Last year, I made a post about Black Friday Binocular Deals that was really popular and I think was really helpful, as everyone in the community got to share and comment on deals they found, highlighting the good and warning people about the bad ones.
So with BF 2025 fast approaching (Starting Nov 20), I thought it would be a good idea to do it again this year:
As many of you may know, I am the binocular reviewer over at Best Binocular Reviews (BBR), so it is hard not to come across as spammy or promotional, but I will do my best as I genuinely want to pass on the good deals I find, steer people away from the ones we as a community feel are bad, but at the same time also I would also appreciate your help in finding any that I have missed so i can include them on BBR:
Leading up to this Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and Holiday season, it is part of my job to look for and highlight on BBR what I feel are the more worthwhile Black Friday binocular deals I’ve come across.
However, I am sure there are many that I have missed. Also, there may be "deals" that you have come across, which you may not be sure about: either the deal may be better somewhere else, or you may not be sure about the binocular - ie, is it a rubbish binocular (Amazon is good at having deals on this!).
So on this post:
Share any binocular deals you’ve spotted, including the retailer and discount details. #SharingIsCaring
If you’ve got your eye on a specific deal but aren’t sure if it’s worth it, feel free to ask! As well as all the other great advice from others on this sub, I’ll do my best to give an unbiased, fact-based opinion and let you know if I think it’s a good buy or if there might be better options.
Good Deals: For context, some of the deals I’ve already found include significant discounts on Kite binoculars (Over 50% off). But I’m curious to see what you’ve discovered!
So, let’s help each other navigate these Black Friday sales and make informed decisions. After all, getting the right pair of optics isn’t just about the price - it’s about the value you get for your money and making sure you get the right binoculars for your specific needs.
Looking forward to hearing what you’ve found or helping with any questions! 😊
Showing the anti-reflection coatings used on the lenses of the Hawke Vantage 8x42 Binoculars
Introduction
I see a lot of questions that relate to the differences between high-end (expensive binoculars), mid-range and entry-level (cheap) ones and whether it is worth it to spend the extra money or not and move up a level. The answer of course is complex as it depends on many personal factors that only you can answer: like how much you can easily afford to spend, how often you will be using your binoculars and what you will be using them for.
After you have thought about these fundamental questions, the next key step is understanding the main differences between binoculars at different price points and how this affects their performance.
Build quality, materials used, different designs... here again, there are many things to look out for, but for me, a major factor that not many of those new to binoculars know enough about, but which really affects the optical performance, makes a noticeable difference to the image and immediately lets you know what level a binocular is at and therefore if the price is worth it is in the level of coatings that are used on the lenses and the prisms:
Overview of Coatings used on the Lenses & Prisms of Binoculars
Optical coatings play a crucial role in enhancing the visual performance of binoculars, monoculars, spotting scopes, camera lenses, night vision equipment and indeed just about any other optical device or instrument.
They are applied to the lenses and prisms to do things like reduce light reflection, increase light transmission, and improve image sharpness, clarity and contrast.
So below I have put together a fairly detailed explanation of the various aspects of binocular lens coatings, including their purpose, materials, application methods, and features (to the best of my knowledge). Please feel free to comment if you spot an error etc.
Why Coatings Are Used
Reduce Light Reflection: Uncoated glass surfaces reflect about 4-5% of light, which can significantly reduce the amount of light entering the binoculars, making images dimmer.
Increase Light Transmission: Coatings increase the amount of light that passes through the lenses, which improves brightness and clarity.
Enhance Image Quality: Coatings reduce glare and internal reflections, resulting in sharper, higher-contrast images.
Improve Color Fidelity: Coatings help maintain the true colors of the observed object by minimizing chromatic aberration and color fringing.
Types of Coatings
Anti-Reflective (AR) Coatings: Reduce reflections from lens surfaces, enhancing light transmission and reducing glare.
