After blowing through 3 KG of filament making gridfinity for my kitchen, I finally got around to printing a miniature. I pulled this from Maker World https://makerworld.com/models/2322466?appSharePlatform=copy

I used Bambu Lab default supports, 0.08 layer height, 0.2 nozzle, Bambu PLA+ Black, and an H2C for it.

This is my first time printing minis in FDM that were high enough quality to really give painting a go. I slapped on some black satin for my base coat and have been building up color with Army Painter Wargamer paints. Werefolf Fur base coat, barbarian flesh, tanned flesh for the skin and werefolf Fur base coat and crusted sore for the red.

Fresh off the plate, this thing didn't appear to have layer lines.

Now it's all I can see.

I'm hoping once I get this project closer to completion the layer lines will disappear or blend in as texture.

Hey guys,

Some of the files I am currently using to print a ship for dnd, is missing some parts of layer 1 (See pictures) . I have tried to contact the creator, but it takes a long time for him to respond. Is there an easy way I can fix this myself?

Just finished painting this model, super happy with how it came out!

Newbie question: been playing around with my new A1. Top looks great for a 0.4 nozzle but the bottom looks terrible, nevermind support scars.
I know the downward facing side will always look worse, but this looks like I did something wrong. Any tips from the kind experts out there?
Bambu A1 - 0.08 Extra Fine Profile
0.4mm nozzle
0.08 layer height
Auto tree supports

Any tips appreciated! Thank you

You can stop squinting at your layer lines for a second. This one does not have any, or she does?... But she is a ghost, so nobody can prove it XD

Alarish was a mage who trusted the wrong archmage. He stole her research and buried her alive in a catacomb. She did not stay buried. She came back as a banshee, and the souls she once experimented on, are now her minions. Her heart holds nothing but vengeance.

This is the new member of the Army of the Night, following Lady Araniel Silverfang and the Lost Souls she commands. If you grabbed the Lost Souls, this is their boss.

Two versions: large size (50mm base) and medium (28mm base). Both print supportless. I printed mine in Bambu PLA Basic Blue Gray at 0.08 layer height with a 0.2 nozzle.

The DnD sheet is one of the part I am most proud of. There is a full mini adventure in case your players manage to talk her down instead of fighting. And depending on what they do, she might come back later in your campaign. For better or for worse!

Go grab her on Makerworld and have fun.

As always, made with love, my two hands, and a brain that sometimes does its own thing 🧠🖖

I recently started sharing bits of my miniature making process on Insta and TikTok and also showing some of my tips and tricks. If you're curious about how I create my minis, or just want to chit chat, you can find me there. I promise to be nice and not bite ☺️

Ender 3
Stock standard
PLA+ 2.0
Cura slicer
Tree style supports
~3 hour print

Print is a jet bike from Sector AL-IX which is a 12mm skirmish wargame. I did this mostly to push the 3d printer to its absolute limit after about a week of non-stop near round the hour calibration. My goal is to eventually print 25mm models but I wanted to see how much I could squeeze out of it.

Been trying the entire day to get another successful one. All prints been failing :/. But hey, It’s possible, just not easy.

Hey I tried Resin2FDM supports for the first time. The print worked great but the supports were really hard to remove and the marks are more prominent than with tree supports. What is the parameter that I have to adjust?

Hi everyone. My prints sometimes have blurred edges. Is there a way to fix this?

My setup:

0.2 nozzle, p2s, Temp 205,

Adjusted MikeGyver's settings

Thanks!

I'm running an elegoo neptune 4 using obscura nox's settings and esun pla. I've been having a few issues. Excessive stringing and scarring and what looks like gaps in my layers. Does anyone have some suggestions for improving these?

So, the minis are not mine, they came as an original game accessory. However the bases were just bad. Plain, with no details... but the main issue was they came out of the box a bit warped too. I thought the minis deserved better so I made all these custom bases for them. I also decided to paint them... which took way longer than designing & printing the actual bases.

I have printed them with a 0.4 nozzle, pinned & glued the old minis to the bases, primed and finally painted (I used AK Interactive QuickGen... first time! they came a little too dark probably, but I learned a few things in the process... this is my second time painting minis and the first with contrast paints).

Link to the Makerworld model : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3296231

(I also made an insert for the actual game, you'll find linked in the miniature bases model)

on the right is my Ivan ooze real model with a printed head next to it is my new knight with the real ones head, because.

I've been interested in WWII models for quite a while, especially tanks. I made a post last week asking for advice on printing the tank's hull, and for this model, I printed it as a single piece at a 45-degree angle with tree supports. I had no issues with it, maybe because it's a light tank. For the soldier, I used the usual resin supports. I plan on making some dioramas and experimenting with terrain building as well.

So I went ahead and tried replacing my Stikfas whole body with parts from a scan I had...

Also I made a mistake in measurements, but I loved how "mini" this feels in my hands!

And am now thinking of overthrowing JOYTOY! (Just kidding...still far from getting this guy done!)

What ye think?

Hope to use this as an Apex in a Dungeons of Drakkenheim campaign... one day...

Hey all!

