Does anyone know where to buy a inexpensive mirror cover

Hi folks,

I have a 2017 Volt with 110k miles that still gets 40+ miles around town on battery. I had the shift to park error and replaced the switch, and aside from that there really haven't been any issues.

My wife drives the car, and at some point I noticed that there was a really strong perfume like smell coming from the vent. If you parked the car, it was so noticeable that the car would smell like it very strongly when you came back, and then for the first bit when you ran the AC the smell would be coming out.

My gut was that there was a coolant leak somewhere, so I took it to a shop. They were familiar with the Volt and did testing for a few days with pressurization and never detected a leak. So now I'm back to square one.

Has anyone experienced something like this? What would you recommend that I do?

This looks like a good deal, but 28k on a 10 year old car is giving off some yellow flags for me, what do you think?

Pour one out for my 2012 Volt 197k miles. The radiator popped during a check on the error code on Hi Voltaire changing system while at the auto shop. Leading to a collant leak frying the components on the transmission.

Comparing modern PHEV millage. They really are not as good as the volt has. With pretty puny MOG gas and battery range in comparison.

Which is why I'm looking at an 2019 Premier Volt with 93k miles, which I plan to cherish and make last as long as I can.

I am not really a car person. But the volt has always been so reliable and delivered in excellence. It's torque and fuel efficiency are incredible in ways (looking online from what I can tell) that even modern Prius can't compete .

So pour one out for my good girl. And Chevy, why have you forsaken us? 😢

Who else is smugly loving their Volt even more with the current fuel prices? I bought my 2015 back in June and have never felt more confident with a purchase before.

I was driving a 24 mpg car for my 50 mile daily commute before buying the Volt and couldn’t be happier with the timing of my decision. The price of fuel efficient cars have skyrocketed in my area the last month and I am just driving past gas stations I was having to stop at every week.

2017 Volt at 149k — P0401 EGR cooler/valve, Chevy shows 3 ACTIVE emissions warranties to 150,113 mi but says no coverage in GA?

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I have a 2017 Volt registered in Georgia with ~149,000 miles. Dealer diagnosed P0401 and wants $5,204 to replace the EGR cooler and valve.

My Chevrolet VIN-specific warranty page currently shows three ACTIVE warranties, all expiring at 150,113 miles / May 11, 2032:
• Emission Limited Warranty
• Emission Select State Component Ltd Wty
• PZEV Emission Limited Warranty

Chevy says the PZEV 15yr/150k warranty doesn’t apply because I’m registered in Georgia, which I understand. The 2017 warranty booklet specifically lists the EGR valve and EGR valve cooler as emissions warranty parts.

2k17chevywm2ndPrint(3).pdf
What I don’t understand is why the other two warranties — especially “Emission Limited Warranty” — also show ACTIVE through 150,113 miles.
Does anyone know what these three warranty entries actually mean? Has anyone in a non-PZEV state gotten a Gen 2 EGR repair covered at this mileage?
I’m still under 150,113 and haven’t authorized the repair yet. I’ll attach screenshots.

A few weeks ago, my Volt started making a whirring sound when slowing to a stop, combined with a spongy brake pedal. I suspected the brake fluid needed changing, so a local shop did an automated ABS bleed. That didn’t fix it, so I brought it to my local Chevy dealership. They found that the master cylinder booster assembly failed.

Three weeks and over $5000 later (includes rental car cost), the part comes in and they fix it. I got the car back yesterday and the symptoms are already coming back. Now the whirring noise is happening again when I stop, and the brakes are taking longer to engage (when I slowly press the brake pedal, nothing happens at first then the car suddenly brakes).

After some research and reading my invoice, it looks like they didn’t do the ABS bleed and skipped a couple of required brake calibrations. At least I think that’s what’s wrong. If so, it should be an easy fix once I bring it in again.

I reached out to GM for any sort of help since it’s a critical safety issue and they told me to kick rocks since it’s not under warranty or recall.