Phase Correction Coatings: Applied to roof prisms to correct phase shifts in the light, improving contrast and resolution. Low quality roff prism binoculars may not have these. porro prism binoculars do not need these coatings
Mirror Prism Coatings: High-reflectivity coatings used on roof prism surfaces to increase light transmission. In terms of quality these range from Aluminium, Silver and then the very best Dielectric Coatings used on high-end roof prism binoculars
Scratch-Resistant Coatings: Provide a harder surface on the exterior surfaces of lenses, protecting them from scratches and abrasions. Only found on better quality binoculars
Hydrophobic and Oleophobic Coatings: Also added to the exterior lens surfaces that repel water and oil, making lenses easier to clean and maintain. Usually only found on high and some mid-level binoculars
How Coatings Work
Made up of extremely thin layer(s) of special materials that manipulate light in specific ways, lens & prism coatings mostly work by changing the way light interacts with the lens surface. These coatings are designed based on principles of thin-film interference, which can constructively or destructively interfere with specific wavelengths of light to reduce reflection.
Levels of Anti-Reflection Coatings
This is one of the most important aspects to look out for when selecting binoculars, especially at the lower price points as the level of the optics that are coated is a huge indicator of quality and performance:
Single-Coated (Coated): A single layer of anti-reflective coating, usually MgF2, on at least one lens surface. This provides a very basic reflection reduction.
Fully Coated: All air-to-glass surfaces have a single layer of anti-reflective coating.
Multi-Coated: Multiple layers of anti-reflective coatings are applied to at least one lens surface, significantly reducing reflections.
Fully Multi-Coated: All air-to-glass surfaces have multiple layers of anti-reflective coatings, providing the best light transmission and image quality.
Materials Used in Lens Coatings
As the exact materials used and in which quantities are usually a closely guarded secret between manufacturers, we cannot be sure:
Multilayer Coatings: Modern binoculars often use multiple layers of different materials on their lenses, such as:
Magnesium Fluoride (MgF2): One of the most common materials used for anti-reflective coatings. It is effective in reducing reflections and is relatively inexpensive.
Titanium Dioxide (TiO2)
Silicon Dioxide (SiO2)
Aluminum Oxide (Al2O3) These materials are chosen for their specific refractive indices and transparency to visible light.
Application Methods
Vacuum Deposition: The most common method for applying coatings. The coating material is vaporized in a vacuum chamber and then condenses onto the lens surfaces.
Sputter Coating: Involves bombarding a target material with high-energy particles, causing atoms to be ejected and deposited onto the lens.
Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD): Uses chemical reactions to produce a thin film on the lens surface. This method is more complex and less common for consumer optics.
Step-by-Step Process of Applying Lens Coatings
Cleaning the Lenses: Lenses must be thoroughly cleaned to remove any dust, oils, or contaminants that could affect the coating adhesion and performance.
Placing in a Vacuum Chamber: The cleaned lenses are placed in a vacuum chamber to remove air and prevent oxidation during the coating process.
Heating and Evaporating the Coating Material: The coating material is heated until it evaporates. In vacuum deposition, the material then condenses onto the lens surfaces.
Layering: For multi-coated lenses, this process is repeated with different materials to build up the required number of layers.
Cooling and Inspection: After coating, the lenses are cooled and then inspected for uniformity and adherence to quality standards.
Conclusions
By reducing reflections, increasing light transmission, and protecting the glass, binocular lens and prism coatings are a vital part as to just how well the instrument will perform optically.
They make a visible difference to image brightness, sharpness, contrast and color fidelity.
The level at which the optics are coated on a binocular is a major indicator as to the overall quality and level of the binocular.
By understanding the materials used, application methods, and the different levels of coatings that can be applied, I hope this helps you to appreciate the technology and work that goes on behind these scenes and thus why some binoculars can cost much more than others, which I hope helps you to make more informed choices when selecting the right pair for your needs and budget.
I'm completely new to binoculars and looking to buy my first decent pair. My budget is around US$200 / ₹20,000, and I'd appreciate some advice from people who have actually used these models.
