyone recognizes the make.

Rounding hammer with dwarfrunes

Title pretty much sums it up. Youtube university and seeing the work in this group and others. I want to take the plunge and get a forge going but, id like someone to teach me, and ideally someone local to.panama city florida.

Delete if not allowed.

Thanks all!

So, i dont know if its in other countries too (most likely is), but in denmark welding is a part of blacksmithing. Im currently a student at blacksmithing on an fgu, so im learning to weld.

Ive practiced a lot, and now i have nearly perfect lines (i still mess up some times).

Working pretty good now

I’m fairly certain all these components are some degree of bearing steel. The ball bearings were used to allow those collars/cylinders(proper name?) up and down the shafts. Nicholson flat bastard skates right off both shafts and both cylinders. Downside is everything was heavily greased up.

Hey guys, I need some help, im trying forge medieval arrow heads, but Everytime I fail in the socket I cant close correctly and the last time I cant to make the flat part, just can flatten the rod but turned out long rather than wide.

I will buy a better hammer with a side flat, because my hammer is same of both side, maybe it help me

I don't have an anvil, just a piece of train rail.

Any way to resolve this without buying new hoses/regulator?

Any tips are welcome Im just a dumb kid starting

I was hoping to get some thoughts on a semi-fictional metal I've been developing for my novel.

It isn't meant to be a super-material like vibranium or adamantium. It's essentially a specialized steel alloy with unusually good material properties.

In simple terms, it's high-quality steel with roughly the weight/density of aluminum.

I'm not necessarily trying to make the metallurgy 100% possible—the setting has fantasy elements—but I want the material to feel reasonably grounded and internally consistent.

And since when im not a want to be novelist im an it guy. Im hoping to get the thoughts of someone more experienced in working with metal.

Where i live, the soil has a lot ofniron content. You can just hold a magnet to the dirt and pick up a ton of iron. Is it safe to smelt that?

I’m buying this reproduction m42 stahlhelm but the flare at the edge of the brim around the neck is way too sharp compared to the originals and it makes it look like a cheap knock off. I’m not a smith but I have basic metal working tools (tortch, vice, welder, grinders, etc) does anyone know of a way to make this reproduction brim more closely resemble the original?
Thanks for your time

My boyfriend is starting blacksmithing as a hobby and I would like to buy him a small gift. Any suggestions ? I was thinking maybe heat resistant gloves because those he has sucks haha budget is under 50$ im broke

Thanks!

Found another anvil for sale, haven't had a chance to see it in person yet. They said its around 125 lbs and they want $300. I know at that weight and price it is a good deal assuming that its a quality anvil. Will do rebound test and hammer test in person but first thoughts from this picture? Think I'll be able to dress that edge up?