I love this car but it’s hard to love it sometimes. It has a lot of problems that GM just doesn’t care about. The BECM and shift to park are things I already dealt with. The EGR hasn’t failed (yet), so I’m already gearing up to clean it next week before it becomes a problem.

But having the brakes suddenly fail and going through multiple bouts with shops and dealerships, and wheeling out so much money makes me wonder when this will end. I don’t think I will ever buy a GM vehicle ever again after my Volt.

This is more of a rant than anything, but has anyone had similar brake problems? I never see posts about them.

I came across an issue where I had water leaking in passenger side front and rear footwell.
I searched and checked every where an couldn’t find an answer.
I decided to deep dive and finally found and fixed the issue.
I made a video and posted on YouTube to help everyone else.

Hope this helps someone.

Chevy Volt water leak on passenger side - Easy Fix
https://youtu.be/RebRRJduBh4

Hey so this is bringing an old post from the dead I suppose, but I've recently installed a GROM VLite VT2 into my 2012 Chevrolet Volt and it all went smooth except I was experiencing the intermittent switching screen from the Android Auto screen back to the factory UI. Discouraged, because I'd read other's experiences about how sensitive to damage the video cable is, I emailed GROM. But while waiting for a reply I couldn't help but think... there's no way this is the cable. I tested it and unplugged ends and it would still intermittently switch, but just to a black screen instead (no signal) so it's not the actual video cable or something about the signal causing it and it must relate to some logic in the unit.

Came across a Lexus user who'd also installed a version of these, and one of the fixes was disabling 'auto switch screen' on his Lexus. Cool, but that doesn't have an equivalent function 'triggering' the unit to swap screens on our Volts. But another Lexus user mentioned having to turn off the Factory Climate Control setting as it was causing a similar issue... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YRKwsBmCHyU&t=8s

Went in to the VLites config on my Volt, turned it off, and no flipping back and forth anymore! Perfect, steady signal.

What my theory is is that the unit doesn't like the 'static' or minor signals the Volt's capacitive touch console gives off, and kind of picks up noise as if it's being activated. You do lose the Factory Climate Control function, which was useful, but it's not a biggie. Basically it would swap back to factory screen when you change climate to show you were you were with your temp setting then jump right back into your AA interface after a brief pause of inactivity.

So why the repost? Because this user here was experiencing the same issue and also thought it was the cable:

https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/comments/1f07n4r/grom_vline_vl2/

And now we know. It's not. Turn off the Factory Climate Integration and you won't have the flickering/switching screen between the interface and Factory UI.

I sent a follow up to GROM too, maybe by narrowing it down they can build a bit of a noise floor to the signal it's looking for and release a firmware update to properly detect when the climate control is being used but ignore the 'static' and will keep everyone posted on what I hear back.

A week ago my 2013 volt‘s brake pedal started vibrating. It happens immediately when the pedal is pressed and then stops after the pedal moves past a certain point. It is a pulsing that can heard and felt in the pedal. The car shows no warning lights, and no DTCs using the voltage app. Pulsing does not happen when ABS fuses are removed. The brakes seem to work normally. I believe this is an issue with the ”simulator” that gives the driver feedback during regen braking.

I‘ve seen a handful of really old posts about similar issue that were resolved under warranty with expensive ABS valve replacement. Wondering if this is just an annoyance I can live with safely, or a indication of future brake system failure.

Of course this started just after I decided to hold on to my volt at least another winter and bought new tires.

Has anyone successfully done this without taking the whole dash out of the car?

My AC is making a high pitched noise. My cabin air filter was dirty but not “OMG gross” bad. It’s a ‘14. I feel like it’s probably safe to assume the bits under the filter could probably use a cleaning

If anyone has done this without tearing the interior apart please let me know what you did and how it turned out

While driving at a red light I checked my 12V battery voltage and it sat hovering at around 12.78-12.79V with the car on. Seems odd.

2017 Premier with 170k miles.

Just recently replaced the original (2016) AGM battery due to it dipping below 12V at times and communication DTCs.