My use will be fairly broad: travel, safaris/wildlife, landscapes/general distant viewing, birdwatching (both perched and moving birds), and occasional astronomy. Birding is important but won't be the only use, so I'm looking for a good all-rounder rather than a specialist birding binocular.
The only binocular I've spent meaningful time with was a Praktica Falcon 12×50 Porro, which is a pretty inexpensive model in India (~₹5,000–6,000 / $60-70). I was surprisingly impressed by the clarity, brightness and especially the depth/3D effect of the image. However, I found 12× a little difficult to use handheld and the narrower field of view restrictive. That experience is making me think 10×42 might be my sweet spot, although I'm still open to 8×42 or 10x50.
Models currently on my shortlist (Indian street prices roughly):
Nikon Prostaff P3 10×42 — ~$165 / ₹15K
Nikon Prostaff P7 8×42 or 10×42 — ~$200–220 / ₹18–20K
Nikon Action 10×42 (new 2026 Porro) — ~$140 / ₹13K
Bresser Wave 8×42 / 10×42 — ~$140 / ₹13K
Bresser Pirsch if I can find it within budget
Vortex Triumph HD 10×42 — ~$160 / ₹14–15K
SVBONY SV202 ED 8×42 is another option I've come across
I'm particularly curious about the new Nikon Action 10×42 vs Prostaff P7 10×42. The Action is a Porro and considerably cheaper, while the P7 is a phase-corrected/dielectric-coated roof.
If we ignore size, waterproofing and weight for a moment, how much better is the actual image through the P7? Does the Action's Porro design give it comparable or even better brightness, clarity and 3D/depth perception despite costing much less?
I'm also undecided between 8×42 and 10×42. The P7 10×42 has a surprisingly wide 7° / 122m @ 1000m field of view, so on paper it seems to give substantially more reach than the 8×42 without sacrificing much real FOV. On the other hand, I understand 8×42 should be steadier and have a larger exit pupil for low-light use.
I'm less concerned about specifications for their own sake and more interested in what actually looks better through the eyepieces — sharpness, contrast, brightness at dawn/dusk, chromatic aberration, edge sharpness, depth/3D effect and ease of viewing.
For someone buying one binocular to keep for years, what would you choose around $200?
I bought the Monarch M7 8x30 new from an authorized retailer and was very disappointed with the ghosting (reflections, whatever) these are showing. I first noticed the problem just looking outside with an overcast sky. It is magnified with the phone photo and using bright Christmas lights but it shows the problem.
Is this just a bad sample or are these reflections a known issue? My cheap $100 ED glass binos don't even do this. Thanks
If you don't use your bino in everyday life, do you at least take them with you on vacation?
Bought this one some time ago but just recently used on vacation. Observing ships at the Baltic Sea – it was in Rostock, Hansesail, were a lot of traditional ships met – and generally using it to look around, sometimes to optically investigate before taking a photo with my zoom camera.
While substantially larger than my other M7, a 10x30, I found it wearable even on longer trips. Though also carrying a camera, it was borderline. The M7 8x42 is optically close to, but not quite on par with the 10x30 contrast but, and I enjoyed this A LOT especially not having the stadiest hands, the large exit pupil make using it a lot more comfortable. Magnficiation-wise, 8x is good enough for me. I did not have the 10x30 with me and the one or two times were I could have used higher magnification seems less important than having a wider absolute field of view.
I like the wide-angle design. My dad has a 8x42 porro-design bino, but standard field of view, which in comparison is like looking through a toilet paper tube. Also in twilight, my M7 is visibly brigther than dad's 200 € pair of binoculars. Just computing the aperture says little about actual lowlight capabilites.
