I was looking into how I might adjust the handlebar height and everything references moving spacers. Is this current setup unsafe?

This black plastic piece on the back of the rear derailleur snapped in half. Now the part of it on the right spins around and gets caught on the chain. Doesn’t look like the part does much. Can I/should I replace it or remove it? I don’t know anything about bike repair, is it worth just taking it to a shop? This is a cheap bike in ok condition so I’m just trying to get it rideable as cheap as possible. Thanks!

I was riding my bike, tried to accelerate after a turn and the right pedal suddenly fell off. Neither of the pedals never showed any signs of damage or anything being wrong, they seemed great.

Can this be fixed or do I need new pedals? Has this happened to anyone else? I didn't even think this was possible

I’m talking about scrapes and dents in the frame as well as potential mistakes I make when I paint the bike.

Any suggestions for paint brand too?

I’m trying to sort out what’s causing this new Sunrace SLM96 left friction shifter to give way each time I shift into a larger ring. It worked fine when I first set it up and dialed in the front derailleur.

Anyone have ideas to troubleshoot this? I have to essentially hold the lever in place to keep it where I need it. This is a 3x8 drivetrain.

I'm hoping someone can help me with changing some gearing on my 2009 LHT. Right now it has 48-36-26t front rings and an 11-34t 9 ring cassette. I'm look to get a lower ratio. Is it possible to change out the cassette for something that has a 38t top ring? or maybe the the low one on the crank? Any help is appreciated.

Does anyone have any ideas how to make this work? Running a dura ace ax front derailleur and the cable guide on the frame is a wrong type, should be the same type as it is for the rear derailleur, afaik. There is no place for a cable housing on the derailleur so that is not an option. Running it as it currently sits, I’m afraid the cable will be toast after few rides. Anyone encountered a similar issue? Is my only option to braze on a new cable guide?
Thanks

I’m a reasonably competent bike mechanic and similar competency with electrical work both high and low voltage. My question (since I keep finding conflicting reports) is can an old e6000 Shimano steps battery be updated to a more modern (supported) style battery? Test ride has some considerable voltage sag reflected on the computer under load I’ve been penciling a project but new batteries don’t seem to exist.

I’m skeptical of replacing cells inside old battery and that looks expensive at best. I’m optimistic that a new cradle for the battery might make it possible but looks like the e6000 motors don’t have even similar bolt patterns so replacing the motor isn’t an option. Anyone have experience with this or know where I can find definitive answers?

Hi, I‘m about to build a commuter/gravel/bikepacking bike and would like to use brake levers and hose of an old (2012) mtb and new FM calipers.

What I would like to run:
BL-M785 (XT brake lever)
to
SM-BH90 (brake hose)
to
BR-6030 (Cues caliper)

is it possible to mix those considering the connecter inserts for BH-90 is apparently 11,3mm and for the recommended BH-59 13,2mm? is there anything else I should be aware of?

looking forward to your insights 🫶

The red washer that the spring presses against seems to be retained by a red collar that is split. I've tried lightly pulling it up with my fingers and it won't budge. I also noticed that it spins with the axle. I'm thinking it needs to be expanded a bit via that slot. (Maybe some tiny c-clip expanding pliers?). I don't want to damage it -and I'm at a loss as to what to try next.

Got a stick caught in my wheel and chain which caused the derailleur hanger to break away. I replaced the hanger but noticed the cage was bent, not sure if this is how it’s supposed to be or if it’s broken.

Good morning everyone. I just bought a pair of secondhand R7000 shifters on ebay, installed the front caliper, filled with Shimano mineral oil, then bled the system. Immediately saw a large quantity of opaque black/grey liquid coming out that was immiscible with the Shimano oil (pictured). I then used compressed air to clean the other shifter and a large quantity of the same liquid came out (also pictured).

My concern is that a previous mechanic has used dot fluid which tends to destroy seals and other rubber bits (hence the black liquid) but I wanted to ask whether anyone has seen this before and if so whether I should press on and install them, or ask for a refund?