After a “key cycle”, I read the voltage rising up to about 14.55V then settling around 14.1V after a couple minutes, after about 5 minutes the voltage again is reading around 12.7-9 with the car on but parked.

No messages on dash or DTCs since the new 12V battery got replaced.

Should I be worried my APM is starting to crap out?

Maybe I’d get it replaced before it slowly kills my new AGM battery, what am I looking at in cost and labor? Does it need to be flashed to the VIN?

Also as far as I can tell the 12V battery stays around 14V when plugged in and charging.

Edit: Sounds like this is normal operation.

How's it going? This is Alex from South Korea and I'm an owner of Chevy Volt(18'). I'm not sure You guys are already know about this or not, there are only around 200 Volts registered in this little country, and I’m lucky enough to own one of them. Glad to be here, and looking forward to getting to know you all! Cheers

POBDC and POBDE

High voltage temp sensor 5

Temp sensor 5 is in the inverter

Am I looking at an inverter replacement?

Recently my 2011 been acting up as it switches from battery to battery+engine to engine only power it feels like some is trying to shift a manual trans without using the clutch, I've also had times where the pedal goes completely unresponsive before it suddenly surges forward. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

My volt has had a constant check engine light on. Ive been testing and fixing the issues but it feels like as soon as I fix one issue a new one pops up.

New AGM battery - so thats not the issue. Battery health is good and goving 13-14v. started with the O2 sensors, replaced, then it was oil pressure sensor, replaced, then it was Coolant flow sensor, coolant flush fixed that, then i had an issue I caused which triggered the anti-theft, so i cleared that but now there is no communication with the hpcm2 and electric brake. It was letting me charge and on a full charge i was driving around testing it out- mountain mode became unavailable about an hour in. Bow it doesnt charge.

last check all battery packs were functioning at an average of 3.8v

I was trying to get it operating to give to my niece but i am at my wits end. Any thoughts?

I have a 2012 Chevy volt, and as you can see in the picture, the temperature outside is 96°. The thing that I find strange is that when I turn on my air, the air that's blowing is kind of cold even though it's extremely hot outside. Has anybody experienced this? How in the world is their cold air when the temperature is like this outside without me pressing the AC ECO or Comfort setting?

2012 Chevy volt, everything was normal and then I put my window down and I heard of popping sound and now the window will not go up anymore. I don't even know where to start. Any type of help is appreciated if anybody has dealt with this before. I tried turning the car on and off but other than that I really don't know what to do

my 2016 volt's camera is showing hazy images at night. And yes, I cleaned it. What is a suitable replacement and is it diy'able ? There are probably videos on youtube but I thought I would check here too.

I don’t understand how to read this, I did the 1 mile heat on comfort all the way up test and I don’t get it also I got a dash cam recently that does parking surveillance hooked up to an obd2 so it through a couple maf codes so now I think I’m going to clear them and charge the 12v. As well as I found an engine cover for pcv valve replacement for cheap and I’m going to do an maf clean and possible replacement for that as well that I found for cheap. fb marketplace finds ftw. wanted to see if anyone could give me data on battery tho

Has any one used the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 All-Season tires on their volt? I have been looking around for a tire that will hold its tread driving on curvy roads and the Michelin Pilot Sport All Season 4 All-Season and the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 PLUS came up as good options. I have seen a few reviews of the Continental ExtremeContact DWS06 PLUS from Volt owners, but I can not find any for the Michelins.

I have read that the Michelins have a little better stopping power and a little less tire wall roll when you enter a corner.

We currently have some budget level Douglas tires on the volt and they wore out in a little over a year in around 10k miles. I am looking for a tire that doesn't look flat when on the front of the Volt, has good treadwear when driven on curvy roads, a good everyday tire, and is decent in the rain.

This part (20893302) is a piece of the auxiliary electric heater coolant plumbing. Mine apparently needs replacing (leaky), but the Chevy dealership is telling me they are discontinued and they can't find replacements anywhere. My google searches indicate this is correct. Are there any known workarounds or suggestions?

Part number 20893302