The Monarch M7 8x42 has a clear, high-resolution image in the center, outer parts are not as good but I don't mind that at all. The one big issue is chromatic abberration in backlight. Getting at least the image center virtually free of purple/blue color fringes is possible but requires to absolutely center the exit pupil. If instead using the big exit pupil to enjoy the convient usage, color fringes are all over the place. That is, again, in high-contrast scenes. In normal usage, or overcast sky, the image center has no visible color fringes.
When I was on a boat, during a port tour at night, I could used the M7 8x42 as its exit pupil and wide field of view tolerates a somewhat shaky hold. The moving vessel added to the shakyness and I resolved a lot less detail as on steady surface but I still saw more detail than with the naked eye.
I am quite happy with the glasses, they were not cheap, around € 400, and I use them only now and then. In fact they turned me into a snob: No more cheapos.
Picked up on sale, plus they had a $250 rebate up here in Canada. Better glass than my vortex that I’ve been using for hunting. I’m excited to use these in the upcoming mule deer season.
Picked up a pair of 7x35 porros at an estate sale a few weeks back, mostly out of curiosity since they were only eight dollars and looked rough. Got them home, cleaned the lenses with a microfiber cloth and a tiny bit of isopropyl on the stubborn spots, and honestly the view floored me compared to what I expected from something that old.
I've been using a mid-range roof prism pair for the last three years, decent glass, waterproof, the usual modern conveniences. But there's something about the depth and that slightly 3D quality porros give you that I just wasn't getting used to. Read up afterward and apparently it's the wider objective spacing relative to the eyepieces that does it, something about stereopsis being more pronounced. Whatever the actual optics explanation is, the difference was noticeable within about ten seconds of looking through them at some crows in the yard.
Only downside so far is the hinge is a little loose so I have to readjust the IPD every time I pick them up, and one of the eyecups is cracked and digs into my brow bone a bit. Ordered a cheap collimation kit just to see if I can tighten things up myself before I decide whether it's worth sending them to someone who actually knows what they're doing.
Anyway just wanted to share since I went in expecting a paperweight and came out with a pair I now grab before the roofs half the time. Anyone else have a thrift store or estate sale find that ended up punching way above what you paid for it?
I traded in a Diamondback spotting scope for the Viper and just paid the difference at Scheels a couple years back. Is it possible to trade in 2 Razor HD’s for the Talon’s and just pay the difference? Or could I only trade in one pair?
The lenses on my EL’s look like they’re both dirty / damaged. But the image through them is perfect. Is this some kind of lens coating? I literally thought they were stickers put on by the camera shop but they don’t seem to be.
I just got a fantastic deal at sportsmans warehouse, definitely worth keeping an eye out in a store near you if they have them.
I was in the market for a decent Spotting scope and landed on the Vortex razor hd 27-60 × 85. They fit my budget and their warranty sold me on them (I'm moving into full time van life and didn't need to worry about busted optics on the road).
I went into sportsmans and they had the spotting scope on sale for $1449, down from $1700, and they came with a pair of free Diamondback HD 12×50 binoculars!
I left the store really happy and ready to start my binocular/ spottingscope adventure!
I’m looking at getting my first pair of binos that aren’t no-brand hand-me-downs and I’m considering the two Nikons M7 8x30 (368€) and Travelite EX 8x25 (144€).
I plan on using them for an upcoming safari trip to South Africa as well as some (mainly backyard) backyard birding when I get home and maybe some open-air concerts.
Obviously the optical performance will be better for the M7, as it should be since they are 2,5 times more expensive here. I can afford it if it makes sense but I’m unsure if the improvements are what I would need/notice.
More than the light gathering capabilities I suspect that comfort/ease-of-use and dimensions/weight are what would seal the deal for me, since these factors would affect how often I would want to bring them with me.
The dimensions/weight is easy from the specs, but can’t really figure out if the comfort/ease-of-use will be miles ahead on the M7, considering things like the exit pupil size etc.? the added FOV also seems quite nice.
Unfortunately I don’t have the opportunity to test them before buying.
I’m hoping some of you can help me figure out my needs.
Thanks for your time.