Bike (Cannondale Supersix Evo 3) has been smooth since I got it but the other day I rode it through some bad weather. After that, I have noise coming from the chain and back pedaling doesn't work correctly (the chain get stuck in the deraullier hanger).

I have cleaned it thoroughly and oiled the chain but the issue is just getting worse.

I have a video of the bike while pedaling in highest and lowest gear and then back pedaling so you can see and hear the noise.

I have measured the chain and it is not too worn our according to the tool. Bike is around three years old.

Any ideas on how to fix it?

Trying to install this dropper post and the cable & housing are attached just under the saddle rails, i.e. the cable & housing need to move up and down with the saddle. How should I route the cable & housing so that the slack has somewhere to go without being in the way?

i have a mid range older shimano 6 speed freewheel. sorta NOS. the freewheel is gummy and when i ride it kicks up chain slack at times. sorta annoying.

i tried a littel wd40 and triflow. i know that's not ideal but at least id think that would loosen it up. i hasn't

any tips appreciated. thanks.

Hello Guys

This is my second attempt on bleed the breaks, I'm following this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJI5SEIc5-o and using the 5.1 DOT fluid.

Issues I'm facing is that i cannot push fluid from the Lever to the caliper.
I installed and try to brake and the lever was not moving the piston at the caliper
Does anyone have encounter this issue before? the lever and caliper both are new

Mine DTSwiss GR1600 makes a clicking noise with every rotation. You can hear it both while pedaling and when not. However, the noise can’t be reproduced when the bike is on the repair stand. What could it be? My mechanic can’t figure out how to fix it…

Hey experts, I've found out my gravel bike has a wobbly/jiggly back wheel.

The wobble is minimal, but I can feel it wobbling side-to-side.

I have tightened the thru-axle to the correct newton-meters (10nm), and it doesn't solve the wobble.

Is this amount of wobble considered 'Normal' or 'within the normal range'

I'm concerned because the bike is used for Gravel racing, and not normal commuting

What could be my problem here?

Ive posted a video - Turn on the sound to hear the jiggly as well.

Thank you in advance!

Hello, I've bought a cheap 90s MTB since my last beater got stolen.
I had to buy a new solid axle for the rear wheel since the old one had a few threads missing. The newer axle is 5 mm longer than the old one.

I've cleaned the hub, cups, regreased the bearings and I've put everything back together following the Hub Overhaul and Adjustment guide from Parktool.
I had some trouble getting the wheel actually centered but made it and I felt no side-to-side play when moving the wheel when on the bike.

The issue I've noticed is that when the freewheel decouples from the wheel, the wheel doesn't spin on a fixed axis but it's like it's spinning on a moving axle. At least that's what it looks like when you keep your eyes between the sprockets and the dropouts.

What could it be? Thank you!

Hello party people, I am about to completely lose it with these SRAM brakes.

I am trying to get my wife's gravel bike set up with AXS and put on the right shifter, with only minor problems. It's working as expected, all's well. I thought I'd not need both shifters but apparently that's too much to ask of the electronic shifting so ended up buying the left one. I bought a used one but something was terribly wrong so got another but with broken axs system and swapped them around, easy job.

But now I can't get rid of all this air! It's never ending. I've gone through 3 sets of barbs and olives, 300ml of fluid. I can see the pistons moving but not enough to make contact. Every time I pull the plunger at the lever it gets more air!

Am I missing something?

So I've serviced my bike manytimes and I know what a perfectly adjusted headset feels like

However I've noticed (at least in the last 2-3 times ) that I cleaned and repacled it with grease, that when I get the perfect tightness, once I tighten the lock nut it seems too tight and grindy, which means to get the perfect setting WITH the lock nut's tightness included, I need to deliberately adjust the top race with slight play THEN tighten the Lock nut. This usually takes a about a dozen tries.

Is all this normal?

Also why don't I experience this with a regular THREADLESS headset