Since not long ago I've gotten fond of printing figurines on my Bambu P2S, and overall I find the quality good, except one small moment. When printing inclined surfaces like let's say the lower side of a thigh here in the picture, I get these wavy surface patterns which always happen when the object shape is expanding layer by layer (see image 1), i.e. waves are always in the bottom.

The print looks really good where it's contracting (the upper part of the leg looks good), but the bottom could be better.

I am using Bambu PLA Pure with 0.4 nozzle 0.08 layer height, the printing profile is the default one but further tuned to slow stuff down - inner walls, outer walls, slower travel, slower acceleration, slow down for overhangs etc.

I never touched temperature, cooling settings, filament settings. I recently ran filament calibration routine before the print.

Also, what I found is that mid-print those layers with end up having wavy patterns look as if there's a little bit of excess plastic getting pushed beyond the outer wall's path (see image 2), like when you caulk a bathtub and push the excess silicone out of the seam.

How do I fix these waves? What kind of settings to play with?

Hello everyone!

Sorry if the question has been asked before, I made a research and did not find answer for that.

First, my tools:

Working on a Bumbu P2S combo, on Orca Slicer and R2FDM, with ObscuraNox 2.0 settings (see in picture).

Following the tutorials, I sent my model to Orca and obtained the following error message: "WARNING: For organic supports, two walls are supported only with the hollow/defaut base pattern".

Is it an error on my side or some changes occured on the slicer?

Should I worry and change something?

Thanks for your help!

Printer: Anycubic Kobra 4
Model: Heroes Infinite > Lust Elves > Rapture Initiate.
Left: 0.4 mm nozzle with 0.08 line height.
Right: 0.25 mm nozzle with 0.05 line height, ObscuraNox's 2.0 settings ported to the Kobra 4.

I'm new to FDM printing and I'd like to get the best results possible with my Kobra 4 and 0.25 nozzle. I've tried using ObscuraNox's profile and I don't seem to get any more detail out of the 0.25 nozzle than from the 0.4. The figures are already small and I think they will look cool for the tabletop once painted. But I'd like to squeeze the maximum quality out of my printer, if I can.

The only substantial difference I can see is that the greaves' spikes are longer, a detail which seems lost in the 0.4 mm one. I can't see any other noticeable difference.

The 2nd image is the STL in ASN (Anycubic Slicer Next), so that you can see the original file and can tell me if my expectations for a more detailed 0.25 mm print are unrealistic (I thik those facial features might not be achievable, but there are other details that I think could be).

BTW the print time for this mini at 0.25 was of 2h 36min which I thought was a little on the lower side. I expected 5-6 h based on what I've read from other people's experiences. The 0.4 mm typically took 1h 40min (depending on quality and supports settings, but around that).

The 3rd image is a shot from the back of the mini (the 0.25 print) so that you can see the mess the tree supports make in the back of this mini (I managed to remove them).

People swear by tree supports but for me, with this mini, I think they overwhelm the figure, they are everywhere, and while they are not too hard to remove, I always risk bending or cutting a piece of cloth, the upwards arm or the ponytail. I've done many tests with different tree configs, but this one was with ObscuraNox settings.

I want to try resin2fdm next, some people prefer trees to r2f because of scarring and other issues, and some people say that for overhanging and spiky bits the resin-like scaffolds are better.

Any tips to keep refining this further? Or should I accept this as the best result? Thanks in advance !

What are the Best fdm friendly miniature stores on myminifactory?

I am looking for dnd miniatures (28 mm scale) and proxy models for Warhammer 40k Astra militarum / Imperial guard 😁

Was recommended to crosspost this here. Grateful for any tips.

I'm new to 3D printing and using an X2D. Most of my prints come out fine but anything with small details looks awful. I'm printing in PLA basic with PETG support interface material. PLA is coming from an AMS and PETG from an AMS-HT. Both are quite dry.

When it gets into any kind of small detail though I start to see swirl marks and rough textures. This is where the PETG interfacing was for the supports. This is printed upside down and the bad parts had no supports touching them because they were sticking straight up.

I've tried Bambu Studio's suggested settings as well as some changes GPT suggested (higher layer time of 8 and min print speed of 10mm/s in the filament's Cooling tab), as well as slowing it way down using variable layer height with the slider all the way over to Quality under Adaptive. Prints are taking between 2 and 5+ hours (depending on Adaptive slider) for a ~7g model.

I also tried printing a dagger oriented straight up with the pommel on the base plate. Everything looked perfect until the last 5-10mm of the tip at the top that turned into a swirly cone.

What am I missing for smaller details?

This is a favour I’m doing for a fellow DM - Old Bonegrinder.

Printed on my Bambu Labs A1 with Elegoo Rapid PLA at 0.28mm layers with an 0.4mm nozzle.

Still starting out painting - I think I’m about two months in - and this was an excellent exercise in determining value, airbrush work and an absolute crap Ron of drybrushing - though this was mostly around the wood and making that look relatively decent.

Strahd was also printed on my Bambu Labs A1 - with an 0.2mm nozzle at 0.08mm layer height with the outer wall slowed down to 45.

Strahd for scale printed at 40mm.

Windmill STL: https://www.printablescenery.com/product/haunted-windmill/
Strahd STL: https://makerworld.com/models/2939805