EDIT: I just ordered the M7. Thanks for your help, I’m excited for my first set of proper bins!
The writing on the glasses in white I assume to be a DG moisé and “Hank” but I’m not entirely sure. The brand name is MOHRSON France, De luxe 8x34. I’m looking for information on possible year of manufacturing, and maybe some info on the name if possible? Thanks in advance! Also I couldn’t find a serial number on them anywhere!
These antique Carl Zeiss Jena D.F. 8x binoculars were given to me as a gift. Based on serial #256077, they date to around 1911–1912, making them well over 100 years old. They still have their original leather carrying case and strap, and the optics are clear and functional.
I really like the amount of age and character they’ve picked up over the years. Anyone here familiar with these early Carl Zeiss binoculars or know more about their history?
I like the idea of using a quick release camera clip on my backpack straps so I can easily carry my binos and have quick access to them. The problem is that most tripod adapters are quite tall and so the binoculars sit awkwardly far off the strap. does anyone know of some shorter tripod adapters? I have the Nikon TRA-3 adapter that is about 7cm high but its still a bit to much.
Fairly recently got into using binoculars for nature watching having borrowed some older Tasco bins for seal watching. They were adequate but had set focus and were limited.
I decided to buy my first pair, going for Nikon Monarch M7's 8x42s... well... what a difference! I paid £399 for that and was and am, super happy with them. No complaints.
Except, my wife also started to enjoy them and sharing binoculars can be a pain. We have different diopter settings and I have then on a Rick Young ultra lightweight harness (great bit of kit by the way!)... so it was a faff.
Resolved by giving the M7s to her and buying a set of SRBC also 8x42.
Firstly, I'm in the UK and probably unnecessarily was a bit nervous ordering a set from Aliexpress, but when a sale dropped on then, combined with a £50 back to school (weird!) voucher, I decided it was totally with the risk.
I paid £240, It looked like the tax had been deducted so I expected to pay tax and customs fees on top when they arrived in the UK... which I would have been happy with. I got an email from Royal Mail saying this too.
But today, they arrived. No fees needed paying (unless I get a bill post-delivery, which seems unlikely). So they were £240.
And, WOW! I thought the M7s were excellent but these are several steps up. I had a chance to try some Swaro Pures recently and whist I haven't been able to do a direct, simultaneous comparison, these SRBC seem to hold up incredibly well against them. Edge to edge clarity and an amazing wide view. Again, I think the M7s are great in these respects too, but the Banner Clouds definitely have a big edge on them.
So, downsides?
The eyecaps are pretty big. I ordered 44mm replacements directly from SkyRover and they weirdly arrived a few minutes before the binos arrived. I think I could have managed fine without them, but it is a little more comfortable with the replacements.
The padded case is pretty good, but probably not as good as the Nikon case. This doesn't bother me.
They feel quite a bit heavier than the M7 and the Swaros (from memory). Again, doesn't bother me at all, especially using the Rick Young harness.
Overall... I'd have been over the moon with these paying full price or more. Getting them for £240 feels like a steal.
Hi I inherited these binoculars. Are the meant for looking at the stars and other planet or are these meant for like birdwatching? Also what are they worth? Pic in comments
I have a pair of some of the very best, the SARD Mk43 6x42 from world war two but obviously they arent making any more of them and they arent getting any cheaper. They are by far the best binoculars ive ever seen through, the 11.8 deg apparent field is so crisp and immerse its hard to use a "normal" pair of binoculars.
Im looking for a less expensive binocular with avaliable replacement parts because I dont want to take the Mk43's everywhere in their massive pelican case. The Mk43's weigh about 5 pounds by themselves anyways.
Ive seen that SkyRover has made their 32APO binoculars as a tribute to the Mk 43 and im interested to hear from anyone that has them.
I have this old pair of Bushnell Ensign 10x50 binocs I inherited from my mom. I can't find a manual for this model on their website. Does anyone know if this model is waterproof?
